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About DrWho198

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  1. To be honest, the PCB looks a lot different from what it used to be. It's so complicated that I feel it is missing the intent of the original design. And I'm still curious for details and workings of what you intend to do. In case this design moves too far away from Blinky's design then I would suggest calling it something else. I would love to see this project continue, but please make sure that you share information and do not drift away from what was intended (which was a simple DIY design with decent options and flexibility). If you do feel the need to take your own path then I would suggest making a new thread and linking to it in this one. But again... please share what you intend to do instead of saying 'I have this that does that and it's really cool'. Because other people would like to learn from you too, just as you did when you started following this thread. Hey, maybe they can even help you! Just to be clear: All schematics that I and blinky posted were ready to produce and work fine. Code was given and files shared. The latest version that alex_79 adapted should be the most advanced. I have not tested it myself but knowing that alex's previous adaptations were spot on gives me great confidence that his work is reliable. With the latest adaptation that blinky did to the schematics at my request, It was possible to add larger roms as long as you patched the roms to use mdmc instead of its original bankswitching. It's been a long time since I have been working on this project but i remember that we had many roms patched already and I even have a tool somewhere that patches the roms for you. I hope this project stays alive. I had a great time with it and I'm sure many other will too if the thread is not contaminated with unclear information.
  2. I'm curious about the details of his changes. I tried to read his scematics but I do not get what is connected to what. Its mostly the left part that I do not get. What I wonder is if 8k, 4k and 16k can be mixed or not. Is mdmc locked after while other bankswitching is still possible etc.... etc... I do not have much time right now and in 3 days I'm on a vacation, so checking it out further will not happen soon.
  3. I was thinking, by any chance... did you use some of the code in another project? Maybe I got part if your code another way.
  4. When I get the time I surely will compare them. If I remember correctly then I was looking for a menu and could not find one that suited me. But I did see screenshots of your menu and tried to replicate it. I do not think I ever found your source and not even the rom... the only krokodile rom I remember is the multi color bmp demo. This is all out of my head... I might be wrong. But either way, you did help. I also remember that I only had 12 characters at first. That idea and the timing of the 13th character came from another rom. maybe I did find yours in the end... all too long ago. I'll look it up when I get the chance. But thanks for the code. I'm just an amature when it comes to coding and it might be inreresting to look at.
  5. Hmm... its been a while since I wrote that menu but I think I wrote it from scratch. Although I do remember that I took the idea and look from the crocodile card. Just in case I am wrong and did take cade fron you, I am sorry. I normally do not borrow code without giving credit. Again, at least the idea of the menu was yours. Thanks for that one Thomas.
  6. @Dabliogames: The table is needed so you can add games that use bankswitching. If not you would have manu entries that jump into the middle of a game. @arturfreddy: Could you explain what logic your board uses? If you jump to a multigame, do you lock the mdmc bankswitching? If not... then how do you prevent accidental bankswitching?
  7. My latest software on the linker dumps all of my cards, but I can not test compatibility for other cards. I don't use the same software as Blinky does because he focusses on writing his own flash card. I on the other hand focus on dumping cards. My software will detect what kind of bankswitching is used and will dump the complete rom. But not much intrest has been shown by people, and at the moment I'm not working on it myself.
  8. wow... how... how many secams do you have? I wich I had one for my collection... but I can't find any at a decent price in belgium or france.
  9. I don't think it would be easy to change the signal itself. However... as you mention yourself. These pots are most likely inside your television. And some newer CRT tv's have a software menu that is hidden to change this aswell. You should look up your specific model and/or brand of tv and look if it has service menu's. Watch out thouch... some settings in those menus could screw up the picture. Alternativly you could go for a CRT monitor. These have these settings accessible more easily.
  10. Long time ago I once baught some arcade parts from the internet. I think it was from Ultimac: http://www.ultimarc.com/store/section.php?xSec=9&xPage=1&jssCart=c4fb63c2e072ab1ed5efd42a7bacf4dc I'm pretty sure you can get harnasses cheaper, but ultimac is a trusted seller. I would say Google is your friend. And while you are at it walk on by eBay. You might find something in the price/quality range that you are looking for. But ask youself: Do you really need a full "arcade" harness for a supergun? Wouldn't you pay too much for all the extra wire? Your PCB is going to sit close to the other parts anyway so unless you shorten the harness, you will have a lot of wire that needs to be stuffed away. I would just buy a jamma connector from ebay.
  11. External? If you mean hooking something up between the secam atari and a NTSC tv then you can scratch this option. There is no way ti get NTSC colors out of a PAL or SECAM atari. For people who wonder why someone does not just buy a NTSC atari instead of looking at the option to mod one, I'll give you a short explanation. 1) Although a NTSC atari can be baught cheap from the US, shipping it to europe costs you a lot of money. Once you import it you have to pay even more as taxes are calculated on the value of the object+shipping. 2) It is interesting to see what is the essential difference between different region consoles. I have a NTSC atari, but it did not come cheap.
  12. I'm glad that you understood what I meant. I do not consider a 32X game to be a Mega Drive/Genesis game. But I can appreciate them in their separate category. If you can get this working then that would be wondefull. I can imagine something like this being released as a explanation unit with its own games. Maybe adding a bit more memory and other bells and whistles to get thing really going. I hope you get the hardware working, because I would love to see this running on real hardware.
  13. Nice, I'm impressed by the results. Yet I feel like this can not be compaired to a traditional Atari game. It's nice as a tech experiment but I don't feel like it's the Atari's work showing these images. For me it is starting to get in line with the super gameboy. A device that feeds the graphics to the console and does all the work itself. If you look at it a bit sceptical then you are modding the A2600. Maybe it is more like an expansion unit. Still a nice project though, but it's more of an hardware than software breakthrough. I guess it's up to the user to decide what keeps him/her attracted to the 2600. And if games ever get released with this technology then I hope they will be marked with a symbol that shows they are using it. Because as a collector I would avoid it. As a tech junky I love it.
  14. The problem is that not all boards output at the same level of sound. That's why they put the switch there. hatver you do, I wouldn't go for the speake you showed. Those are used in phones and toys and give a terrible sound. If you go for arcade boards then you want a nice sound. And if you are afraid of blowing anything then its a good practice to turn down the volume on the board before turning it of. Then gently turn it up until the right level.
  15. You mean a working x-man rom? Thats not hard to find. I'll send it to you later.
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