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Stephen Moss

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About Stephen Moss

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    Stargunner
  • Birthday 12/20/1970

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    Male
  • Location
    Cambridge, United Kingdom
  • Interests
    American Football, Golf, Electronics, Programming, Sci-Fi, Indoor Climbing

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  1. I think the only difference between a PAL and NTSC Jaguar is a resistor somewhere that pulls a pin high or low. You should do a forum search as I am sure there is information on this already here, some people fit a switch so that can flip between PAL and NTSC as required. Again, I am sure you will find information on how to do that is already here somewhere as well.
  2. I don't know for certain but I'm was thinking the same as keithbk, either a retail or public/industry expo demo cart to try before you buy.
  3. I am sure more knowledgeable people like Zerosquare or CyranoJ can provide a definitive answer but personally I would think that without a cart it would fail the checksum which should result in the Red Screen of Death.
  4. I think that in the US there are two possible channels. However, in the UK there was a free channel (IIRC 38) that all equipment designed to output an RF signal via an RF cable was required to use. So Games consoles & VCR's sold in the UK all output their RF on that one channel which is why the different systems you have all work on the same channel. For those that are not working they are either broken, NTSC or non UK PAL as there are several different PAL formats. As I recall European PAL uses a different carrier frequency for the audio so if you have one of those you may get video without sound once it is tuned in. However, I am not sure if the non UK PAL formats also used the same broadcast channel (frequency) as in the UK, so if they are non UK PAL units then you may need to re-tune to another channel to use them.
  5. I have both, it has been a while since I gave them a spin but as I recall... Caves of Fear was essentially a technical demo/proof of concept for showing how the Game film format works, it is short (about 10 minutes) but it is also complete in that it does not crash like American Hero. I personally feel it has a lot of similarities to American Hero and that given the scene content I think those scenes may have been a later sections of the American Hero plot, just that made with some cheap local actors before investing finances on making American Hero it with known actors. IIRC American Hero has more scenes than caves of fear but the CD that Stone put out over a decade ago is unfinished so it can crash a lot, particularly when you take an action that leads to a scene that does not exit on the disc. I am sure I have spent 30-40 minutes in one session playing as I try out all the different choices trying to discover all the included scenes, I probably would have spent longer but the constant restating from the beginning due to crashing or dying tends to get a little annoying. Shame it was never released as I think it was innovative and enjoyable to play. A few years back Jason Smith of JSII released some CD's of for want of a better term unreleased code/demos/Atari archive material one of which I believe has all the scenes for American Hero in it so in theory someone could complete it although unless the code or other documentation holds an indication of which scenes goes where without a script it maybe take a lot of time to work out which scenes go where. In play they are similar to the Don Bluth games like Dragons Lair, the scene plays out and at the end you usually have two choices, depending on your choice (or lack thereof) depends on what happens next.
  6. I don't know about there being 4 working transmitters out there, as far as I know there is only one complete & working VR unit which keeps changing hands. I was in the UK for a couple of years and made an appearance at a couple of JagFest UK events which was probably 8-10 years ago now, I may be wrong but I think some Italian guys who's visited JagFest UK and were inspired to do run their own Atari events may have brought it around that time but it may well have changed hands again since then.
  7. If you can remember where the solder shorts were (what was shorted to what) it would help to try and identify any component that may have failed, however if you are not certain it might just be the image but to me the 4th item from the left in that group of components immediately below the 4013 looks like something might have happened to it. If C55 is open circuit the 4013 will not get its reset pulse as the external power is applied, it is possible that a race condition could result in the output of the 1st stage (pin 1) going high (5V) when it should be low (0V), however I would not expect that to affect subsequent power on/off cycles resulting form pressing the power switch. An Emitter to Collector short on either Q9 or Q10 would result in immediate power on and no power off.
  8. I don't know what upgrade you have but it sounds like either a broken wire or a bad solder joint. The action of grasping the wires moves them establishing the connection and releasing them presumable result in them settling into another position where the connection is broken. Try holding all three wires at once a slowly moving them up/down & left/right if it is a bad connection then it should intermittently work/stop working as the wires make intermittent connection while being moved. If that appears to be the case you could just re-solder/replace all three wires but hopefully only one wire has a bad connection so if you want to be a little more scientific about it try moving one wire at a time to identify the wire which has the problem.
  9. Although the larger picture lower own does have text stating the RF connector on the right side is RF input, it is clearly an error as the text on the case states "RF out". Depending on your location it may depends on what type on connections you have on your TV set, in the UK digital TV is still received via RF. I don't know about the newest models but my 6 year old HD set has both an analogue and digital tuner connected to the RF coax input. If a TV has a coax RF input then I would think this should work (assuming the 2600/7800 is not AV modded) provided it can handle an analogue RF input as the description is not clear. I presume the text on the case says "digital full band modulator" mean that it converts analogue RF/AV to a digital transmission format otherwise it will not be of any use. That said, even if you can get the signal from a 2600/7800 in and out it do not expect it to necessarily clean up the signal as theoretically you should get out what you put in.
  10. I guess it depends on your definition of what a shoot 'em up is. Although there is a mission element the following could count as it is a large part of the game... CyberMorph HoverStrike BattleSphere Iron Soldier Iron Solder 2 Wolfenstien 3D & Doom I can't really say what counts as good amongst those as most cause me issue when playing so the only ones I regulatory play are the Iron soldier. I personally found BattleSphere looks good but did not enjoy playing it and if Doom is your kind of thing then you need should probably keep and eye on the slayer edition thread if you are not already
  11. You want to use a USB controller on a 2600 is that correct? If so, then you might find some useful information here , the RYS MKII looks like is should do what you want but there may be more suggestions if you read the entire thread, I only skimmed the 1st page.
  12. One possibility is that the carbon tracks on the pots has worn to the extent that when you turn them the wiper no longer makes contact the the track, if the behaviour you are seeing is the same as when no paddle controllers are connected then this may well be what is happening. If you look at the schematic here you will see the controllers use 1M (1 MegaOhm, pots). so if you think the pots are bad replace them with one's of same value. If you look at either 2600 schematic here, you will see the pots charge some 0.068 capacitors (69nF, assuming value shown is in Farads). The time it takes to do that is how the position is determined, consequently another possible cause the your issue would be if the capacitors have gone open circuit (or disconnected due to a bad solder joint).
  13. If there are no buttons on the front of the hand grips then perhaps you could mount a couple of momentary (non-latching) push button switches there (say left = up, right = down) connected to a microcontroller that in turn either sends data to an DAC or controller the output of a digital potentiometer to produce the relevant voltage. However, if you want to stay true to the original controller design then as doubledown said you will first have to find a way of making the hand grips rotate back and forth.
  14. Seems a bit of an over reaction to me. It would seem logical to me for there not to be consistent pricing where used goods are concerned as it is variable primarily upon the condition and to some extent local demand. Not being in the US I am not entirely sure what Goodwill store are all about, but I it looks something like charitable foundation of sorts. Thus I would say the purchaser in question was not stealing as they paid the price they were charged, however by not querying if the price charged was correct it could be argued that they potentially (as it may have been on offer & so the correct price was paid) deprived them of funds that could have been used to help others. $13 does not sound like much to ask to me, so I personally would have queried it, particularity if they are using their profits to help other just so I could enjoy it guilt free. Ultimately, I think it is more of a moral than legal issue. By paying the price charged the purchaser has fulfilled their part of the transaction in good faith and so are good to go as the error lies with the retailer. However, if the purchaser subsequently feels that not querying the price at the time was morally ambiguous and that they took unfair advantage of the situation then they can, as you said, choose to redress the issue by going back and making a donation equal to the difference.
  15. I had another look and the little latch piece that move when you press the open appears to have a slightly rounded top with a recess below, a bit like the letter P. This would make sense as when pushing the lid closed the curved top will allow the latch to be pushed back and then the spring puss it forward into the hole on the square catch section of the lid you highlighted in your previous post. Can you actually push the lid full closed without forcing it? If so does it then spring back up when you remove you hand? If the answer to both is yes, then it is possible that either the flat underside of the latch piece has worn and become rounded allowing lid to push back past it into the open position or maybe the return spring that should keep the latch piece in the closed position (as when the open button is unpressed) has somehow lost tension and is being overpowered by the lid spring needs and so needs to be replaced stronger spring. I don't think there is anything more in regards to the physical nature of the relevant parts that I can see to look for or anything else I can think of that may be causing the problem other than something physically stopping you from putting the lid into the closed position.
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