Smokeless Joe

I’m nowhere near Cincinnati, but when you find someone to do the work, here’s where you can get a set of caps: https://console5.com/store/atari-1050-floppy-disk-drive-cap-kit.html I got new caps for for my 400 here. Maybe they’re cheaper elsewhere, but I like supporting those that make kits like this.

I’m just getting into assembly language, so apologies for the NOOB questions: How does anyone assemble this code? Is there a recommended assembler? Are there instructions anywhere? Thanks

One, please.

According to the Ultimate 1MB, Incognito and 1088XEL-U1MB Firmware Manual: "From version 3.10 onwards, 8K ROM and CAR file support has been dropped and will be superseded by full cartridge emulation under SIDE3." While I wait for the SIDE3, what are my options for loading a .CAR or .ROM file on a 1088XEL with a XEL-CF3? Specifically, I want to load the MAC/65 1.02 with DDT .ROM file and still have access to the CF drive. Thanks!

Sometimes, the just act of writing things down shakes the rust off the ol' coconut. From the schematics here, we can clearly see the connections I'm looking for are at J3: SO the correct answer is "I am blind". Thanks!

I'm building one of these Rapidus variants now. I searched before asking this question, so please let me know if I missed this anywhere: Comparing the Rapidus variant connections with the original XEL-CF3 here, I see where to connect the CF activity LED on the Rapidus variant, but I don't see where to connect the swap button or the swap button LED. Am I blind (very possible), are they missing, can I connect them to the MBPI pins, or something else? Thanks!

Has anyone tried the Commodore 64 Component Video Mod? I’m seriously looking at it for my C64C. Any idea if it would work on a C64 Reloaded MK2?

Ripped-off from Inspired by Mytek's Transkey-II Stereo Interface, I created the Atari 400 multi-port doodad: This provides a ps/2 port for a Transkey-II keyboard, an S-Video port for the UAV, and a 3.5mm audio out for any of the various UAV Audio Companions (stereo/mono switchable via jumper). All the connecting wires fit out the hole for the RF cable because I didn't trust myself to modify my Atari 400 case. Here is the physical board, doing it's thing, with and without cables attached: These are the parts used: Custom board: OSH Park Mini-din 6-pin socket: Jameco 11945 Mini-din 4-pin socket: Jameco 140791 3.5mm audio jack: Jameco 2161553 straight single headers: Jameco 160882 (breakaway, only need 2 pins but who doesn't need more of these?) right angle double headers: Jameco 203932 (breakaway, makes two 5x2 right angle headers) shorting jumper: Jameco 19141 female crimp pins: Pololu 1930 crimp connector housing, 2x5 pin: Pololu 1913 crimping tool: Pololu 1928 26 AWG wire: Amazon It works! Future improvements could include a 3d printed case and maybe a shielded 9 wire cable instead of loose 26 AWG wires.

The file for printing the 1088XEL cartridge tunnel for the Realan cases is available here: https://ataribits.weebly.com/accessories.html Alternately, they’re available for purchase here: https://thebrewingacademy.com/products/1088xel-cartridge-tunnel-for-realan-h80?_pos=1&_sid=8a9d243dc&_ss=r Worst case, I could order one and dremel it down to fit in the 400. With some effort, I ought to be able to edit the pattern and make one specifically for the 400. Fun!

Well, shucks. Best Electronics says they don't have any, I think. Sometimes I have problems parsing their replies. But yes, Atari 400 Cartridge guide CO10421 is what I'm looking for. I'd be very much obliged to anyone that has one for sale, or knows anyone who does. Thanks!

I was having a hard time picturing this until I realized how poor a job I did explaining my problem. My mistake! The part in question is #10 on the attached picture. The tabs I broke off are the ones at the top, the tabs that move the cartridge protector thing out of the way when a cartridge is inserted. The tabs on the bottom, that hold the part to the motherboard, are fine. Fortunately, the analogous part on the 800XL fits well enough. Aesthetically it doesn't match, but it's hard to see anyway, Functionally, it works!

Three days after the final assembly of my deluxe 400, I managed to break off both tabs on the cartridge socket. What are my options to replace it? - The Atari 400 - 800 Field Service Manual (p. 9-4) lists the part as C014021 Cartridge Socket. Googling that doesn't get me very far. - I have a similar part from an 800XL that looks like it might fit. - Any 3D printer files out there? Any other ideas?

I ended up using a Lyra 3 (https://icomp.de/shop-icomp/en/shop/product/lyra-keyboard-adapters.html) with a ps/2 keyboard. It works fine using a 6-pin mini-din data switch box, so I'm happy. I like Daedalus2097's idea of contacting the developers. I'll try that (eventually) and see what they suggest.

I just got my first Amiga; an A1200! Woo! I bought the Sum USB adapter (http://amigaonthelake.com/the-sum-a1200-keyboard-adapter/) and it works great when the keyboard is directly plugged in. Unfortunately, it doesn't work at all when I have the keyboard plugged into a hub/switch. My setup is an IOGear GUS404 (4x4 USB switch) that has an Apple m7803 keyboard connected. The USB switch is plugged into an Apple IIgs and a Mac Quadra 840av using a Wombat USB adapter. Both of these computers work fine with this setup. Plugging the Apple m7803 keyboard directly into the Sum works great (caps lock lights up, keys all seem to match, control + L-command + R-command does a reset), but plugging the keyboard into the switch and the switch into the Sum does not work. I've verified that I have the switch set to the right output. I also tried plugging in a 5V mini USB power adapter into the USB switch (no effect). Any other suggestions? Thanks! -Joe

Looks like the MCP6001 has a sibling, the MCP6002, that comes in a through-hole variation. The pins are a little different, but otherwise I think it should work. Check out the data sheet at: https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/268/21733e-41017.pdf Okay, that datasheet is huge, but the first page should cover it.

There's some discussion of the Audio Companion on the UAV Rev D thread, starting about here: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/260267-the-uav-rev-d-video-upgrade-thread/?p=4211810 It sounds like they are not available anywhere right now. The schematic doesn't look too complicated, although it looks like the MCP6001 is a surface-mount component. Any through-hole alternatives? -Joe

Is the Audio Companion for the UAV available anywhere? I PMed Bryan but it sounds like hes busy with life, which is cool, but I figured Id see if its available anywhere else. Thanks!

Anyone update their UAF with Stella 6 yet?

Ive been using an old Hakko 808 for about three years. Its really wonderful. I used to think it was cheating, that maybe someone with far superior desoldering skills would scoff at such a tool, but I dont care. It makes desoldering a breeze.

Well, shucks, now its even worse. My Mac no longer automatically unzips the file. No problem, ApplePi-Baker can read zip files. However, once its done putting the contents of the zip file on the microSD card, my Mac reports it can no longer read the microSD and asks if I want to initialize it. I dont initialize it, put it into the Pi and... Two different monitors report no signal. I double checked with a known good microSD and the Pi is plugged in correctly and working. Any other ideas?

Cool! Well, not cool the image was corrupted, but thanks for looking into it!

Apple Pi Baker is really cool, but I get the same thing when I try to boot from the microSD: 4 Raspberry icons in the top left corner of a black screen. I even let it sit for an hour or so, just to be sure I wasnt being impatient. My Pi says Raspberry Pi 3 Model B V1.2, so that seems okay. Im wondering if its looking for some hardware. I dont have anything else plugged in except power and the HDMI cable. Im hoping to get a Flashback 4 for cheap from craigslist, but I still need to order the 2600-daptors. I was kinda hoping to test the software before I go all in with everything else. Are there any files that needs to be configured before I try to boot? Thanks!

Further weirdness: On my Mac (macOS 10.13.1), when I download the zip file, the zip file is automatically unzipped and I get an img file that the system can mount. Then I copy over the files from the mounted img to the newly formatted SD card. On my Windows 10 system, the default unzip program and 7zip both fail to unzip the zip file. WinRAR will unzip it, although it pauses for a long time at 99%. But then I get a file corrupted message when attempting to mount the img. This happens even if I copy THE SAME zip file that my Mac automatically unzips. What am I missing?

I just downloaded the image via the link above (posted Oct 7). I extracted it fine and copied it to a newly formatted SD card, but when I try to boot the Raspberry Pi, I get the four raspberry icons and nothing else. I think the hardware is good because Im installing Raspbian on it as I type this. I even reformatted the same SD card and put NOOBS 2.4.4 on it for the install. Here are my questions based on what I think might be wrong: - Is there anything special I need to do to put the image on the SD card? - How long should I wait on powerup for something to happen? - Do I need to have all the buttons and adaptors plugged in? Right now its just the Raspberry Pi, SD card and HDMI cable going to a monitor. Any other thoughts? Thanks!