relo999

I'd edit my previous post if I could, anyway I noticed some new symptoms. Monitor 3 has a dark purple background while monitor 2 doesn't. As seen in the pictures, but in real life it's more easily spotted. I've also tried adding a 220uf cap and 75ohm resistor to the chroma and luma out without much notable difference in output quality, however it did make the FMS6400 run cool. Now the weird part. Monitor 2 only shows a picture if the antenna is connected to the monitor and monitor 3 has the exact opposite, it only shows a picture when the antenna isn't connected to the monitor. Monitor 2 is my testing monitor at my soldering station and I apparently didn't ever disconnect the antenna during testing. I only disconnected it because I thought it might be the cause for the interference. Also tried using the mod on a different cassette vision, but got the exact same symptoms.

Could someone help me? I've got the mod kinda working on some monitors. 1 of the 3 shows no image beyond some snow (and is the oldest and not in the photo's), one shows an image but is quite desaturated and shows snow ontop and some what shakey, and one is decent beyond some hue shifting issues and minor noise but is sometimes a bit shakey (newest monitor). The shakeyness is a bit weird as the pixels don't really move but it's like "shadow" of the pixels move a bit, can be seen in the second picture with the ladders. I've also added the 2200uf cap on the power socket but that didn't seem to do anything. The FMS6400 also gets quite hot, I doubt that that's normal.

Bit of a necro-post, sorry for that. But seeing as I have the same issue, and not keen on a stepdown converter, I was looking into this. But instead of replacing the transformer wouldn't it be easier to use an external 15V or 12V PSU and run that into the connector pins for the transformer? Polarity wouldn't matter as it's ran through a rectifier anyway. It would also be cheaper than getting a FD6-16 and much less of a hassle to install to make it look good.

WTB 6507 CPU within Europe, preferably within the Netherlands. Trying to repair my 2600.

Issue found. The CPU is dead. Tried replacing chips again thinking 2 might be dead and this time didn't use the RGB mod to test the image. So put all 3 main chips in the board, and it popped on just fine. Putting back the RIOT still kept it working, and putting back the TIA also kept it working. Only the CPU couldn't be replaced by the original. Might be the RGB mod was faulty or made some other mistake when testing the CPU last time. I also learned my PAL TV can understand SECAM including color. Now I just need to find a replacement CPU.

Also tried reseating all other chips on the pcb, luckily all of them are socketed. But no luck. What I did find is by using my CRT to check for a signal and upping the brightness I do get very faint vertical lines when I power the system.

reset pins are all 5V (well 1 is 4.5V but I guess that's within margin). 5V and ground are connected and the clock signal points all give +-1.5V (don't have a multimeter than can check frequency).

Recently got a SECAM Vader 2600 as I wanted one simply for the weird palette it has. Tried powering it, but I only get a black screen which just tells me it powers on. No bars or anything, just black. Thinking it might be a secam related compatibility issue I RGB modded it, but still the same. (and in hindsight still should have gotten a B/W image if it was a secam related issue) I've run down the common issues, so I've switched the TIA, CPU and Riot with known good ones with the same result, and I have checked the 5V regulator and incoming voltage and all of that is fine. There is also no clear damage to the PCB or components. Any other possible culprits I can check?

Necro bump, seeing as this is the first page you get in google when you search for Gamegear PSU. The yellow tipped megadrive/Genesis model 2 PSU only works on some Gamegears, others use the model 1 PSU (only difference is formfactor and polarity between them). Based on what I know Gamegears with model number HGG-3210 use a model 1 PSU. While the Gamegears with a model number of HGG-2110 use a model 2 PSU. I know there is also a model number 2110-50 which has a different PSU requirement, I believe a model 1 but not 100% sure. Why there is a difference, I don't know. My best guess is either that the 3210 are european and Japanese (As I only got European and japanese GG's and are all that model number) or that it's an early model.

I received my first Vic20 yesterday, I cleaned it a bit and built a AV cable for it. When I booted it, it looked fine although all character looked slightly off. To test the audio I tried typing in a command to give me some sort of sound but halfway through the vic20 froze up on me. After that on every boot I get a pure cyan/blue screen with nothing. What could cause this issue?

This was the issue, my scart missed the rgb blanking signal. single 100 ohm resistor between pin 8 and 16 fixed it. I thought, as my can only receive RGB or s video, if I believe the menu, and my CRT only does RGB on Scart (or so I thought) it would automatically select RGB. But I was wrong. Thanks!

Recently got a 2600RGB for my PAL 6 switch woody but for the life of me I can't get a picture out of it. Only a very dim black and white "impression" of what should be on screen and audio being just fine. I tried reseating everything, checking my soldering points with a multimeter and double checking every connection but no luck... Anyone knows this issue or how to solve it? Pictures of the install: https://imgur.com/gallery/ak4NWBR

Playing with the chroma dial somehow fixed it... Really weird, but I'll take it...

Been a while since I checked up on this post, gave it small update. If anyone has more up to date information please feel free to share so I can edit it.

Recently got an 2600 (Vader) and gave it an composite mod. That mod seemed to work fine for a few times but after a while gave increasingly more glitches with each power cycle. First blocks in the screen, then the games where effected by the power switch (in combat suddenly the tanks moved), then the image stopped working and just getting a buzzing sound and now I only get a black screen without sound. What could cause this issue?

I'm not going to state I'm a master of memory upgrades, but going by the antonia 4MB configurator it does support the same standards as the U1MB and some more. That said, I think the U1MB is maybe not the best but is the standard due to it's availability. When I looked for the Antonia 2 months or so back I couldn't find it (which is why the first post has a, what seems to be, an outdated listing), meanwhile getting an U1MB is easy and freely available. That said I'm perfectly willing to add a comparison if someone more knowledgeable than me would give the info.

Thanks for your help anyways, I doubt I'd be able to find a way to update the Firmware without you and that ATR file and would probably have taken way longer to try and lower the SIO2SD speed to see if that works. BTW is removing the caps (c77 and C78) worth it like stated here http://sio2sd.gucio.pl/wiki/HighSpeed_en?

Fixed it, needed to disable BASIC again and had to put my SIO2SD on a lower speed. Now it runs everything consistently good.

Fixed my initial issues, AD6502 was due to, seemingly, a bad transfer to the SD and with boogie nights I simply didn't hold option long enough to disable BASIC which seems like a beginner mistake. Aside from that I currently have the issue that the flash disk doesn't run most of the time (I'd get "Device NAK") and when it does run it says the rom files have lower than expected file size 0kb.

Ribbon cables seem to be fine. I might be able to lend a spare machine from a friend of mine. Meanwhile I'm trying to update the firmware of the Ultimate using a sio2SD, however when I type in spartaDOS "UFLASH.XEX" it gives me error "148 unknown file system", also the manual refrences "FIRMWARE.ATR", that file seems to be nowhere found.

Changing setting doesn't do anything, pressing down on the CPLD also doesn't do anything, Patched wires I was planning on fixing but multimeter says their fine, XRAM doesn't seem to have found anything and I don't have another machine so I can't replace 74LS08

http://imgur.com/gallery/PqQrAThe Bios

http://imgur.com/gallery/QWlQs Here, how my installation looks.

It's an 800XL, and a lotharek build. I'll make pictures in the morning.

I've recently installed my ultimate 1MB but since than I've had issues with the computer. I've now had three times where the computer froze on either loading or regular use after which it gives a black screen, which seem to only be fixable (and has been fixable up to this point) by removing the U1MB for half an hour or so. Getting of it off power however doesn't solve that issue. Also some software like AD:6502 (Arsantica 2) by Desire seems to either not run or have graphical glitches (boogie night doesn't run at all, AD:6502 has glitchy bar popping across the screen during the mountain part of the demo). Is my 1MB faulty or could it possibly be something else?