sebastius

Well, i personally think that this is just a regular NES with the security chip disabled. It may be a first gen NES without security chip. But it sure as **** aint an official test system, even if the NOA stamp is in it.

But how were the clear transparent labels done?

Just post your problems here, we can probably help you fix the easy ones...

I've got three bootleg arkanoid boardsets. One is incomplete, ill skip that one. The first boots nicely, all graphics are there, EXCEPT the paddle, the ball and the random floating aliens that drop in from above. Those are all missing. The game works though, but invisible arkanoid is not really my favourite... And it's a bit difficult to finish. I havent started poking around this one yet. The second boots as well, but the screen has bars from left to right (actually, if you put the monitor in the horizontal mode, its from top to bottom offcourse). Its a bar good picture, a bar random garbage sprites, a bar picture, etc. About eight bars good and eight garbage, i reckon. Things i've tried with the second board: Removing and reseating eproms. Replacing some roms. I tried shorting some adress bits in the vid ram(got garbage on the GOOD part of the screen, but no change in the bad part). If anyone has any experience with arkanoid problems, or recognizes this problem from another game, i'd be very happy...

And any european sources would be greatly apreciated too

Actually that's not all that difficult. I have some tiny Nokia vibra motors used in cellphones. Really tiny, and not very power consuming. Then you just hook the motor to a specific adres bit (same with led) and code something that uses it. Force Feedback gaming, anyone?

All systems have continuous advancement in one way or another. Atari with more sophisticated programming (which is a lot easier now, with pc's and development tools), Nintendo with special chips (FX chip, DSP chip etc) and so many many others. The main advancement in all consoles is the bankswitching, allowing for larger games. The early Atari or Nintendo games did not have such systems, those came in the later periods.

Damned, i NEARLY had a Vectrex for 80 euro's. Got sniped for 80 cents...

[edit] stupid me, i didn't notice it was over already [/edit] If you leave your arcades in the basement, and if you have time, please unscrew the boards and put them somewhere high and dry. Cabinets can be rebuilt/repainted. Boards can not. Good luck with Isabel, and just be safe. A collection is not worth dying for. For most people that is.

http://www.atariage.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=31466 And even with this beautifull setup I cant get past level 3 on friggin' easy mode...

It just might be that Spyhunter indeed has some messy timing routines that are just off the average, or perhaps the clock generator in your atari is off...

That's what i meant. That way you can even have scenery music for certain areas in games (if such a thing even exists in 2600 games)

Sounds like a modern KidVid. Why, indeed. Haven't thought of that. But still, i'd like a soundtrack behind my games.

Why not make a special IO adapter for the 2600 that controls a cd player? That way you can have ingame high quality music and still have NO cpu load. A bit like that Activision classics set for the PS/2. Just hook it up to certain adress/databits and it'd work when someone codes support for it. And it'd be way easier to implement and it MAY make a nice mix between 2600 sounds and CD Music.

No, it would just be 'no picture at all', since you'd be connecting the ground wire to the signal wire. But sure, you should try it.

There's also a very cheesy looking Famicon colored GBA SP, with red and gold, but in very limited edition...

Damn, i wish i had such finds here in holland.

Its not only just to prepare for bigger carts, but also i think so little kids can hold them and insert them. And if you make those carts any smaller you get that 'is that all i paid for' feeling. Consider this: NES carts generally have a PCB in them that fills up to one quarter of the whole damn thing! The biggest ones may reach about half, but nothing more. It's all air!

The fact that you even bother with selling a 15 dollar cartridge amazes me, i'm way to lazy for that. But in that Metroid cart there is a battery. But if it's broken, its an easy fix and more importantly: It does NOT break the game. And considering the fact that all my NES and GB games with batt's still work with no problems, i don't think your battery has run out. It's probably that bastard's gameboy that's as filthy as can be. Instruct him to blow in the damn thing. It may help.

It looks to me like an old fashioned home brew dev/bootleg system.

All pics are clickable for a huge version I've hooked up my PAL gamecube to an generic Arcade Screen which is supposed to be mounted in a cabinet in a few weeks. Basically, what i did was built the sync splitter in the Dreamcast2Jamma Project and then i hooked up the entire mess to the screen. And after some tweaking with the colors, it works! Finally I can play Ikaruga the way it's meant to be played. Full Screen instead of something reduced to 60% of the original picture...

200 bucks per machine that are broken (for parts means: it's considered scrap but i still want to make money for it), and a monitor for a ms pacman can be costly is rather steep.

Well, what i think counts more than actual money value is: which machine do you like better? I've got a junior and a 4switcher with the woodgrain front, and i definetly like the woodgrain a lot better. I had the oppurtunity to buy a PAL 'vader' for not all that much, but i skipped it, because i don't like the way it looks.

If you can open the carts, use a good kitchen grease cleaning spray on the edge connector (try it first on the ugliest and most common game you have at least 10 copies of). Works also for the outside of most carts, but try it first on something you don't really want to save. Alternatively use a pencil eraser to rub the contacts clean. Or use a q-tip with some alcohol so you can reach the contacts with the cartridge unopened.

If you ever have time, could you perhaps make some quality scans of all those manuals and schematics? The ones that are available on the net are quite .... well... uhmmm... crap. Not that i dont apreciate their effort, but if someone has the ability to do some proper scans, it'd be great for all rally-x owners (yes, i own a rally-x boardset, got it for free!)