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Stephen Moss

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About Stephen Moss

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    Stargunner
  • Birthday 12/20/1970

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    Male
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    Cambridge, United Kingdom
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    American Football, Golf, Electronics, Programming, Sci-Fi, Indoor Climbing

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  1. Sorry, I remember seeing this with a day or tow of it being posted and forgot to reply. I have only use them from two manufactures, Warth who I believe originally developed them and Burgquist. I don't think Warth exist anymore but both worked well, after that which you get depends on several things.... 1) Conductivity, if in doubt get electrically isolating rather than conducting 2) Shape, you can get them in pre-cut shapes for many common package outlines or a sheet if you want create your own 3) Thermal resistance/conductivity, generally the higher the power dissipation the lower the resistance/greater conductance you need, you could do the math but I generally just go for the best available as it is better to be overrated for maximum effect than underrated. 4) Adhesion, some have a sticky side that allow you to stick them to the component (or heatsink) to help keep them in place during assemble.
  2. If you have not already done so there are several videos on You Tube on how to solder, you might want to watch 2 or 3 different ones as some will be better than others.. Essentially you need to put a dab of solder onto the tip (just enough to coat it, not a big blob), place the tip in contact with both the component leg and the PCB pad and leave it for two or three seconds for the heat to penetrate, apply the solder to the point where the tip meets the PCB from the opposite side of the component leg to the tip itself until it flows completely around the joint. A good joint should be relatively shiny and concave, some of those in the image look a little dull and spherical which usually means the solder has adhered only to the component leg and may at best be making incidental contact with the solder pad. If you are using a standard desolder pump to remove the solder try placing it on the opposite side of the joint to soldering iron tip at about 45 degrees, you have to remove the tip and tilt the desolder pump over the joint and press the button almost in one simultaneous movement. Many beginners take to long between removing the soldering iron and sucking away the solder allowing the solder to cool enough that it cannot be removed. That can result in many attempts remove the solder which can case eventually cause damage to the PCB. You might want to consider purchasing a small piece of prototyping board or finding an old scrap PCB to practice soldering/desoldering on
  3. No, those pin numbers are incorrect... Pin1 is Top Left Pin 7 Bottom Left Pin 8 Bottom Right Pin 14 Top Right Often there is a little indentation in the top of the case near one corner or the centre of one end and pin 1 is locate to the left of that, if you cannot see one then on rectangular device with the text horizontal and reading left to right pin 1 should be the bottom left corner and the pin numbers increase in a counterclockwise direction.
  4. If you do not need the tack propertied is the past to hold the heatsink on (clipped on) then you might want to consider using a thermal pad instead. I tend to use them wherever I can instead of the paste as it is less messy and does not dry out and deteriorate over time like the paste does.
  5. A black screen with a lit power LED rather than the Red Screen of Death suggest that it may be getting as far as passing the cartridge checksum test. Are you getting a good 5V supply from the main power regulator when it is misbehaving?
  6. Personally, I would be inclined to use a small piece of wire and touch it between pins 14 & 11 of U6 to switch on and between pins 7 & 11 to switch off, that always works for me. I think the Power connections shown in that image are for supplying to the flex circuit not for powering the Lynx on/off.
  7. I don't know but if there is I doubt it would be easy without damaging the paper, a web search for the term "foxing" may provide a possible solution.
  8. I recall having trouble with the GUI thing, although possible not that and gave up as I found the command line more reliable. One problem the Skunboard has under Windows 10 is a missing USB driver, which may be related to your problem. If you are using windows 10 and have not already done so use Zadig and install the libusb-win32 (v1.2.6.0) to get the Skunkboard talking to your PC and see if that helps. You might have to restart after installing for it to work.
  9. Sad news. I did not know Curt but I am well aware of the work he did collecting, archiving and making available stuff from Atari that would other wise have been lost and work on the hardware side. I hope all that hard work, dedication and enthusiasm is not lost following his passing.
  10. You could try re-soldering all the joints, you might have a dry joint somewhere that is prevent in the cart form working.
  11. If you are looking for something you can plus a SCART and Audio jack into that combines the Video input from the SCRAT and Audio from the Jack and outputs both on a SCART then it is not something I have ever come across, probably because there is not enough demand, or of it does exist it will be part of some expensive audio/video editing system. It is not clear to me if by "breaks out to a SCART connector you mean a socket or a cable with a plug on it, same with the audio output. Either way I would suggest getting a SCART to SCART and Audio Jack to Audio Jack (of the applicable size, 6.25mm or 3.5mm) cable and modify them as necessary rather than messing with the existing cables or the inside of the device. Particularly if you are not experience in such things as you don't want to damage the original.
  12. The red "variable" knobs allows you to adjust the seconds/volts per division away from the "calibrated" value set by the black dial. Personally I have never understood why you would want to do that as once adjusted away from the calibrated value any measurement will be in accurate as you no longer know what the seconds/volts per division are. The only time it makes sense to adjust away from the calibrated value is if your graticule has 10% & 90% markings on it (yours does not), as then you use the variable to adjust the square wave amplitude to 100% relative to the 10% & 90% marking and can then measure the rise time between the 10 and 90% markings. If your scope follows tradition the red knobs should be turned as far as the will go to the right, once there they are in the "Calibrated" position and the seconds/volts per division should match those set by the black dial. Generally, when in the "Calibrated" position indicator on the red knob would be horizontal and on the right. I really hated scope that had that feature at work as the hamfisted undergrads students would fiddle with it and keep trying to turn it beyond the (usually indented) stop, sometimes breaking the stop so that it just went around and around but nearly always altering the position of the knob on the shaft so the the pointer on the knob did not line up the the indicated Calibrated position when it was set to the correct position. Try gently turning the Red knob the the left and then back to the right until it stops, when it comes to a stop while turning to the right it should be in the calibrated position, if the line position indicator on the knob is not horizontal (or in your preferred position) then the knob may have turned on the shaft, you will need a small Allen (Hex) key to loosen the grub screw so you can rotate the knob to the correct position. The adjustments on the Probe are usually only for when it is used in the x10 position, you may notice that when displaying a with a square wave with the probe in its x10 setting the the corners are either rounded or have under/over shoot (extends beyond the top/bottom edges of the waveform). If necessary, you use the adjustment on the probe to make adjustment until the corners of the square wave look square (90 degrees). However, once performed such an adjustment is only guaranteed to be correct when that probe is match with that specific channel on that specific scope, as the input impedance and capacitance of other channels may vary slightly. That bottom image in your last post looks to me like a square wave connected via a badly adjusted probe set on x10 or the input is set to AC coupling instead of DC.
  13. If you probe was set to x10 then that would give a measurement of about 7.5V @ 0.5V/Div so not to far off but how certain are you that your 9V source was actually 9V to start with by verifying it with a multi-meter first? If it is 9V, it is possible you may be dropping a little due to dirty switch contacts, always good with old mechanical switches to give the blast of switch/contact cleaner occasionally if you can access them. As for not seeing the square wave it may not be outputting any signal, you may not have been making good contact or they may be a on/off button for it somewhere.
  14. Well unless I am going blind I cannot find a C36 on the Lynx1 Schematics I have, but on the Lynx2 schmematic it is a 0.01uF (10nF) capacitor, probably ceramic, you will have to measure for the package size but I think it will be 804.
  15. Found another PCB image online and from that it looks like the capacitor is connected across the Source & Gate junctions of Q10. The problem with surface mount chip capacitors is it is not always easy to tell what they are made of or what value it is unless it is written on them, neither of which you can be certain of without a schematic diagram & associated parts list. Personally, I think it will probably be a small 0.1uF (100nF) ceramic decoupling capacitor which you should be able to get from most electronic component retailers (i.e. mouser, Newark, Farnell, RS) but you will need to measure it to get one the correct physical package size, to me it looks like it will be an 804. Maybe before you buy one you should try the controller as it may work well enough without it.
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