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About thecrypticodor

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    Chopper Commander
  • Birthday 12/28/1985

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  1. Why go through all this trouble and headache just buy a 5.5 mm x 2.1mm panel mount barrel connector and wire it up for the same polarity as the common as dirt Genesis model 1 power supply and be done with it. Especially if you’re just gonna end up AV modding your system anyway. Life to short to deal with proprietary and uncommon connector nonsense. https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-5-5-mm-x-2-1mm-DC-Power-Jack-Socket-Female-Panel-Mount-Connector/280861579410?epid=20005821423&hash=item4164a79892:g:HXgAAMXQKq5R502z
  2. That happened with one of my LCD’s a Phillips. It was a while back but what worked for me was making my own av cable with either a 75 ohm resistor that was in line with the video line or connected to the video line to ground or it could have been both with two 75 ohm resistors. It was about five years ago so I don’t remember exactly.
  3. Just because your power supply is reading the correct voltages doesn’t mean that it’s not the problem. The power supply is filled with electrolytic filter capacitors that could have failed leaving behind excessive RFI and ripple in your output voltages. I have repaired about 5 or so CV power supplies and even in cases where the supply still worked their electrolytic's hardly ever checked in spec on my ESR meter so changing them out is definitely not a bad move.
  4. That's the LM318 mod. That mod board is only for video. The audio should just be a wire that runs from a solder point either from the RF modulator or pin 7 of the SN6489AN to the audio jack.
  5. The original switch boxes were meant for televisions of the time that mostly only had 300 ohm antenna input terminals so the switch box had a balun in it for impedance matching. Newer TV’s have a 75 ohm input so a matching transformer is not necessary. You’ll see a lot of old switch boxes that have a 300 ohm to 75 ohm F-type matching transformer attached to them for when televisions made the switch over to 75 ohm F-type RF inputs. So they were now converting 75 to 300 and than back to 75 again.
  6. Hyperkin and Yobo always have shit NOAC’s. Retro-bit is the only one of these companies that use decent ones. Retro-bit is coming out with their own HDMI version. If it uses the same NOAC as their their RES, Duo and Trio clones it's going to be the better option, although I'm sure it too will just be upscaled composite.
  7. Sometimes you can get lucky and pop the plastic apart enough to start prying by applying pressure around the seem. I’ve also done it by sticking a flat blade screwdriver in between the slot for the strain relief and gently prying. It's more likely than not you're gonna do some damage to the housing, but what’s more important it working or looking pretty.
  8. I'd bet it's the power supply. All the CV powers supplies that I've worked on that had it's original capacitors were always out of spec. I've resurrected quite a few CV power supplies by simply just recapping them.
  9. Bloodborne - PS4 Billy Hatcher and the Giant Egg - Gamecube Pressure Cooker - 2600
  10. Pressure Cooker Pitfall II Moonsweeper Gravitar H.E.R.O. River Raid II Moon Patrol Joust Ms. Pac-man Qbert
  11. Every model 2110K has the VA4 board revision. They're never worth bothering with as they almost always have dead columns. Even if you re-solder all of those pins more often than not at least one of those five LCD driver IC's have failed. If you're buying a Game Gear always look at the model number on the back If it's a 2110K pass on it.
  12. Sometimes cleaning with rubbing alcohol and q-tips isn’t enough. Some carts pins are so dirty and tarnished you need to open the cart and use a pink eraser to properly clean them. I replaced my 72 pin with a after market one six years back and when fed a properly cleaned cart it will work mostly on the first try. At worst never needing more than a little side to side wiggle of the cart.
  13. Original Mattel INTV supplies have rated outputs of 16.2 and 16.7. So 16.2V sounds good to me. I don't think you measured the amperage right. To test amps with a multieter you need to have to put the red probe inserted into the amp socket on the multimeter and have it inline with the adapter with a load. I don't suggest you worry about doing that. You don't have to worry about the amp output as the system should only draw what it needs. As long as the adapter is supplying at least 1 amp or over it's fine. If the the problem doesn't reoccur with your original supply I say just use that one and forget about the new one.
  14. Standard television interface chip STIC is like the INTV's GPU it’s what renders the graphics. If your original power supply connector is corroded inside and is making poor contact just roll up a piece of sand paper a sand the inside of the barrel. If you don't get a good connection after that than the connector needs to be replaced.
  15. 16V 1a is pretty damn close to the original 16.2V 950ma. It doesn’t say on there whether it’s output is AC or DC but since it obviously a switch mode supply it's going to be DC. Although that doesn’t matter since INTV II has a internal rectifier. Could be the PSU is just defective and isn’t staying in regulation. If you have or know someone with a multimeter you can check it's output voltage. I had the same symptom when the STIC IC failed on one of my Intellivisions. It would play for a half hour or so until the chip started to get ridiculously hot and than the system would crash. It would than crash again almost immediately until I allowed the chip to cool than it would work again for another half hour or so. I replaced it with another STIC IC from a parts system and I was back in business. So I would try leaving the system on with it’s original adapter for a few hours and than see if crashes.
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