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relo999

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About relo999

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    Star Raider
  • Birthday 05/09/1993

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    The Nether-lands

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  1. WTB 6507 CPU within Europe, preferably within the Netherlands. Trying to repair my 2600.
  2. Issue found. The CPU is dead. Tried replacing chips again thinking 2 might be dead and this time didn't use the RGB mod to test the image. So put all 3 main chips in the board, and it popped on just fine. Putting back the RIOT still kept it working, and putting back the TIA also kept it working. Only the CPU couldn't be replaced by the original. Might be the RGB mod was faulty or made some other mistake when testing the CPU last time. I also learned my PAL TV can understand SECAM including color. Now I just need to find a replacement CPU.
  3. Also tried reseating all other chips on the pcb, luckily all of them are socketed. But no luck. What I did find is by using my CRT to check for a signal and upping the brightness I do get very faint vertical lines when I power the system.
  4. reset pins are all 5V (well 1 is 4.5V but I guess that's within margin). 5V and ground are connected and the clock signal points all give +-1.5V (don't have a multimeter than can check frequency).
  5. Recently got a SECAM Vader 2600 as I wanted one simply for the weird palette it has. Tried powering it, but I only get a black screen which just tells me it powers on. No bars or anything, just black. Thinking it might be a secam related compatibility issue I RGB modded it, but still the same. (and in hindsight still should have gotten a B/W image if it was a secam related issue) I've run down the common issues, so I've switched the TIA, CPU and Riot with known good ones with the same result, and I have checked the 5V regulator and incoming voltage and all of that is fine. There is also no clear damage to the PCB or components. Any other possible culprits I can check?
  6. Necro bump, seeing as this is the first page you get in google when you search for Gamegear PSU. The yellow tipped megadrive/Genesis model 2 PSU only works on some Gamegears, others use the model 1 PSU (only difference is formfactor and polarity between them). Based on what I know Gamegears with model number HGG-3210 use a model 1 PSU. While the Gamegears with a model number of HGG-2110 use a model 2 PSU. I know there is also a model number 2110-50 which has a different PSU requirement, I believe a model 1 but not 100% sure. Why there is a difference, I don't know. My best guess is either that the 3210 are european and Japanese (As I only got European and japanese GG's and are all that model number) or that it's an early model.
  7. I received my first Vic20 yesterday, I cleaned it a bit and built a AV cable for it. When I booted it, it looked fine although all character looked slightly off. To test the audio I tried typing in a command to give me some sort of sound but halfway through the vic20 froze up on me. After that on every boot I get a pure cyan/blue screen with nothing. What could cause this issue?
  8. relo999

    Dead 2600RGB?

    This was the issue, my scart missed the rgb blanking signal. single 100 ohm resistor between pin 8 and 16 fixed it. I thought, as my can only receive RGB or s video, if I believe the menu, and my CRT only does RGB on Scart (or so I thought) it would automatically select RGB. But I was wrong. Thanks!
  9. relo999

    Dead 2600RGB?

    Recently got a 2600RGB for my PAL 6 switch woody but for the life of me I can't get a picture out of it. Only a very dim black and white "impression" of what should be on screen and audio being just fine. I tried reseating everything, checking my soldering points with a multimeter and double checking every connection but no luck... Anyone knows this issue or how to solve it? Pictures of the install: https://imgur.com/gallery/ak4NWBR
  10. Playing with the chroma dial somehow fixed it... Really weird, but I'll take it...
  11. Been a while since I checked up on this post, gave it small update. If anyone has more up to date information please feel free to share so I can edit it.
  12. Recently got an 2600 (Vader) and gave it an composite mod. That mod seemed to work fine for a few times but after a while gave increasingly more glitches with each power cycle. First blocks in the screen, then the games where effected by the power switch (in combat suddenly the tanks moved), then the image stopped working and just getting a buzzing sound and now I only get a black screen without sound. What could cause this issue?
  13. I'm not going to state I'm a master of memory upgrades, but going by the antonia 4MB configurator it does support the same standards as the U1MB and some more. That said, I think the U1MB is maybe not the best but is the standard due to it's availability. When I looked for the Antonia 2 months or so back I couldn't find it (which is why the first post has a, what seems to be, an outdated listing), meanwhile getting an U1MB is easy and freely available. That said I'm perfectly willing to add a comparison if someone more knowledgeable than me would give the info.
  14. Thanks for your help anyways, I doubt I'd be able to find a way to update the Firmware without you and that ATR file and would probably have taken way longer to try and lower the SIO2SD speed to see if that works. BTW is removing the caps (c77 and C78) worth it like stated here http://sio2sd.gucio.pl/wiki/HighSpeed_en?
  15. Fixed it, needed to disable BASIC again and had to put my SIO2SD on a lower speed. Now it runs everything consistently good.
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