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Everything posted by TheRealAnubis

  1. Sikor- thanks for the link, but that is one of the ones I have already located. It's a nice one, but incomplete when it comes to all of the component values..
  2. I popped them a note asking if the manual had the schematics/silkscreens included - I'm awaiting a response.
  3. That would be superb! Thank you for scanning in the ones already available as well! I'll check it out that link as well...
  4. Hi all, I've downloaded several 1010 field service manuals online, but none of them have the silkscreens or the schematics included. I'm trying to repair a couple of the 1010C decks, and it's tough when you can't get any part values. Does anyone have these schematics that they could scan in or link? Thank you in advance!
  5. Oh - and does anyone have a schematic available for download? I found one on a foreign site that's pretty nice, but it doesn't include the values of all components, and I'm not sure, but this may be the 1010S - NOT Hong Kong model.. I have downloaded the field service manual, but the schematics aren't included. Also - I have noticed that many of the diagnostic flow charts in the service manual lead to 'replace head' - were they that weak? I've had a ton of cassette decks over the years and never did I need to replace a head...
  6. Hopefully the models aren't so different that this won't help out at least a little.
  7. Well, even if my 1010 isn't working, I can still post up some pix on how to do the belt replacements! We'll start with opening up the 1010: Remove the screws in the indicated areas - Now gently open up the deck by opening the back and getting the bottom half to separate from the front faceplate - caution! The faceplate is held by plastic tabs on the top and bottom that can be easily broken - just be slow and easy and it will come apart! The two red arrows indicate the plugs that need to be removed so you can separate the deck into 3 pieces - top, bottom, and faceplate. The green arrows indicate the screws you need to remove to get the drive belt changed. The red arrows show the location of the other screws that you need to remove once the drive belt is changed, and you're ready to change the counter belt: Here's a different angle showing the other screw's location better - I've labeled them A and B (note A is already removed) - when you remove B, make sure to get the screw and the little spacer/collar that goes with it.. Here is a pic of the 2 screws that you need to remove to change the drive belt - note the smaller screw and collar. Once the screws are out, you can rotate the plate up slightly in the direction of the red arrow: Once you have rotated the plate up enough, you will see a notch where you can slip the belt out of. Also note the lower red arrow - this is where you attach the screw with the collar - through the black plastic piece. I cleaned the belt path with 91% isopropyl alcohol to make sure it was free of any sticky stuff or rubber chaff: Now you can put the 2 screws back in place and that's it for the drive belt! Note the yellow arrow - I failed to put this little metal finger through a slot in the black plastic piece before I re-attached it with the screw and collar - make sure that the finger is in the plastic piece or your eject button will not work correctly! Now you can gently lift the assembly up and remove the counter belt - the red arrow shows where it goes - around the base of the forward tape drive pin. The green arrow shows the cassette door latch (part of the black plastic piece you removed earlier) - make sure to gently fit the assembly back onto the top case, allowing the door latch to click over the door pin and hold the door closed. I also cleaned the counter belt path with alcohol. I found re-assembly to be a bit of a pain! I popped the plugs back in for the LED and heads/motor, etc. then snaked the wires down to make sure they didn't get pinched, then closed the top and bottom almost all the way, and gently replaced the faceplate. Take note of the red arrows - they indicate 2 leaf switches and 2 plates on the FF and REW buttons. The switches go behind the plates (so you won't see them when it's back together) - if you're fuddling around trying to get it back together and not minding the switches, they can get bent easily! (Ahem!). The green arrow shows where the wiring harness can be gently tucked as not to become pinched by the case or screws. This last pic just shows the order that I put it back together - just make sure everything is plugged in, and no wires are getting pinched - First the top and bottom case come together (almost all the way), then I started the top of the faceplate - hooking the faceplate over the tabs, then rotating the faceplate down until it's flush, then finally close the case completely. It may take a try or two since holding all these pieces is pretty awkward! It seems like a lot, but it's a fairly quick process - especially if you don't have to measure the belts!
  8. Well, I just got the belts in and installed on one of the 1010's - they fit really well! The counter belt seems a little thin compared to the old one, but not my much - now it all runs correctly. Of course, the 1010 still isn't working. I've tried loading a commercial cassette (using CLOAD, and the select, select/option), as well as just getting a cassette and saving a simple 2 line program to it, then trying to reload. I get error 138, 140, etc. but it never loads.. Heads, pinch roller, capstan all clean. If I pop a music cassette in I can just barely hear it if I crank up the volume pretty high. I'm thinking it may be a short somewhere, or maybe bad capacitors. Any tips?
  9. The 'Toshiba' listing at the end of the 4164 cross reference is really "TI (Texas Instruments)"
  10. After stocking my Atari800XL with new RAM that I had for my C64, I went on a search for some cross-references to find out what other IC's would work as a drop in replacement. I've used several of these types in various C64's (NOT the C64C) with complete success. If you find any errors or additions, please let me know! The 4164 RAM IC has been shown to work in the following computers - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Apple IIe Apple IIc (Early - Mid production) — late models with 4464 chips, do not work with 4164's Apple Macintosh 128k Atari800XL C64 - (Early - Mid production) — late models with 4464 chips, do not work with 4164's (C64C) C128 - (Early - Mid production) — late models with 4464 chips, do not work with 4164's C PET (Replaces 4116's) - See note at bottom for modification? COCO 2 - (Early - Mid production) — late models with 4464 chips, do not work with 4164's ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4164 64K x 1 DRAM Cross Reference: Fairchild - MB8264-15 Hitachi - HYB4164P2BD, HM4864 Micron - MT4264-25 Mitsubishi - M5K4164AP-15, M5K4164 ANP-10 Mostek - MK4564N-20 Motorola - MCM4164BP15, MCM6665BP20, MCM6665AP NEC - D4164C-2, D4164C-15, uPD 4164-1 Samsung - KM4164B-15 OKI - M3764A-15 Toshiba - TMS4164-15NL, TMS4164-20NL ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I also found some information on replacing 4116 RAM with 4164/4516 RAM. Here is the info from the C64 Wiki about replacing 4116 RAM with 4164 RAM (I'm not sure if the method is the same for the 4516 RAM): Some of the systems that use 4116 RAM are the Colecovision consoles, TI 99/4A computers, and some Williams arcade PCB's like - Defender, Joust, Robotron. How to use a 4164 chip instead the original 4116: Bend pin 1 und 8 upwards so they no longer go into the socket's connectors. Connect Pin 8 and 9 with one another through a short piece of wire. Make sure pin 1 and 8 are not in contact with any other components nearby. Insert the chip like this into the socket. If you need one of the 4164 chips, you can also use a 41256 instead. You have to solder a short piece of wire between pins 1 and 16 of that chip (these are the pins just left and right of the alignment notch on the chip). This mod will make the chip look just like a '64 chip to the system. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- PLEASE make sure to check my notes before you purchase or install these RAM IC's. It's always good to make double - sure! I hope this list helps you find the RAM that you need!
  11. Great idea! I just did this with mine, after spraying both pots liberally with contact cleaner / lube. I use ECG industries RX500-12 - it seems to work really well! For some reason I didn't get the pots connected back correctly the first time, so a good thing to do is take a nice close-up picture before you remove them.
  12. I've heard of that, but never tried it! That and 'piggybacking' RAM to locate the faulty IC. I've tried that over a dozen times, and finally while tinkering with a C64 it finally worked! I was surprised (and impressed!). I'll give your idea a try as well - once they're sick, there's not much to lose!
  13. Yeah - I think they're exaggerating a bit there myself, but it is fun to read! I've always been a Sega fan, but I have plenty of Nintendo stuff as well. I really think the Dreamcast was one of the best systems ever. I'm sure that's up for debate, though!
  14. Those are pretty cool! I wonder how people that are seeking 'mint' items would react to that sticker? Maybe I could stick it on the inside.. Hmmmm
  15. Wow - I figured I was to only person to get the 'shredded paper soup' shipping. At any time I can go grab the 5200 and shake it and it starts snowing.. Grrrr. I agree - I just get frustrated when I have to school sellers, while taking a LOT of time fixing their mistakes.
  16. That's what I did with a C64 switch that I put into a 1581 drive - the plastic part was too tight, so I swapped it with the old part (which pops right off) and that took care of it!
  17. Well, things can always be extrapolated to any extremes, but if the pictures are in the auction, with the IC's installed in the mobo, the date matches the time frame of the item, and then they get the item pictured, try to swap out IC's, return it and the IC's don't match, then you have a pretty good case, I think. Unfortunately we aren't able to hand deliver the items into the buyer's hands, you can only do so much, but taking precautions that are within your power is a good idea, I think..
  18. Yeah, I've taken the 'teaching' route plenty of times as well - I guess I'm a bit frustrated with people in general not thinking ahead about anything. I mean, it would have only taken a few seconds to think "I wonder how I'd feel about receiving this package"? They made some basic attempts to keep the confetti out - like tape over the cartridge port and across the joyports. I still can't believe that putting the items in plastic bags to 100% keep the packing out of the items didn't occur to them, but then again, there's a lot of people that aren't thinking about the next step for anything, so why would this be different? Just a little bummed with the 'dim' pictures and crazy packing of late.
  19. Even after knowing a lot of the ins and outs you can still get hosed. I just got an Atari 5200 on ebay for a decent price - 4 port, trackball, 2 joysticks, RF/Power box, no power supply. Only one pic, but it looked pretty good - my mistake there is that you should grab any 'dark' photos and crank up the brightness on them if you can't see the item in detail (this has happened to me twice now, so I've learned). Once the brightness was cranked I could see that the trim piece on the front was missing, and of course, that wasn't mentioned in the description. As a matter of fact, more and more sellers are using the description area to tell you their shipping policy, and how they want 5 star feedback, etc. Check the auctions you are considering and see how many have 10 words or less about the actual item in the auction.. I can live with the missing trim piece, though, but when it arrived today I just about flipped. The person that sent this filled a box with shredded paper - like what you would get in your home shredder (super fine paper dust and all). Then they proceeded to place all of the items directly in the box, and then pour more shredded paper on top of them. When the package arrived, EVERY single item was filled with shredded paper and super fine paper dust. It seems that the idea of putting the stuff in plastic bags is too advanced for some. Anyway, after having to dis-assemble every item, vacuum out the chaff, then wipe everything down, then vacuum some more - it was well over an hour, and I was still finding paper in the items. There were bits of paper stuck under the cover for the start/pause/reset buttons - between the bottom of the plastic hold down piece and the top of the pads. I'm seriously thinking of taking a break from buying on ebay. I've had some good experiences, but these types of things are becoming more and more common.
  20. I've got one with an asterisk but it's not in blue- 001969 * EP-203.
  21. Yeah, they are a bit pricey when you only want one.. I typically try to shop around for other stuff I might need so at least the parts are more than the shipping! Also, sometimes - depending on the crowd, you could buy several and then offer them to anyone that needs them - you can usually sell stuff for less than they would just pay for one + shipping, so it's a good deal for both parties.
  22. Really? HAHAHAHAHA! That's pretty funny!
  23. Hi, Just a quick note in case this helps anyone - I have a couple of 5200's (2 port) in need of repair, and both of them have extremely faint sound. If you crank the volume waaaay up you can just barely hear the sounds. I thought it was strange that both of these units could have a dead POKEY, so instead of trying to locate a cartridge (then desolder, then clean up the pins, then install in 5200), I decided to pop out the POKEY's and test them in my Atari 800XL. PLEASE make sure that you get the right IC for your motherboard! I'm not sure if Atari did any revisions and moved things around or not... This goes for the 800XL as well! First, the POKEY in my 2 port 5200 was the large IC in the lower left of the motherboard (when the joystick ports are facing you). The label on the 5200 motherboard reads 'A7', and the chip has the number '12294' on it. I'm not sure why the labels are so fuzzy - they look great at 200%! Anyway, you get the idea. On the Atari 800XL, the POKEY is 'U22' on the motherboard. Pop the POKEY out of your 5200 and swap it with the one in your Atari 800XL, then hold down the 'option' key on the right hand row of buttons while powering on. When you see the blue screen, release the button. The self test options will come up, and then you can use the 'select' button to go to the 'Audio-Visual' test, then hit 'start'. The test will play a simple tune on all 4 voices. If it sounds good, I'm betting your POKEY is fine - look at the Axial Poly capacitors (C13 & C14) 820Pf 25V - in your 5200, as these are prone to failure. I just ordered some from Mouser - I could only find 50V, but the voltage rating on caps can always be larger than the original value, you just have to match the farad rating exactly. Search - 23PS182 - they are 25 cents each. I'd replace both of them at once. If anyone has anything to add, or if you find a mistake, please let me know!
  24. OOF! I wonder if there's any chance they could use the same belts?
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