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Posts posted by Kroko
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/OE Output enable pin 22 goes to the input of the inverter The output of the inverter goes to a12 on the cart portYou have to connect A12 on the cartridge edge connector to the INPUT of your inverter and connect the inverters OUTPUT to /OE of your chip.
If you mix this, you will most likely create a permanent bus conflict and I don't know how long a can 2600 survive that.

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I need pcbs for the carts. There, now you know. All I need to know are the names of some good companies where I can get cart PCB's made cheaply. What does divulging my plans to you have to do with their pricing?Well, you don't need to describe your board if you don't want to. But in that case I can't judge whats best for your needs. Price is not everything in my opinion. There are lots of board parameters that are important to decide which manufacturer fits to your needs best.
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What's are some good places to get new cart PCB's made? What are their minimum order sizes? Do I have to provide them with the PCB layout in one of those PCB design software formats or can I just give them a PCB I already have and tell them to copy it? What else do I need to ask them? No, the ones in the AtariAge store won't work for what I want.I don't know any PCB manufacturer who copies existing boards. You have to provide them with some PCB Design Software format.
If you only order a few pieces, they will be much more expensive than what you can buy here at AA. They start to get cheap if you order high quantities. But before you can do that, you need to check your design with at least one Prototype. And Prototypes are in general very expensive compared to the AA Boards.
But of course it is difficult to say anything unless you tell us what you actually want to do
Armin
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ugh .... i was just confused ....
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Are you sure you know what you're talking about?I guess so

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Top D3 D4 D5 D6 D7 A11 A10 A12 A9 A8 +5V SGND --1- --2- --3- --4- --5- --6- --7- --8- --9- -10- -11- -12- GND D2 D1 D0 A0 A1 A2 A3 A4 A5 A6 A7 Bottom
Unfortunately there is a little but important error in the diagramm above.
The Pinout actually is like this:
Top D3 D4 D5 D6 D7 A12 A10 A11 A9 A8 +5V SGND --1- --2- --3- --4- --5- --6- --7- --8- --9- -10- -11- -12- GND D2 D1 D0 A0 A1 A2 A3 A4 A5 A6 A7 Bottom
Which means A11 and A12 are interchanged in the original version. I don't know
if this is what went wrong, but I guess it could be

Armin
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Maybe a stupid question, but which EPROM type are you using now ? What is programmed on this EPROM ? Did you verify that the EPROM really contains what it should ? And finally, which Atari cart did you use for your experiments ? Can you post a picture of what you have finally done ?
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Well, finally some good news. I can most likely start to build new carts mid of december. Or at least I can order the parts and the PCBs there. So I would think that they could be available end of january or february. I can't promise anything, but it doesn't look so bad. As soon as I know it for sure I will post it in the Krokodile Cartridge thread.Very cool. I'm looking forward to getting mine.

You are on top of the list of course

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Well, finally some good news. I can most likely start to build new carts mid of december. Or at least I can order the parts and the PCBs there. So I would think that they could be available end of january or february. I can't promise anything, but it doesn't look so bad. As soon as I know it for sure I will post it in the Krokodile Cartridge thread.
However, it will be a Krokodile-Free Christmas

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While reading this, I thought about the two solutions for inverters:
Chip Inverter (e.g. 74HCT04): costs about 10ct and you need to solder 16 pins but you only have to handle one part. (only 7 pins have to be connected, so in theory you would only have to solder 7 pins)
Transistor solution (e.g. 2N3904): costs about 5 ct together with the 2 resistors,
but you have to handle 3 parts and you also have to solder 7 pins.
The space needed on a pcb is (almost) the same.
Does anybody have an idea which solution is more reliable or creates less noise ?
Armin
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How would I connect a PC directly to an Atari 2600 system? I have been given a project that requires me to build a software control suite for the Atari 2600 system over TCP/IP - or, more simply, a GUI that has "up", "down", "left", "right", and "trigger" buttons that will control the atari when pressed.Does it really have to be TCP/IP ? Or would the printer port be ok, too ? It sounds like overkill to control just a few TTL lines with a protocol like TCP/IP ?!
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when the stack pointer is pointing to the first byte of ram, what value is actually in the stack pointer? $00 or $80?If you want the stack pointer to point to VCS memory location $80, then you have to write $80 to SP.
(is it the actual location or an offset from $80?)Don't get confused. It is just an ordinary pointer. It points to the adress thats is in it. Nothing special here.
if it is an offset, what is the affect of setting the most significant bit to 1? would %10000000 also point to the first byte in ram?It is not an offset and you access the adress that it points to. So you will access the TIA if the MSB is 0 and RAM if the MSB is 1
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But, I can't get Congo Bongo or Sir Lancelot to work.Both for Congo Bongo and for Sir Lancelot, there are bad dumps out there. I have added a "Bad Dump List" to the Krokodile Commander. If you select such a Dump, it will display a warning. Currently only the two mentioned dumps are on the list. I will add any bad dumps that I come across in future Commander revisions.
When building a multicart, the Krokodile Commander software allows (illegal?) characters such as "'", ".", "!" and "*" to be entered in the Menu NameShould be fixed in revision 1.06
Also under the Multicart tab, there is a button to "Load all files from selected directory", which only loads 5 F8 ROMs of the 63 files in the directory I'm working on (all of which are either 4K or F8).Should be fixed in revision 1.06
Finally, the circuit board and its built-in "keys" are slightly too long; the keys extend beyond the end of the cart case a bit, so they could be vulnerable to accidental breakage.DO NOT drive over it with your car please
. Its not designed for things like that. If you use it normally, the teeth will not get damaged. But if I should ever make a redesign, I can assure you it will fit in a cart case with almost no modifications and it will not have teeth.Here is the latest Revision: Krokodile Cartridge Website
If you are interested, all changes are described in the revision history.
Armin
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Well, some flash memory chips require a distinct /CS pulse for each byte of memory that's readTo be honest, I have never heard of a flash chip that needs distinct /CS pulses. Which company makes crap like that ?
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I am no longer 100% sure that the above alternate F8 bankswitching will work
on all F8 boards that are available.
When we discussed this, I was only taking into account the way the F8 switching is done on the Krokodile Cartridge.
Now that I have thought about how to do a bankswitching board without clocked logic, I have doubts, that the above method really always works. I also had a look at the schematics from existing discrete F8 boards.
Here is the problem:
The Krokodile detects a change of adress lines, but a F8 board does not (necessarily) do that.
A F8 board could detect a hit of the hotspot area. If the hotspot area is hit, it loads the external capacitor and waits until the voltage has reached the "high" level. If the hotspot area is still hit after this delay, it clocks A0 into the bank register.
So if we hit the hotspot area twice in a row, we will most likely get only one rising edge of the "hotspot" detector which means we are only switching once.
I have no idea, how all the F8 boards out there work, but at least I fear there is a great risk, that the above code will not work on some of them.
The above method would only work on F8 boards, that can also clock A0 into the bankswitching register after a change of A0 within the hotspot area. Unfortunately I have not seen a schematic yet, that does it like that.
Has anybody tested the alternate F8 method on different F8 boards, yet ?
Armin
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Very nice menu

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The Pot is inside the metal housing in the center. This metal housing has 3 holes in it. Under the leftmost hole, you will find the pot and you can correct the color with a screwdriver. It is not the top and not the bottom hole, it is middle left. All my light sixers have this hole, but they are all PAL. Maybe NTSC is different ?!
Armin
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As an update, I plugged in the 2600 power supply into the KK, then I ran the 7800. Same result, played last game on the list, in mine, is Vault Assault.I bought a 7800 on e-bay yesterday. I hope it works and maybe I can find out what the problem is on the 7800

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I will make more, but not in the very near future. The best you can do is to contact Albert and join the waiting list. The number of new devices will also depend on how many people are on that list.
I know that quite some people are waiting for more devices, but unfortunately I am not able to give you a date, yet
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Just a guess, but would the 7800 checking stuff around $FFF9 or so to identify a 7800 cart cause a game selection?No, that can not cause a problem. The ROM selection is not done by accessing these locations. The ROM selection hotspot is $3F in multicart mode.
I have asked this question before, but could you please connect an external power supply to the Krokodile and watch if the behaviour is changed somehow ?
I will watch e-bay a little. Maybe I can get a cheap 7800
I feel better if it doesn't matter in case I destroy it.

Krokodile Cartridge
in Atari 2600
Posted
I will start to make devices and send them to Albert. He will offer these devices to the people on the waiting list - first come first serve. I am planning to make enough devices that we can offer them in the store this time. But that depends on how many people want to buy it. The device will not be in the store as long as people on the list don't have their devices. After that, it will be in the store, but I can't tell you when this will be. There will not be any pre-ordering this time.