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Posts posted by Madi
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9 hours ago, STE'86 said:How do you work out that a screen showing a middle eastern arabian palace in a desert with arabic style filigree, arches and decoration, over which titles are displayed in a cinematic style, doesnt set the scene for PoP?
which is a cinematic game, entirely based inside...an arabian palace.
your logic escapes me...
To clarify it, the picture has nothing to do with Arabian architecture or building style any where in Arabian peninsula . Have never seen such buildings in any Arabian land (desserts or forests).
This is more of Indian style and to some extent a Persian (northen east).
I believe it is an American type of story made by American cinematic world.😁
madi
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32 minutes ago, Nezgar said:Hi @Madi
I was visiting my dad's place recently and found this in one of his spare parts bins, thought of you and grabbed it. It must have come from an 810 or 1050 at some point, because the solder on the pins looked like it was torn off of a PCB before I cleaned them up... If you still need one PM me, i'll drop it in the mail.
Interesting it's stackpole, same brand as 800 (and some 800xl?) keyboard keyswitches...
Hi @Nezgar
It is very kind of you to think of me. I did manage to fix my broken switch with superglue and applied a thin layer of epoxy. It looked ugly but works great.
I can not thank you enough for your generosity. I will keep that in mind for future need. Indeed, this switch is so previous due to its rarity.
Thank ounce again.
Madi
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55 minutes ago, MrFish said:As is turns out, the third set I was thinking of doesn't exist; it was actually just a large ROM collection.
There are some bios sets provided by some members. The sets are essentially the same except for some differences. We could make one collection to be standard. Hence, update to that collection will be much easier.
madi
Altirra Bios _by Serj list.rar Altirra bios_by Mclaneinc .rar Altirra Bios_by Scotty.rar
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2 hours ago, drac030 said:There is no fixed location. TD.COM is a relocatable file, so it is residing in the memory wherever the MEMLO pointer was pointing to when TD.COM was about to be loaded to the memory.
Welcome back.
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6 hours ago, MrFish said:Not in a couple of weeks...
Welcome back MrFish. Missed your inputs.
Madi
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5 minutes ago, a8isa1 said:sorry, I meant SPIFFS was empty during my test.
I have an appointment with the cardiologist so further testing will have to wait. I find out today whether I have a problem that needs immediate attention or if it's just something that needs watching.
I don't have a USB to serial adapter so no direct means to see your debugging output. Perhaps I can rig something with a Raspbery Pi later.
-SteveS
Wish your tests turn OK.
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6 minutes ago, oo7 said:Hi, I lost my copy of osromv36.zip from Freddy's page. His page seems to no longer exist.
Anyone know where one could find this? Or a newer version if 3.6 wasnt the latest?
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9 hours ago, CrazyChris said:I am noticing a strange lag in Altirra 3.20, when pushing the fire button,
to start this game.
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Can anyone else confirm this?
The game button behaves normal during play. No noticeable delay.
Altirra 3.90 test 17 - under WIN 10 x64
Did not test other versions/tests.
madi
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21 minutes ago, Justin Payne said:Maybe the author might be willing to drop it on Github for others to make modifications to it.
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2 hours ago, phaeron said:Funny how things work out sometimes... should be fixed now:
Back to normal 👍 .. Fixed
Thanks
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The new relese "Altirra-3.90-test15" crashes just after loading. No response. No error message. Once loaded it stays on screen for few seconds. The mouse pointer changes to blue circle. Then it vanishes.
Edit : Both of Altirra.exe and the 64 version act the same. System Win 10 1903 - x64.
Reverted back to test 14. (working version)
madi
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I am sure you have checked that the the video cable is connected to TV/monitor and tested with another device.
Actually, it happened to me once 😀
Check monitor jack for broken traces.
Use the generic RC connector with (Ch2 -3).
Press START while turning the computer (cassette sound?)
If there is no sign of life or even a blink after that, then it is a mystery to me since you had already tried the U1MB and UV boards.
Good luck
madi
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8 minutes ago, Mr Robot said:I changed the silk screen... then changed it back. I think it's correct to think of it from the drives (and therefore the UNO's) perspective.
I guess just blinking a single LED for activity would get rid of the problem, and be more authentic.
I guess, you have a point here. Still I recommend that you keep rx-dx leds. I like the alternating light better.
Any how I tried to remap the routing of the wiring. I cant say that it is 100% correct.
Let me take this moment to thank you for the time effort and money you put into such projects and your kind welling to share your designs and tutorials with Atari community members.
madi
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On 10/8/2019 at 3:03 PM, Mr Robot said:I am having some difficulties tracing the pins of V5 board.
It looks as if TX-RX led signals pins are switched out. This may be due to some mixed up in the routing.
Can you clarify please?
Thanks
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10 hours ago, E474 said:Hi,
If I power from the (micro) USB connector, the normal SDrive Max screen/menu is displayed, but at this point, I haven't connected the SDrive-Max to the 8-bit, I'm just testing how well it works.
If I disconnect the USB, and connect the SIO, I just get a white screen (sorry if this wasn't clear).
When you connect SIO to device and turn on the Computer, you should boot to SDrive menu on the monitor/TV screen. I think the power that is coming from pin 10 of the SIO is not enough to fully power the TFT screen of the SDrive. There are several causes for this, depending on how heavenly moded your computer is . As a summery, if you are using a stock computer the device screen should come on. But if you are using a moded 8 bit computer, it is likely that the power coming from the computer will not be enough.
Best practice, is to use a 9-12v external power supply.
madi
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20 minutes ago, The Mr. Video said:Now how did that end up on a Sirius disk? This is starting to reminding me of those Laserdisc dead sides. I should check the B-sides of other disk in my collection and see what I can find. Also, wouldn't it be theoretically possible to disable the copy protection on this copy and get the game to work?
Look here for a cracked version. Add the crack data to your copy. (Reveal hidden contents of the Full list of images)
Try it.
madi
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If Scanlines box is checked, Monochrome display can't be set. (no scanlines in monochrome display)
madi
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13 hours ago, Claudio H. Picolo said:I upgraded the firmware of my TL866CS exactly as described on the start of this topic. It worked fine.
The programmer software recognized it as a TL866A, made the autotest as OK..
..
Have a look at this video? HERE
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14 hours ago, xrbrevin said:dropcheck uses a 4-position rotary switch on her mysterious XF551 mod board
might be an option?
Thank you for your valuable suggestion. However I think, this type of 4position, 1pole will not accommodate all 4 drive select options.
The 5 position 1 pole switch will be suffice, but the nice numbering will be lost. Also, using 4 position 2 poles will be acceptable, but I noticed (from reviewing few switches) that they are bulky and need drilling of the case.
Again, thank you for the effort.
madi
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37 minutes ago, The Mr. Video said:So I built the cable and dumped the disk using Disk Wizard II. It says that the b-side is full of bad sectors. It may just be some corrupt data, but here is the .atr file if you want to take a look at it.
The copy has no data. All zeros
madi
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3 hours ago, Nezgar said:Another option is bypassing the old switch entirely and install a new toggle switch mounted on the case - even at the front of the drive for convenience. You'd have some options with this route:
- One 2 position switch: toggle between D1 and D2
- Two 2 position switches, toggle D1-D4 with 4 combinations.
- One 3 position switch, toggle D1, D2, D4 (with D1 being the middle position) I have one drive setup with this configuration.
- A double pole 4-position slider switch to select between all 4 should also work. I've seen this used for a 4 OS slider switch.
You are right. There are a lot of ways to look at it.
I am thinking of replacing the defective switch with 2 bit Slide Type Switch 2.54 mm like in the picture.
I have a crazy idea that involves replacement of the SS-packaging of the old switch with one generic slide switch packaging. Of course, I have to take measurements and dimension of the defective switch packaging. This would be my last resort.
thanks for the info
madi
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7 hours ago, BillC said:It's possible that your ID select switch only needs cleaning.
Actually, 2 tabs that hold the packing to the core of the switch are broken.
The issue I am having is that Best electronics who have this switch asking for 20 US as minimum purchase. Add that to the international shipping cost= $$$.
madi
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7 hours ago, JR> said:Best Electronics:
810 / 1050 Drive select switch CO14725 $2.00
Thanks .. sent a request. I will have an open eye on the International shipping cost 🙄







Printing
in Atari 8-Bit Computers
Posted · Edited by Madi
no need
Edit: Deleted ..
Same answer provided by @Rybags.
madi