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TheRealAnubis

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Everything posted by TheRealAnubis

  1. Actually, it's pretty straightforward - I'll see if I can put up a set of picture instructions, at least for the Hong Kong model... Until I do, I'll go through it - Remove the 4 bottom screws Remove the brown faceplate (unplug the LED from the board on the bottom half) Unplug the larger plug from the bottom half (tape heads, etc) You can prepare to change the drive belt at this step. Remove the 2 screws on the capstan bottom plate - you don't need to remove the plate! Just slip the old belt off and slip the new belt on - take care not to lose the little spacer that goes with the screw on the side of the capstain plate. Put the 2 plate screws back, then remove any screws needed to get the mechanism off of the top plate - gently remove the mechanism (watch for the catch for the cassette door). Remove the old belt, and install your new one. Put it all back together and enjoy! I'll see if I can get some pics up tonight or tomorrow for you..
  2. I have the same problem - too many things to fix, not enough time. Let me know if you end up getting one of those switches, and how it works out!
  3. Thanks for the info! I'll keep an eye out on the bay to see if one pops up with all the pieces. I'll probably never end up getting the piece if this is the way things are going on ebay....: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATARI-5200-2-PORT-SYSTEM-NO-POWER-FOR-PARTS-OR-REPAIR-AS-IS-/201114653063?pt=Video_Games&hash=item2ed35e1187 I know this is a 2 port one, but still.. WOW...
  4. Here's a picture of a 5200 that I found on ebay - I noted the area I'm talking about.
  5. The pins on mine seem small, but I only have the 2 to compare, and they are both the same. This looks like the old standard boombox/portable radio plug from the 70's-80's. On the plug end I found: Kawasaki KS-18. A little searching came up with this info: CEA-LC1 =Phino PHS-205 =Kawasaki KS-18B =TY-123 AC power cord 7A 125V 16x8MM, 7MM pin center ($6.21) From here: http://www.kenselectronics.com/lists/pwrcord.htm You may be able to use these other numbers to track down what you are looking for. These aren't my prettiest examples, but they were the ones I could get to the easiest!
  6. I know that the video IC in the early Vic's (and possibly the later ones) isn't heatsinked to the metal box that it's in (the C64 has a copper finger that goes from the IC top to the metal lid). I took apart an old Vic 20 a while back and the IC was disintegrating inside that box - after running it for about 20 minutes I checked it out for heat and it was pretty hot. I popped on a few copper heatsinks with the thermal tape that attaches them to the top of the IC to help dissipate that heat. If nothing else works, it's worth a shot - also, if you can, try swapping out the VIC chip in there to see if that makes a difference. Good luck! Here are picture of a different Vic, but even the edge on this video IC was flaking off..
  7. Here's some good info on the topic: http://www.lemon64.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=36201&sid=b5c92ad43c4236a5720b362e38cd1cb9
  8. I was never into the rivalry thing back in the day... I had friends with Atari Computers, and I had a Commodore 64 (and so did some of my other friends). We were too busy playing the Ultima series for any real debate, and if someone had a 'cool' game, you went over to their house to play it! I didn't know anyone with an Apple, except for the computer lab at school.. I do remember seeing this ad back in the day, though...
  9. Without seeing a pic of the switch internal, I would guess it's the same switch in the 1581, which is the same switch in the breadbin C64 (and maybe even the C64C). Here's a pic of a C64 switch - does it look like this? This is a 6 pin switch: IF that is the switch, here's a link where you can buy a new one (the only thing you may want to do is keep the plastic rocker part and use it on the new switch): http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/M2022TXW41-DA/360-2270-ND/1055859 I've been told that this is a drop in replacement, but haven't had to order one yet because I have several 'donor' boards that I get parts from. I hope this helps!
  10. One thing I've found is that the video out can depend on the revision of the VIC II (6567) chip. If you have an early revision (like a ceramic version), the video out can look terrible (especially on newer flatscreen monitors/TV's, etc.). Try it out and see if it looks acceptable to you - if not you may want to hunt down a newer revision VIC II, say R8 or R9 and see if that helps. I wish I knew all of the factors that make for the perfect picture on a C64 - For example, I've got some early versions that look pretty good, and some that don't, and they both can have the same early revision IC. With that said, composite out on a Commodore monitor usually looks pretty good...
  11. Hi, I just came across an Atari 5200 4 port model and it looks to be in really good shape, except it is missing the front trim piece. This is the part that goes across the whole top (not the metal part), covers the power LED, then wraps down over the controller ports. I shot off an email to Best, since they seem to carry everything I'm looking for, but just in case, does anyone have that part as an extra? Thanks!
  12. One of the versions I have loads up, but the graphics are all messed up - the game seems to work, but it's not playable.. I'll keep looking and see what I can find as well! Thanks!
  13. Imagine looking for something in your storage unit that you used last around 1992 (at the latest), and moved twice since then. BAM! Found it! And it only took about 2.5 hours of heavy lifting! I'll be posting the belt sizes for the Hong Kong model (BPA7YJ1010) ASAP! OK - I've got the belts measured. The drive belt wasn't as stretchy as the counter belt (and that's why it still worked) - here are the measurements and thicknesses minus 4% (the gauge recommends 3%-5%). Drive belt - Thickness (inches) .040 - .046 (either size will be a good fit), size (inches) 9.5". MCM part number - 42-260, price $1.40 Counter belt (real stretchy), Thickness (inches) .031 - .040 (either size will be a good fit), size (inches) 7.432", MCM part number - 42-235, price $1.40 My ACTUAL measurements (not stretching the belts, just getting them barely taut) Drive belt size - 10.00" Counter belt size - 8.250" This belt was so stretched out that it didn't really go over the belt guides, and the counter did not work. I used the chart on the back of the belt gauge to get the closest belt to what I measured - and that belt isn't available on the MCM site (42-1065), so I went with the next SMALLEST one (with a correct thickness), since the counter belt was all stretched out anyway. Hopefully this will help those that want to replace the belts on their Atari 1010 Hong Kong model! Here's a picture of the back of the belt gauge, just in case that helps too: I'll try to get these belts ordered and installed and then post back when I have time - it may be a while, though - I have several irons in the fire right now!
  14. One of them totally turned into a brown goo that was all sticky.. Yikes!
  15. I think I tried VICE a while back, both ways, as well as Frodo - I'll admit, though, this was on the GP2X Wiz handheld - LodeRunner is great on handhelds! I'll see if I can try it on my PC sometime soon - I don't really have it installed there since I've started using the SD2IEC and the handheld options..
  16. Hi - Nevermind! Somehow the IC's weren't coming up for me when I simply searched "2157", etc.... I see them now on the main list.
  17. After more searching online, I also found this 'vintage' product review: --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- product reviews--RAMBO XL lCD, Inc. 1220 Rock Street Rockford, IL 61101 (815) 968-2228 $49.95 (installation, $30) (256K RAM chip set, $28) Reviewed by Matthew Ratcliff The RAMBO XL is a hardware modification for the Atari 800XL or l200XL computer that turns your machine into a 256K RAM system- twice as powerful as the 130XE. RAMBO XL makes your 800XL or I200XL compatible with the 130XE in "CPU mode" for extended memory. Thus the Atari DOS 2.5 RAMdisk and BASIC XE will run on your computer after this installation. This extra memory will be primarily used as a RAMdisk, "fooling" your computer into using this extra memory as a second disk drive. However, the Atari DOS 2.5 RAMdisk only recognizes 64K of the available 192K. The 256K chip set replaces the 64K chips. It is not added to the originals, therefore the lower 64K of the 256K takes the place of the original chips. The remaining 192K is available as extended bank switch memory To make full use of the extended memory you will need a DOS that supports it. A utility on lCD's SpartaDOS Construction Set ($39.95) supports the 192K and gives you a true double-density RAMdisk. Any software that supports the extra memory of the l30XE should use 64K of the extra RAM that RAMBO XL provides. According to the documentation, the following programs have been tested to work with this modification: BASIC XE, OSS; SynFile+, Broderbund; Atari DOS 2.5 RAMdisk; PaperClip, Batteries Included. One feature not supported is the ANTIC mode, where display memory resides in one bank, accessed by the ANTIC chip while the working memory (program, data, etc.) is accessed separately in another bank by the CPU chip. This feature is unique to the Atari l30XE and its FREDDY chip. However, it is seldom used and will not be missed. After installing my RAMBO XL, I tested it thoroughly by making club disks for our ACE St. Louis user group. Using the SpartaDOS sector copy utility, with the RAMdisk option, I was able to copy from a master disk to RAM, and then from RAM to multiple destination floppies in no time. I created 15 disks that were perfect mirror copies of their originals. When used with the Covox Voice Master, which provides full l30XE support, the software automatically set up with a 130XE version. The modification has performed flawlessly since I added it to my old 800XL. Installation is another matter, however. INSTALLATION RAMBO XL requires relatively minimal soldering if your computer chips are "socketed"-plugged into chip holders instead of soldered directly to the circuit board. If the chips are soldered directly to the board-as many 800XLs are- then you should not attempt this modification unless you are an experienced "solder jockey" with access to a good desoldering station. I think all 1200XL computers were socketed. So after the computer is disassembled, it is a simple matter of prying out the old chips with a small flat blade screw driver. But you can't be sure about an 800XL until you disassemble it. The eight RAM chips on my 800XL were not socketed on my 800XL, so I had to desolder them and add sockets to the machine myself. (Being an electrical engineer, I had access to a desoldering station.) The installation involves unplugging the old RAM chips, a decoder chip and the PLA chip. Five pins on the PLA must be "bent out" and the chip is returned to its socket. You have to plug in new RAMs and a small circuit board in place of the decoder. You make one to three jumper modifications and solder 5 wires to the PLA chip. The documentation is a complete guide. Note carefully the recommended 20-35 watt ratings for your soldering iron with a fine point for electronic applications. Don't use one of those heavy duty soldering guns, unless you want to cook some RAM chips or vaporize some etch. You may wish to purchase your RAM chips from another mail order house instead of from lCD. Complete sets of 256K RAMs can be had for $20 or less, when purchased in quantity lCD does not package them with the kit because "RAM prices change faster than computer prices. Nobody wants to be caught holding a large inventory when the price drops." LCD simply keeps some RAMs in stock for those who prefer the convience of taking care of the entire upgrade in one order. So shop around, or get some friends together to make a group buy from an electronics mail order service. If you hate to get rid of the old faithful XL in favor of the XE, this kit may be just the ticket. If you are an incessant hardware tinkerer, you will have great fun with this project. If you are a SpartaDOS user, you will find RAMBO XL an invaluable addition. With a full 192K RAMdisk instead of the 64K on the 130XE, I use the 800XL in preference to the 130XE all the time. I probably find more need for a RAMDISK than most because I develop a lot of software with MAC/65, and .INCLUDE files from RAMdisk make for blazingly fast assemblies of huge source files. I will be using the RAMBO 800XL regularly until I can get my hands on a 512K modification for the 130XE. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hope this helps!
  18. I'm using nibtools to read the original disk to a .nib file, then I convert that to a .d64 to play on emulators / SD2IEC. Maybe Champ Loderunner uses a fastloader of some sort? I mean, it originally asked you to wait for 1.5 minutes, so maybe it was a slow/fastloader! http://c64preservation.com/nibtools
  19. I just popped over to look and I only saw the 2156 - am I missing the others somehow?
  20. There was my first problem! I thought something was broken! HA! That's a good bit to know!
  21. Nope! I have the original disk - just wanted it on the SD2IEC to keep from having the floppy drive on my desk! I've tried nibtools to .d64, and different disk images on the net with no luck yet.
  22. I've tried quite a few games, and if you can't get the original to work you can try a 'cracked' copy - which is usually what you find on the net anyway.. Haven't figured out how to get Championship LodeRunner working yet, but hey, that's one of the few that I've been totally unable to run on the SD2IEC.
  23. Figures I have the Hong Kong ones, but hey, they still run, so I'm thinking they are pretty hearty as well! If no one ends up finding the dimensions for the belts I'll dig up my belt gauge and post them here - once you have the sizes, belts become a lot cheaper. Back in the day working on VCR's, stereo's, turntables, etc. I rarely paid more than $3 for a single belt, and those were the big ones..
  24. Hi, I've been reading a TON of posts about the Atari 410 recorder and the belt measurements, but I can't find any info on the 1010 (I found the service manual, but that Atari part number isn't really helping). I have one that is acting strange, and while it seems to play a music tape at the correct speed, the program tape (I only have one so far) is so quiet that it's not loading. I popped it apart, and, surprise, the belts are going slack. I can't believe it's still playing, honestly. Anyway, once I get some new belts on, I'm going to try and troubleshoot the loading problem and see if I can figure out what's happening. I used to fix VCR's back in the day, and somewhere I have a belt gauge that will allow me to measure the belts - if I can ever find it, that is... That's why I'm hoping someone already knows the sizes! Thanks!
  25. Sweet! Thanks! Now I'll be able to try some stuff with this floppy drive!
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