thecrypticodor

If you can post some pictures of your mod board and your Atari it would make troubleshooting your problem a lot easier. When you left out the 75 ohm you didn't just connect ground to the emitter of your 2N2222 did you? Here's a better diagram of the circuit you are trying to build.

There's only two pre manufactured boards that you can buy right now the simple transistor amplifier mod http://www.vintagegamingandmore.com/products-page-2/modsservicekits/atari-26007800-mod-kit/ and the S-Video mod http://electronicsentimentalities.com/Assembled%20Mods.html A. The mod with the best video output is the S-Video mod. Your TV of course has to support S-Video and sadly most don't. Although the transistor mod isn't perfect it's generally much better than what you're gonna get with RF. B. The video quality of the transistor mod will vary depending on the TV you are using. C. You're not really gonna find anything any easier. The S-Video mod however is a bit more complicated and requires more soldering. D. I've used both mods and that simple transistor mod generally has the best compatibility rate of any mod that I've tested. So far it has worked on every TV that I've tested it on. The S-Video mod however has not.

Do you have a switching power supply plugged in like a laptop charger? Switching power supplies can create radio noise that can create interfere with a RF video source.

I've been using this 1982 Sony Trinitron KV-1913 for my second gen systems. Over 30 years old and still going strong. Coincidently I have a Intellivsion II hooked up to it and It's the exact same television pictured on the side of it's box.

Sadly in my case it is the sensor. I checked and ruled out the other components. I have read the previous postings on the subject, and there's nothing really there that's of any real help. It makes me cringe at the thought of having to have to throw them away. Yet It's hard to justify keeping them if I can't restore their functionality.

That'd be a bit overkill IMO. There's not a lot of components involved in the original PCB and completely rebuilding them would be simple if one could get their hands on a replacement encoder. If you want to run it off a ac adapter you could always just stick a 7806 in it and run it off something like a 9-12v adapter.

It wouldn't surprise me if this has been discussed here before ad nauseum. A google search on this subject has yeiled me no viable solution. I have a few dead wheels with bad encoders that I would really like to resurrect. So does there exist a suitable optical rotary encoder replacement for the expansion module 2?

This one http://wiki.intellivision.us/index.php?title=Intellivision_Composite_Video_Modification I haven't seen this other one before can any one vouch for it?

Common Games For Your Intellivision you know you love the Intellivision version of Donkey Kong. It's probably plugged into your Intellivision right now still slightly warm from a long play session. I'd bet that not only is it one of your favorite Intellivision games but one of your favorite games of all time in general.

Come on guys Donkey Kong isn't all that bad. It's a very lazy effort by Coleco but the only thing that's really wrong with it is the jumping is wonky. Other than that it's playable and it's better than the 2600 version IMO.

Yeah but than there's still Venture. Venture for the Intellivsion is one of my favorite games on the system. IMO it's even better than the ColecoVision version.

Yeah I didn't plan on using the switch a lot anyway. It's just nice to have if I really need to play Venture or Donkey Kong on it (I hate Carnival so that one is a non issue). I have a couple original models and if doing this eventually screws it up it would suck but not be the end of the world. Anyway thanks for the info.

I believe I get some of what your saying. I don't understand programing language so please correct me if I got it wrong. The Intellivision II Exec checks for a value to determine a year between 78-82 for it's built in title copyrite screen. Coleco didn't use the built title screen so therefore they didn't bother assigning a value for it. Which causes a infinite loop when the exec check for it. Shorting out those two pins breaks the infinite loop and some how in the process creates a value of 78 for the year.

I recently acquired a Intellivision II and performed the compatibly mod for early Coleco releases. http://www94.pair.com/jsoper/intv2_cmod.html And I was curious if anybody has any ideal as to why exactly this works. Also if doing this could be potentially harmful to the system.

Awesome! thank you very much pboland. I'll just cover the print out with packaging tape than cut it out. That will give it sort of a lamented look.

That would be awesome. I tried a Google search that yielded no results. I have three CV's none of which have their stickers.

Yeah the current Intellivison composite mod stinks on ice. I tried it before and it looked horrible on most of my televisions. Maybe in the future someone will develop something better. For now you'll get a better picture just using a coaxial cable and a ferrite choke.

Does anybody have a scan of the service sticker? It shouldn't be difficult all all to print it out. It's only black text after all.

They have plenty of these. http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Artesyn-Embedded-Technologies/LPT24/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvAvBNgSS9Lqq57M0Wa%252byDO They're too big to fit inside a ColecoVision. So you'd have to make an external brick with it. I have one I got cheap and it will work. You just have to ground both heat sinks together with a piece of wire or you'll get a ton of noise in your video.

That supply is this one http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=CFM40T-01virtualkey14670000virtualkey418-CFM40T-01 and it's like $40

Final Fantasy IX PS1 River Raid Colecovision Pitfall II Colecovision

Is the plastic stronger on them over the originals? The plastic on the original paddles would chip and crack if you looked at them the wrong way. That would be the only benefit over just cleaning or replacing the pots on a original pair that I can think of.

I'd have to go with the CV version although the A8 version a very nice as well. That Windows version looks fun but is ugly as sin.

Could be the Audio is out of alignment with the video there are two potentiometers in the modulator that your can try adjusting. o The CV is one of the easiest consoles to composite mod so you can do it your self for almost nothing following this schematic. Or you can test the audio spot mention in the schematic to verify whether or not the chip is at fault.

Your not trying to use a automatic swichbox like one from a NES or Genesis are you? Some people don't realize this but the RF signal that second gen consoles generate is not strong enough to fully trigger a automatic switchbox.