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Posts posted by phoenixdownita
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I was in the EU region up until 2000 or whereabouts, in the 80s I had access to an SC-3000, then a C64, a ZX-spectrum, an 800-xl and an MSX.
The only stable duo I kept around were the C64 and the MSX (in my case a Philips VG8020).
The C64 BASIC is bad for everything related to graphics and sound, yes you can peek/poke directly the HW but it takes a whole lot of energy to get something going, in that regard I did use Simon's BASIC and loved it exactly because it made sound and graphics accessible.
BASIC 3.5 on a C16/Plus-4 is also decent but I would not recommend either of those, BASIC 7.0 on C128 is yet another step up but even that is not something I'd recommend due to the scarcity of native SW you'll end up using it as a C64 anyway.
On the MSX camp the BASIC is very capable wrt sound ( https://www.msx.org/wiki/SOUND ) and graphics ( https://www.msx.org/wiki/DRAW ) and you can put it to good use, Konami games are very good on the platform but even in Europe only some countries had a good coverage ...
I don't have much memories around the stock BASIC on the 800xl (I do remember having to fiddle with XIO from time to time but that's about it, I used to borrow a friend's one occasionally).
I didn't like the ZX Spectrum auto-complete setup, very very unsettling to me.
I've never seen a TI99/4a or a CoCo in my life (even if I heard of the Dragon32/64) so I won't comment on that. CPC464 and 664 were available but not very successful in my country so no comment on those either.
And I always considered the Apple II too expensive back in the days to even care it existed.
Suggesting the MC-10 is borderline criminal, so depending on where you are located and what you really care about wrt BASIC then Apple II, C64, MSX and likely Atari 800xl all should be decent machines (some with the help of "extended" BASIC as it may be).
Given they all have decent emulators (even online https://virtualconsoles.com/online-emulators/ and https://webmsx.org/ but there's more) take them for a spin without real HW and see what you like/don't like.Depending on what you want to be doing in BASIC, you may get away with very little.
BASIC per se (excluding Audio/Video support) is pretty barebone, most audio/video and even peripheral support is pretty custom to each and every home computer anyway ... but I can tell you it is nice to have sound/graphics support just so you can draw circles, squares, fill an area, play a bang etc...etc...
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TF360 (and indirectly TF1260) so close to completion ... people already testing them with LC060 (no FPU but other than Amiga Quake you'll be fine and it's way way way cheaper https://www.exxoshost.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=75&t=3277 ) and then "big Polish mess" ... stop to all Terrible Fire development (casus belli over the TF536 project being copied as an act of spite against Stephen for no freaking good reason as the board was meant to become open source in the coming months).
What a sad state of affairs:
https://www.exxoshost.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=3359
Why do the CD32 users have to pay for some Polish dude misbehaving!?! Unfair.
At the same time I can understand TF frustration ... he's been a genius in his own right when it comes to this class of accelerators and his boards are very very affordable and work well (as I said above I have both a TF328 and a TF330 ... and was recently awaiting on a TF360 [price was unannounced so who knows ... but his whole mantra was around affordability with quality to boot]).
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4 hours ago, Jaguar 2000 said:....
In summary the Jaguar's controller is the best i ever used and held during the 90s and for early 90s video game standard, it was far superior in build quality than all others. The overlays were actually surprisingly good- glossy plastic with raised ridges- it's like a raised bubble that is form fitted to the key pad buttons so you can feel around to know which number button is which.
...
All in all, the build quality of the Jaguar is superior to the competition.I understand that's your opinion, but in the 90s there were better controllers, I just love the JP Saturn controller (or US ver2 if you prefer), even the PS1 controller ain't bad at all (and I prefer it to the Jag any day of the week and twice on weekends) if you don't need to play fighting games a-la Street Fighter.
I think the lack of shoulder buttons is a big miss on the jag std pads and the "phone-pad" is just way way overrated (as it always has been, it didn't work that well for either colecovision, intellivision or the 5200, why would Atari bring it back is beyond me ...).
The SNES controller and the Genny 6 buttons controller are not bad either and likely I can use either on preference than the Jag one ... so told I have not had time to try the repro "Pro ctrl" I bought more than 1Y ago, I've been told those are better (shoulder buttons, 6 face buttons, better pad ... ) but still you can pray my JP Saturn controller out of my dead hands.
And speaking about controllers, is there a reason why the 6 face buttons have all but disappeared? I can see myself just fine with 4 shoulder buttons, 6 face buttons, dpad, dual analog (asymmetric like XB or symmetric like PS) and a couple more "mid buttons" for start/pause etc... from time to time I see 6 face buttons controllers being re-offered (usually around a new installment of Street Fighter) ... why not have 6 face buttons being the norm? (I can deal with punch and kick having low/mid/high buttons way way more than the nonsense of analog "pressure sensitive" face buttons).
On the plus side I think I hate the Dreamcast and N64 controllers more than the Jag ones, so there's that!
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I think we can take Konami games as examples of TMS9918 games that do look colorful also on the SG-1000
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_aenXkD1V-M
So it can be done and Konami did it a lot (check their MSX production all on TMS9918/9928 ... it's really really pretty imho).
As to why not many games on the actual SG1000 went that route I do not know, "the castle" has a very colorful main character on SG-1000 https://www.mobygames.com/game/sg-1000/castle/screenshots/gameShotId,910372/
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12 hours ago, carlsson said:How much conceptually does this design share with the Jaguar? I mean if the Panther was a 32-bit test bed for an architecture, not fully specified with the intent for commercial video games, and then redesigned with a bigger capacity for real life applications. On the other hand, if that was the intentions, Atari either were fooled or imagined magical things would be possible, just like people had crammed out far more of the 2600 (which was not under Tramiel's claim of fame, but they still sold it) than originally expected.
The whole Panther ObjectProcessor with single scanline buffer (well 2) that goes thru a theoretically long list of Objects as long as it can traverse it in the time of a single scanline is identical to the Jag ObjectProcessor behavior but I believe that setup may not be original to Panther per se either.
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1 hour ago, Yakumo1975 said:One of the pioneering games of it's time is covered on this week's Battle of the Ports.
....
Another World may not have started on the PC, Wikipedia seems to have it on the Amiga/AtariST and that matches my memories as well.
Amiga/ST release seems to precede the DOS version, even MobyGames https://www.mobygames.com/game/out-of-this-world states it was an Amiga/ST first release.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Another_World_(video_game) has quite some details on the development process on a mix of Amiga/ST.
EDIT: The YT comments seem to also have caught up on that.
EDIT2: it seems in response to one comment you imply PC meaning as non-console vs PC-DOS but then again Amiga/ST versions are not ports but the original and the DOS version the port. Confusing. You state of the Amiga version "it was ported on the 16bits home computers, it looks just as good as the PC original" ... I am afraid you'll have to rework that video and the narrative about it.
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20 hours ago, Steven Pendleton said:CD-R definitely helps it, I think. I do generally prefer real games for all systems, but there are a few cases where I can definitely see a benefit to CD-Rs and ROM carts, and the Marty is one of them for sure, judging by those ebay prices. I have Windows 10, though, so no floppies for me. I know it's possible to go back to 7, but then I'm not sure if I can get back to 10 from 7 for free after reverting. I should do some more research, if only to satisfy my own curiosity!
Floppy Mode 3 is a Japan only thing (or Japan mostly, not sure it got out of there) so you may find alternatives to write 'em floppies given your location (or https://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?topic=6451.0 ).
In the west I had to scavenge a little to find an USB mode 3 floppy and hope the motherboard would just work with it (unsure if via USB that's even a thing but hey) ... so I used a very old Tecra9000 with Win7 on it to handle the transfer (that was a few years ago).
I am not sure there's anything that requires a boot floppy that I would actually miss, there's one or two LucasArt games that require a "saving" floppy but that can be formatted directly on the Marty via the menu.
It's not a bad "exotic" but I'd put it with the ilk of Amiga CD32, Jaguar and a few others that are really niche, it being the first CD based console preceding the CD32 by a few months is its claim to fame ... released in 1993 it beat Windows 95 a few years from being bootable from CD (not sure if 95osr2 did support it even or just win98 ... so ahead of its time ... well the CD32 booted too so ... what do I know!?)
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Wrt 80186 wikipedia seems alright:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intel_80186
And to be clear the 80186 is an 8086 (with a few added instructions) + peripherals in the same package (like microcontrollers). So it can run 8086 machine code, but it is not a "PC-DOS" compatible replacement because of those very same integrated peripherals.
If you were to write 8086 code that did not use any peripheral, say to compute a math formula all from/to memory, as long as the code is written "PC relative" (relocatable) it would run unchanged on the 80186. -
On 9/29/2020 at 8:19 AM, mr_me said:https://web.archive.org/web/20031207084119/http://www.atari-explorer.com/Panther-Spec.htm
Here are the panther specifications. Similar to the 7800 it is object/sprite based. The key is how many objects can it display on a scanline without overloading the system. There's some comments about this in the panther topic in the prototypes section.
I think this one got lost in translations and thanks for the link (linking directly to the inner GIF here)
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14 hours ago, Steven Pendleton said:....
Anyway, yeah, I'm not going to buy that Marty. It's an interesting system, but not worth it for the amount of cash they want for it and considering its library.
Aside from the floppies, the Marty gladly plays CD-R, and with a USB floppy that supports mode3, Windows7 and DiskImage v1.3b you can write them yourself:
format a: /a:1024 /t:77 /n:8 /u or format a: /fs:fat /v: /a:1024 /t:77 /n:8 /y After you have formated the 3.5 floppy disk, you can write back disk images using DiskImage 13b Utility: DiskImage v1.3b These are the correct settings: FD mode option should be “1.25M”. Click on “HD?FD(125)” button to browse for *.xdf, *.dim or *.hdm files. If you are using Windows Vista/7, use Windows XP mode for compatibility mode
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6 hours ago, carlsson said:I realize we're quickly getting off-topic, but does that mean there practically has been no income raises in the past ~30 years, or do income and prices increase on their own, without reflecting the inflation? I tried to find a price index based calculator but all I could find was one based on the inflation which suggested that in Yen things would almost cost the same now as 30 years ago.
https://www.forbes.com/sites/francescoppola/2018/07/31/japans-lowflation-problem/#66ac05e03d64
"In ordinary English, this means that when prices start to rise, Mrs. Watanabe cuts spending. So firms don’t raise prices, and because they don’t want to squeeze their slim profit margins, they don’t raise wages either. Mrs. Watanabe’s income remains stagnant, so she remains hyper-sensitive to price rises. It’s a demand-deficient feedback loop that traps inflation on the floor. "So it appears indeed everything stagnated for a very long time.
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They mated:
Scart goes in, HDMI comes out, the bottom of the 2 plastic enclosures are perfectly aligned, they thought this one through!!!
I ordered an Amiga Scart cable for my CD32, let's see how this turns out.My other consoles + Scart cables are a little harder to reach due to covid wfh arrangements, they were in tupperware that now forms the "legs" of my "desk" (5 per side) .... I really want 2020 to end.
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7 hours ago, Steven Pendleton said:Well, this is supposedly using the World Bank as the source, and I can't think of a better one than that.
https://www.macrotrends.net/countries/JPN/japan/inflation-rate-cpi
Anyway, yeah, I'm not going to buy that Marty. It's an interesting system, but not worth it for the amount of cash they want for it and considering its library.
Yeah Japan had periods of deflation ... crazy as when that happens there's no rush to buy stuff as "tomorrow it will be cheaper"!
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C'mon AtGames, my coveted Namco Arcade Blast unit has no sound on my new Samsung TV.
The Samsung TV explicitly states audio over HDMI has to be PCM and not bitstream, so I wonder if that's the issue or maybe just an out-of-spec signal in the audio dept .... at any rate the unit (WD3305) is discontinued.
On other news it works on 2 much older TV sets I have so if I really really want to play I still can .... such a pity as I wanted my 4Y son to get a feeling for these games on the "big TV" in the house ... thankfully I bought it new at 50% discount at FredMeyer so I don't feel too bad, there's enough people complaining of the same audio issues to believe it is indeed a fault of these units.
I guess to play the games I'd have to resort to the Namco Connect and Play unit (or the even older Jakks units), pity really as this one had PacMania and SkyKid which are not in any earlier units and a nice native HDMI video signal ... sigh!
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Received my RGB2COMP from RetroTink and the RCA females line up perfectly, so ordered 5 RCA M-M coupler for 6US$ to "mate" it with the 2X-M and "add" Scart support to it ... but yeah at a combined price of 200US$ is not cheap.
Hopefully it works out well.
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8 hours ago, OldSchoolRetroGamer said:Hey after 18 pages of madness and bickering back and forth I was wondering about something. How powerful was the cancelled Atari Panther compared to the Atari ST/Amiga? 🤔
I'm sure it would have beat them, if it didn't there would have been no reason to its existence.
Wrt 3D of that era I believe we forget how painful it was, I recently got the CD32 bug back so I bought a TF328 (pretty much doubles the speed of the system thanks to fast RAM) and then a TF330 (68030 @50Mhz and even faster RAM, making it about 7x faster than a stock CD32 when not dealing with the coprocessors) and some of those CD32/A1200 3D games move around better but honestly it wasn't until 68040 or actually 68060 that the Amigas could try to play Quake (as it is FP heavy).
For reference Doom on an an accelerated A1200 (68030 @50Mhz) seems to be around 11FPS
Quake on an A1200 with a 68060 @66Mhz delivers about 14 FPS:(the author of the video has it in the comments:
anouk33
1 year ago
14fps. timedemo1)
Yes the Amigas eventually were held back by their custom chipset (AGA/ECS/OCS they were slow) but it helps putting things in perspective. RTG graphics changed that but it got expensive, and too late.
So the Panther even with a 68020 would not have been a monster just because of it, but it should have been capable of beating A500/AtariST and likely the stock A1200 (just don't make the mistake to have a unified bus or in the case of the CD32/A1200 to ship with 0 dedicated mem to CPU).On a CD32 to see the effects of fastmem and/or [email protected] check this:
everything is much smoother but even an [email protected] is not cutting the mustard in 3D, one really needs a much faster gfx subsystem and some 3D offloading to the hardware.
In that regard what was achieved by the Jag is actually very good, its Doom port is "silently fantastic" imho, much better than the above. I believe a Jag with just Tom and a more traditional audio subsystem (take something like the Sega Genesis) would have run circles around Amiga/AtariST (we have evidence of that in the Acorn Archimedes already).
Note a Sega 32X already runs in circles around those (the dual SH-2 setup being no slouch).
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What are we talking about here?
Was Atari trying to sabotage its own consoles? Was it just trying to stay afloat?
Had my grandmother carried a pair made her my grandfather?
What's the matter with you?
Once you no longer know what the thread is about and just try to win an argument, any argument, then you know you just lost a chance to stay silent, I know as I am usually affected by the same illness ... I call it "but-I-will-get-a-point"-ities ...
as one comedian put it ... "next time you have a thought ...... let it go!"
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I have one that needs sprite ram repair.
Before it broke (which was conveniently once I found a buyer, sigh!) it run fine and for LucasArt games + a few Psygnosys games and a bunch of arcade ports it's reasonable. I steered away from any jap-only games as I can't speak the language.
The floppy drive belt melts so you need a repair on that ... I think I only had 3 or 4 games that required a floppy disk one way or another, one or two just to boot, the others to be able to make progress ... for those you'd need a floppy that can support MODE3 and an OS that can handle it, Windows 7 was the last of Microsoft OSs whose format.exe utility allowed you to format those floppy properly, not sure where Linux is at these days, I believe you need support from the motherboard BIOS as well.
It's not a bad machine, not an outstanding machine either, no 3D capabilities to speak of, in 2D it can hold its own but it is inferior to a Sharp X68000 but "better" than the contemporary Amiga CD32, it has a 386SX so it is what it is.
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Cute 2X Mini ... for what I had to do it could have been a better option for me but given I bought a 2X-M ...
I just realized I really have no vintage consoles (anything pre Dreamcast) with Component cables and neither I want to buy such cables (they are not exactly cheap) but I do have Scart cables for a bunch of them (SMS, Genesis, Saturn, AES, NGCD, Jaguar and can easily find it even for PS2 but no need as I do have component cables for it, unfortunately my GC has no digital-out but SVideo works great on it).
In light of so many Scart enabled consoles I was torn between the RetroTink-2X Scart and a cheaper RetroTink RGB2Comp so I went for the second given I already have a RetroTink-2X-Multi (and the latest firmware enables pseudo-444 on 480p as well as pass-thru 720p and somewhat a 1080i ["ish" https://www.retrotink.com/post/retrotink-2x-pro-multiformat-firmware-page ] to really cover all component cable consoles I have from PS2, to XBOX to Wii).
With a little bit of luck I may be able to sit the RGB2Comp just in front of the 2X-M, from the pictures it appears the connectors are reversed on purpose (meaning RLYPbPr on 2X-M match PrPbYLR on RGB2Comp) and if the holes line up I can just use cheap male RCA couplers and "mate" the 2 RetroTink in an unholy orgy of retrogoodness, at worst instead I need a 5 RCA cable between the 2 ... we shall see.

I am not sure it was the right choice yet, at 30US$ more the RetroTink-2X Scart seems a solid solution for Scart enabled consoles, at the same time if it works I may get the best of both worlds and save me 30US$.
I find it hard to understand why the RetroTink-2X Pro or 2X-M don't have direct support for Scart .... component cables for old consoles are actually much rarer than Scart due to EU that mandated it over there! Anyways .... at 200US$ total for 2X-M + RGB2Comp it ain't exactly cheap!!!
Wrt to the 2X-mini it may work wonders for the plug-n-play novelties of yesteryears that were composite through and through ... if one likes them that is, I have a small collection around (about 7 or 8 of them total) and they do work fine on the 2X-M, but at basically half the price the 2X-mini seems to be the perfect choice for most composite/SVideo consoles (the site does call out Genesis and some PSOne as having non-std composite and can make the RetroTink-2X take a hike with them so caveat emptor).
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RetroTink Pro M arrived and it is good with a little bad (no fault of the RetroTink).
As I said above I have a Samsung TU700D 43" just bought that only supports HDMI.
I only had time to test Jakks Pacific, Radica, Namco-Bandai, Capcom (PAL) and a couple more of assorted plug-n-play units via composite (reason I bought it was a "better handling of composite" compared to the Pro) ... it works but I figured out those plug-n-play are not 240p at all, they are 480i so it's somewhat neither there nor here. Unsure if the Pro in Blocky mode would look any better on those. And the Pro M docs state "better handling of composite 240p" no mention of any better handling of 480i.
Now for the fun part, the Samsung TU700D has a game mode that according to the doc cuts latency from about 30msec to 10msec or so .... and the result when playing 1080p content (but I suspect also 720p) looks good .... now onto 480p RetroTink Pro M .... epic fail, the middle of the screen is a little mess of flashy blocks and duplicated B&W ("ghosts") images .... playing Pacman like that was no fun ... it took me a while to detect it was the game mode of the TV as I thought I got a faulty RetroTink instead ... sometimes the TV "latches" properly and those artifacts disappear (I thought the game mode is supposed to remove all that processing crap but apparently something is still being done ... poorly) but they will reappear.
Once game mode is disabled I also have to disable "Signal Plus" or whatever magic the TV thinks it's doing because the image gets too blurry/fake/soft ... but I can disable some of it so it's alright I guess.
As I was tinkering with the RetroTink I noticed this TV gladly accepts 480i pass thru over HDMI (it's actually in the manual too) ... it looks OK as far as I can tell but the game mode processes it the same messy way .... unfortunately the COVID wfh situation had my actual 240p consoles in tupperware that is not immediately reachable to me for testing how the RetroTink Pro M handles actual honest-to-god 240p via composite and via S-Video.
None of my pre-PS2 consoles have mods or cables supporting component output but a good chunk have SCART cables and almost all of them SVideo (mods or cables) .... wish the 2M supported SCART too but ehhh they do sell the RetroTink SCART which just for handling fast 240p<->480i transitions in Saturn games may be worthy, that is a very sore point for the Framemeister, granted I can test the Pro-M against the Saturn SVideo output and see if that's good enough (some consoles do really have nice and clean SVideo).
So to conclude, it works over composite, I wish there was a "blocky" mode like the Pro (in addition to the bilinear filtering) ... I will update if/when I get to test real 240p old-school content ...
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Had to throw the old 42" plasma flat TV down the drain after 14Y of service, it had 2 HDMI, 1 YPbPr, 1 mixed YPbPr/RGB+HV (with support for sync-on-green ... I used it for the PS2-Linux), 2 SVideo and 2 composite inputs. The old sucker still worked ... sometimes but it was getting hard to have it turn on (such and such blinking led this and that about the plasma display ... aka it was on it's last leg).
Albeit only 720p (and 1080i but c'mon) it had an array of inputs for my old consoles now unmatched.
I bought a modern Samsung TU700D (43" LCD, 4K) and it only has 2 HDMI, no component, no SVideo, no composite.
So I decided to buy a RetroTink 2X-M to recover some of those inputs in the hope it'll work well.
I am also looking at a RetroTink 2X-SCART (I do have the cables for many of my old consoles so why not?) and eventually the RetroTink 2X-mini (I don't think I care about scanlines and at 70 USD it seems cheap enough to be in "impulse buy" territory).
Note that I do have a Framemeister already if I want to use it (and an adapter with an LM 1881 that helps a lot with a few pesky consoles I have like my SMS and my AES ... for some reason they are hard to sync on without it).
I picked the RetroTink 2X-M instead of the 2X-Pro because of the 480p pass thru (I would like to play me some Wii or really progressive GC via Wii as my GC has no digital out) and hoping it will get better as times goes by wrt 2D sources. I expect the 2X-Pro to be better on component input but given none of my consoles pre PS2 have such an input and I don't fancy buying those special cables I hope that SVideo and Composite upscaling looks same/better on the 2X-M than on 2X-Pro. Anyone cares to comment?
Is the RetroTink 2X-SCART overkill? I do have cables for SMS/Genesis/SNES/AES/GX4000/Saturn/Jaguar and to be honest aside slowwwwww transition 240p<->480i in Saturn games (and a few PS1/PS2 games) the Framemeister works just fine. Should I ditch this?
Wrt to RetroTink 2X-Mini I want to use it for the plug-n-play "collection" ... I used not to care too much about quality on those (aka direct TV connect was mostly just fine) but with the total lack of any composite on my new TV I don't have much of a choice ... once more the Framemeister works wrt SVideo and Composite input but not being particularly targeted at those likely the RetroTink 2X-mini may be a better option.
What do you think? Is 3 RetroTink 2X devices too many? Should I just give the Framemeister a chance to shine? Or is the RetroTink 2X-SCART good enough wrt not needing the 2X-mini? (given the 2X-M already shipped I can't really change my mind on that) Does the 2X-SCART even work on composite sources? ( ... yes SCART can carry composite only sources, not sure the RetroTink 2X-SCART has any support for those.)
In general do the RetroTink 2X devices work well over SVideo and composite sources? (I read that the 2X-M has better composite support than the 2X-pro but it's all hearsay).
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It is possible the head miscalibrated:
https://www.famicomdisksystem.com/tutorials/fds-repair-mod/belt-replacement-adjustment/
Side note: on my Twin Famicom there was the copy protection PCB that I simply bypassed by connecting the main PCB directly to the floppy, it was not in all Twin and some had it integrated (so it can't be removed). Not saying it is the cause of your woes but in case.
It looks like an extra small board that sits in between the floppy and the power PCB.
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wrt Kasumi .... who wouldn't love a crotch induced hadouken !!!
But it is what it is.
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OK I'll play along
Zero 5 Jag (1997)
(note it is mostly flat shaded, very sparse use of textures, I can't quite tell if there's any Gourad shading going on)
DarXide 32x (1995)
(yup it stutters and begs for mercy but it is fully textured)
Don't get me wrong the Jag was a step-up compared to MD/SNES, wrt to PS1/Sat thanks but no thanks.
It really would have deserved a better/bigger library but I think even the 3DO was "a little ahead"
NFS 3DO (1994)
and even the 3DO Road Rush "it's a pipe version" (1994) is kind of impressive:
So yeah Zero 5 shows the Jag coulda/woulda/shoulda but just didnta ...
of course the 3DO was way overpriced but with the PS1/Saturn just around the corner (and cheaper than the 3DO) ... the Jag was too little too late.
It could have mopped the floor wrt MD/SNES and also CD32/FM-Towns-Marty ... likely better than "der kludge" MD+32x but ... again too little too late.
Just remember Jag launch price 249US$, PS1 launch price 299US$ .... granted had the likes of Zero5, AVP, SkyHammer come around launch or close to it, the Jag could have put up a fight.
Skyhammer Jag (2000 release):
but then again Stellar Assault SS (1998)
successor of Stellar Assault 32x (1995 release)
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What computer would you recommend for people who are just getting into the hobby of retro computing?
in Classic Computing Discussion
Posted
https://ia802805.us.archive.org/15/items/SimonsBASIC/Simons_BASIC.pdf
it has a CIRCLE command ... yes it's not part of BASIC 2.0 but it's not that you can't find Simons' BASIC easily for C64:
Section 6-10
10 HIRES 0,1 20 CIRCLE 160,100,52,40,1 30 PAUSE 40 NRM RESULT: black circle is drawn in the centre of the screen. After five seconds, the normal screen is displayed.