thecrypticodor

Why go through all this trouble and headache just buy a 5.5 mm x 2.1mm panel mount barrel connector and wire it up for the same polarity as the common as dirt Genesis model 1 power supply and be done with it. Especially if you’re just gonna end up AV modding your system anyway. Life to short to deal with proprietary and uncommon connector nonsense. https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-5-5-mm-x-2-1mm-DC-Power-Jack-Socket-Female-Panel-Mount-Connector/280861579410?epid=20005821423&hash=item4164a79892:g:HXgAAMXQKq5R502z

That happened with one of my LCD’s a Phillips. It was a while back but what worked for me was making my own av cable with either a 75 ohm resistor that was in line with the video line or connected to the video line to ground or it could have been both with two 75 ohm resistors. It was about five years ago so I don’t remember exactly.

Just because your power supply is reading the correct voltages doesn’t mean that it’s not the problem. The power supply is filled with electrolytic filter capacitors that could have failed leaving behind excessive RFI and ripple in your output voltages. I have repaired about 5 or so CV power supplies and even in cases where the supply still worked their electrolytic's hardly ever checked in spec on my ESR meter so changing them out is definitely not a bad move.

That's the LM318 mod. That mod board is only for video. The audio should just be a wire that runs from a solder point either from the RF modulator or pin 7 of the SN6489AN to the audio jack.

The original switch boxes were meant for televisions of the time that mostly only had 300 ohm antenna input terminals so the switch box had a balun in it for impedance matching. Newer TV’s have a 75 ohm input so a matching transformer is not necessary. You’ll see a lot of old switch boxes that have a 300 ohm to 75 ohm F-type matching transformer attached to them for when televisions made the switch over to 75 ohm F-type RF inputs. So they were now converting 75 to 300 and than back to 75 again.

Hyperkin and Yobo always have shit NOAC’s. Retro-bit is the only one of these companies that use decent ones. Retro-bit is coming out with their own HDMI version. If it uses the same NOAC as their their RES, Duo and Trio clones it's going to be the better option, although I'm sure it too will just be upscaled composite.

Sometimes you can get lucky and pop the plastic apart enough to start prying by applying pressure around the seem. I’ve also done it by sticking a flat blade screwdriver in between the slot for the strain relief and gently prying. It's more likely than not you're gonna do some damage to the housing, but what’s more important it working or looking pretty.

I'd bet it's the power supply. All the CV powers supplies that I've worked on that had it's original capacitors were always out of spec. I've resurrected quite a few CV power supplies by simply just recapping them.

Bloodborne - PS4 Billy Hatcher and the Giant Egg - Gamecube Pressure Cooker - 2600

Pressure Cooker Pitfall II Moonsweeper Gravitar H.E.R.O. River Raid II Moon Patrol Joust Ms. Pac-man Qbert

Every model 2110K has the VA4 board revision. They're never worth bothering with as they almost always have dead columns. Even if you re-solder all of those pins more often than not at least one of those five LCD driver IC's have failed. If you're buying a Game Gear always look at the model number on the back If it's a 2110K pass on it.

Sometimes cleaning with rubbing alcohol and q-tips isn’t enough. Some carts pins are so dirty and tarnished you need to open the cart and use a pink eraser to properly clean them. I replaced my 72 pin with a after market one six years back and when fed a properly cleaned cart it will work mostly on the first try. At worst never needing more than a little side to side wiggle of the cart.

Original Mattel INTV supplies have rated outputs of 16.2 and 16.7. So 16.2V sounds good to me. I don't think you measured the amperage right. To test amps with a multieter you need to have to put the red probe inserted into the amp socket on the multimeter and have it inline with the adapter with a load. I don't suggest you worry about doing that. You don't have to worry about the amp output as the system should only draw what it needs. As long as the adapter is supplying at least 1 amp or over it's fine. If the the problem doesn't reoccur with your original supply I say just use that one and forget about the new one.

Standard television interface chip STIC is like the INTV's GPU it’s what renders the graphics. If your original power supply connector is corroded inside and is making poor contact just roll up a piece of sand paper a sand the inside of the barrel. If you don't get a good connection after that than the connector needs to be replaced.

16V 1a is pretty damn close to the original 16.2V 950ma. It doesn’t say on there whether it’s output is AC or DC but since it obviously a switch mode supply it's going to be DC. Although that doesn’t matter since INTV II has a internal rectifier. Could be the PSU is just defective and isn’t staying in regulation. If you have or know someone with a multimeter you can check it's output voltage. I had the same symptom when the STIC IC failed on one of my Intellivisions. It would play for a half hour or so until the chip started to get ridiculously hot and than the system would crash. It would than crash again almost immediately until I allowed the chip to cool than it would work again for another half hour or so. I replaced it with another STIC IC from a parts system and I was back in business. So I would try leaving the system on with it’s original adapter for a few hours and than see if crashes.

Never had that happen to me. I did most of mine in the early 2000's and they're still perfect. I've seen guides that say to cut out squares around the domes in the original tape and that definitely would cause movement and poor adhesion of the new tape. You need to remove all of the original tape and re-wrap the the board, Also adding a thin layer of dialectic grease will held retard future corrosion of the metal contact surfaces.

Honestly I never understood the appeal of buying replacement PCB's. All you need to do is pull up the old tape clean the board and contacts than just tape back down the dome switches with packing tape. I've done this to a half a dozen CX-40’s over the years and they always function like new afterward. Even if the dome switches are worn out it's not hard to find replacements. http://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-metal-dome-switch-tactile.html?spm=2114.01010208.0.52.cKB2Hf&site=glo&SearchText=metal+dome+switch+tactile&g=y&SortType=price_asc&groupsort=1&initiative_id=SB_20160807081704&shipCountry=us

I’ve never used this mod kit so I have no ideal what each color represents or even if they’re are soldered into the correct vias. It should be printed on the PCB what wire is for what. The vias for the modulator go from left to right so the leftmost is ground the center is +5V and right is for video.

1 gnd 2 +5V 3 Video There's no channel switch on the heavy sixer and the RF jack is on the modulator itself that's why there's two less pins.

A US SNES is rated for 10v 850ma DC. The SNES uses a 7805 voltage regulator that knocks the voltage down to 5V which is what the system actually runs off of. So anything with a voltage with between 7 to 12V is fine. Amperage should be equal or exceed the rating of the original supply. Excess amperage won't hurt the system as it will only draw as much current as it needs. Aside from RFI/EMI noise those supplies make they are perfectly fine for the SNES. Not so much for early revisions of the model 1 Genesis they really need at least 1 amp.

I shared that simple transistor mod to OSH park a while back you can order bare boards there. A minimum of three will be something like $3 https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/DOX9VkSV

Goodwills usually have stacks of them.

For pre-third gen stuff a easycap is also another option. You can get them for under $10 and they support Composite and S-Video so all you would need is a VCR to convert RF to composite. Here's a quick capture of my S-Video modded 2600 captured through one. pitfallII.mp4

You could always just use RCA Y cables to split and audio/video signal you want.