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Everything posted by TheRealAnubis

  1. Hi, I picked up an Atari IndusGT floppy drive that's not working (repair soon to come!), but I have a few questions about it as I've never owned one. 1. Can this make copies of games similar to the abilities of the 'happy' drives? 2. Does it use more of the floppy than the standard 1050? (formatted size is larger) 3. Other than looking cool, and having a track readout, what are the benefits of having one as opposed to a standard 1050? I know that I always wanted one for my C64, but to this point I've never laid eyes on one... Thanks!
  2. Hmmm.. I haven't gotten any screen rolls, but on some of the older 64's the letters will randomly change colors as soon as you move the 'cursor'. It could be exposing a weak component in your 64 possibly? Is it the 8 pin video, or the older version? And, how do you have it connected - RF or DIN cable?
  3. You're probably right, but I always like to try a couple of ways just to make sure...
  4. Did you try to use the old eraser trick on the start button? If not, try getting a pencil eraser and gently erase the traces on the mylar contact sheet, then get some isopropyl alcohol and an qtip and clean the freshly erased area and the contact pad. You can usually resurrect any controller this way - but depending on the degradation of the contact pad / mylar trace sheet, it may not last long..
  5. I'm glad that I could chip in at least a little and contribute! Good luck on the WinXP/Mac thing. I sometimes had troubles running XP on a PC -
  6. Hmmm.. My links are probably all long dead now - Anything in particular that you're looking for? I'll try to do some digging in my Commodore stuff later this week... Building a 'library' of working games is always a challenge, but once you've straggled through tons of images, you'll have something that many do not take the time to have - a lot of really working games! Multi disk games are a bit of a pain - you have to name them correctly - I usually put the game in a folder with that game name, then just name the disk sides 001, 002, 003, etc. Then sometimes it seems you have to press the 'next' button to go to the next disk twice. I hope that helps a little..
  7. Nothing like replacing a clunky 1541 with a slick little SD card drive!
  8. Hi, I went ahead and sprung for the $15 and just got the manual in the mail! It was the same revision as the one that I already found online. I've added the schematics and silkscreens (4 additional pages) to the Field Service Manual that I found online - Thanks again Allan! 1010_cassette_recorder_field_service_manual_Schematics_and_Silkscreens_NEW.pdf This manual was new and the pages I added were folded and stapled to the front cover using the same staple that holds it all together!
  9. I bet there are plenty of experts that can list all the differences- the ones I know are: 4 ports instead of 2 4 port model needs fix to use 2600 adapter (* models, plus you can DIY) 4 port model plays all 5200 games (I understand that the 2 port models won't play a few fames) 4 port model has power combined into the RF switch- there's no power connector on the 5200 itself. That's all I know for sure. If anyone can add to this info, or correct any mistakes, please feel free to do so. I'm pretty new to the 5200, but I've already repaired 3 of them, including one 2 port model.
  10. That got me as well... None of the 10 or so games that I had made a sound until you hit start! You may be fine! Let me know what happens once you get a working controller hooked up.. I thought that it was strange that they were all so quiet, but this being my first 5200, I didn't know.
  11. As far as I know, the asterisk models were 'fixed' 4 port versions, modified so that you could use the 2600 adapter to play 2600 games. Without the fix it would apparently fry the adapter.
  12. Those look like the right ones.. Have you swapped the POKEY out to see if that's a problem? Also, try (gently) removing and then replacing the POKEY - sometimes they get corroded a bit and don't connect well.
  13. I agree with you - I know that the Commodore drives were a lot 'smarter' than typical drives, and they could do quite a bit - maybe it was just the sensor being left out that was the main cause of their problems? I can't understand why they didn't implement that feature since it seems most other drives of the day had them... I am a little sorry upon learning about the artifacting methods - the colors used (at least in the few games I've tried) look awful in comparison to the C64. I played a LOT of Ultima III, so when I loaded it up on the Atari I thought something was wrong with the machine, so I tried my other one with the exact same results. I wonder if it would look any better on a standard computer monitor (Commodore 1702) instead of my LCD TV, which doesn't get along well with many of my vintage systems... I'll try the 1702 sometime today and report back, as I don't want to blame the Atari for my monitor being picky...
  14. I'll see if I can find it on any of these disks that I just got. It's a big box stuffed full, so it'll take a bit..
  15. I feel like I had a bad case of noob-itis, but hey, if you don't know, you don't know! I'm still getting used to the row of keys down the side of the 800XL as well - Reset, Option, Select, etc. I will say that these 1050 drives are workhorses. I've had plenty of experience with Commodore 1541 drives, and I think they may be a little more problematic than the Atari ones. It could be a better design, or the Commodore owners just fooled with theirs a lot more..
  16. Good information! I made sure to clean the heads, and then I left the top cover off so I could see if any of the disks were polluting the head. But my real problem was..... For some reason I was holding 'Select', and so there you go! I thought holding down 'Option' just took you to the self test. Sweet! Now I can actually load all of those games! The only question I have now is - how do the colors look on these games? I have C64 as a reference, so I'm not sure how they are supposed to look on Atari. On both 800XL's that I have, the Lode Runner screen is mostly red, and the Ultima III screen seems more green than anything else. Both have the correct appearance on boot. Anyone have any screenshots of an actual 800XL playing either of these games? Maybe I need to do some adjustments...
  17. Hi, I just got a large box of floppies and a 1050 drive. While trying to load the disks, some work, some don't some kind of work. For example - Loderunner loads up, but the screen is reddish and all of the graphics are scrambled - this floppy is a copy, so that may be it. Forbidden forest starts to load and then hangs - this is a factory disk that states 'for all atari computers'. Some of the disks are labeled 130xe, but most just have a user printed label with the game name. The Ultima I disk (copy) has 'needs fix XL' written on it, and Ultima II or III won't load all the way either. Epyx Dragonriders of Pern doesn't finish loading (original). I've tried 2 different working drives and 2 different working 800XL's. Is there a way to check which system these games are supposed to be used on? Thanks!
  18. Just a quick update - I just saw one of these listed on ebay pretty cheap - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-COMMODORE-VIC-20-AC-Power-Supply-Brick-Adapter-no-902502-02-/271541805325?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f3927210d
  19. As far as I know, he uses only top quality parts and hand builds and tests them. I'd consider anything Ray makes and sells as the Cadillac of Commodore items. If you want the very best, made in the USA by a pro, then you buy his stuff! This is just my opinion, as I've dealt with Ray on several occasions and he's a great guy and absolutely knows his stuff.
  20. I agree- if it originally takes AC, I don't mess with it - I just get AC again! I've been going to the thrift stores and rummaging in the wires and cords bin. I'm finding 5VDC 2+ Amps, but the 9VAC ones are a little tougher to find - at least here in FL.
  21. I'm sorry about this post, but after reading the title, I thought - "maybe it's a prude!" Hahahaha!
  22. If you're handy, you can make your own out of modern wall-wart type supplies. Get the correct DIN plug end, a 5VDC 2Amp, and a 9VAC 1Amp, then wire it up to the DIN. Just make sure to check and double check the voltages and pins are correct before you connect it to your 64!
  23. I do repairs, but the PS needs tested as well.. If the PS is still good, I'd recommend one of Ray Carlsen's power savers, or as stated above, a better PS. You can get a good older one that's Commodore brand by looking for a PS that came with the 1764 RAM expansion (tough to find) to a c-128 PS - you can either add the correct din plug yourself (the 128 has a square plug), or get the adapter cable on eBay. Not the cheapest options, but these types of PS' don't die and fry stuff like the old brick style ones do.. Don't be fooled by the tan ones that look just like the black bricks- they are just 64c ones that will kill your 64. The black screen is the toughest one to troubleshoot- it can be RAM, PLA,VIC II, CPU, along with almost anything else. That's where a working socketed test board comes in handy..
  24. You can soft mod the Xbox - do a search for "xecuter2". I picked one up at a flea market that was modded with this. When I took it apart to replace the clock capacitor and redo the thermal paste, there was no hardware mods at all. Have fun! You can also search something along the lines of "how to soft mod my XboX" as well...
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