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Stephen Moss

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About Stephen Moss

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  • Birthday 12/20/1970

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    Cambridge, United Kingdom
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    American Football, Golf, Electronics, Programming, Sci-Fi, Indoor Climbing

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  1. ChildOfCV is correct, that type of cheap power supply are designed that way. So that the manufactures can use a small, cheap transformer they choose one that outputs both more voltage then required and less current. Consequently as the transformers output power is fixed, when more than the rated current is take from the transformer by the 2600 the output voltage drops accordingly, thus the voltage reads higher than the specified voltage off load (no current taken) and about the specified (9V) voltage on load. You could get another 9V supply to replace it but unless you get one that is specified as having a regulated (or stabilised) 9V output which will read 9V both off and on load the chances are that any other 9V power supply you get will be doing exactly the same thing. To clarify this point... Electrical power generates heat, how much Power (heat) the regulator can take is dependant upon how quickly the heat can be taken away from the regualtor. The smaller the heatsink, the less quickly the heat can be taken away and so the regulator heats up faster. When it gets too hot internal protection circuity will place it into thermal shutdown until it cools, lowering the output voltage to 1 or 2 volts. Power = Volts x Current, as the 2600 requires a certain amount of current to operate, so the higher the input voltage the more the regulator will heat up both raising the chances of the regulator going into thermal shutdown as the heat generated exceeds the capacity of the heatsink to get rid of it and the speed with which it takes to heat up to that point. Thus, it is this balance that effectively limits the input voltage to less than the 35V maximum the regulator can take if you want the 2600 to run for any length of time before the regulator overheats and shuts down, if you were to put 35V in the regulator would probably shut down in a matter of minutes as you would be putting almost 4 times the normal amount of power through it.
  2. Q1: If it had been released with the Jag and not much later as an add on Q2: Having anything that went on the become a big series of games (i.e. Tomb Raider, Madden, Tiger Woods PGA), AvP with more/bigger levels & better graphics, not many FVM games around except VidGrid so either American Hero with both its FMV novelty & somewhat adult content or Black Ice/White Noise could have generated a lot of interest in the Jaguar/CD unit. Q3: Given that... The CD library is so small is a CD unit virtually unnecessary and Carl or Saint might solve CD emulation making a CD unit unnecessary I would say not really, only as a cheaper alternative to getting an original Jaguar console. Incorporated accessories should be JagLink or equivalent for game networking and a HD HDMI output for easy connection to modern TVs/Monitors would be useful. As for games it depend if you are talking about any game or just Jaguar games. If Jaguar Games then T2K, AvP & Iron Soldier, if any game then see my answer to question 2. Plus Lemmings and a good dogfighter, something like Heroes of the Pacific or Tie Fighter and something that requires some thinking as well as blasting like Space Hulk.
  3. Do you know what type of battery leaked and whether it is acid or alkaline? I have never tried it but if an internet search for something like "remove battery leak corrosion" has not already suggested them then then try these... 1) Use and ACID: If the battery that leaked was a standard non-rechargable alkaline battery then with an acid being the opposite of an alkaline would seem logical that the deposit can be dissolved (or weakened to where it can be chipped off) by using an acid. I would not try anything too strong because if you get it on the wrong place as it may into parts you don't want it to, it may require several applications but perhaps try something like lemon juice or vinegar. 2) Use an Emery Board, cut the width down to that sufficient to access the battery terminal and slowly sand the deposit away or possibly as mall grinding wheel in a Dremmil. If all else fails and you are not concerned with keep it 100% original then do an internet search for "Battery holder". They are quite cheap so it may be worth getting one and trying to remove the battery terminals so that you can use them to replace the corroded ones.
  4. I don't think any sane person would want to program in machine code and the next best language for ultimate control and code efficient is Assembler which while more difficult than C or BASIC is still written in relatively logical and readable English. Of C and BASIC which is best generally comes down to personal preference, and as to which produces the most efficient code is down to the efficiency of the compiler rather than the programming language. Personally, I find BASIC easier then C, although they share many of the same commands such as If, Then, Else, Do, Until, While , Wend etc. I just find that with C... a) its syntax a little more difficult to read as it uses less of a full sentence (as it were) compared to BASIC, b) You spend half you life putting in curly brackets and semi colons at the end of each line of code (who though that was a good idea!) unlike BASIC and c) In my experience when an error is reported in BASIC it is usually in the reported line of code where as in C it is often due to an easily omitted semi colon or curly bracket that is locate some distance from the line of code where the error is reported which you then spend ages looking for it.
  5. If I read your query correctly you want to send imitation paddle data from the PC to soething that has a 9 or 15 way D connector, if so then... There are some USB examples available with Proton (BASIC PIC compiler) a couple of which use the free to compile 18F4550 that you may be able to easily adapt. I have not looked to closely at them but I think USB_ADC & USB18COM sets the PIC up as a serial slave device or COM port while USB18 Mouse sets it up as a HID slave device which would probably be less useful in your application. Another option, if you have space would be to use a small Arduino board, all you have to do is set up the com stuff and it talks to the PC via USB as a serial com port, at work I have a GUI written in VB that sends/receives data from an Arduino that performs 3 phase PWM motor control. I personally don't rate the Arduino very highly and don't consider them suitable for real engineering applications (I was making improvements an existing design) but it should be able to handle something as simple as your application. Would a USB to Serial adaptor do what you want? They were designed to allow you to connect old serial device like printers to PC's without serial ports and so I assume it will appear to the PC as a serial com port, if it is not suitable as it is you may be able to rip the guts out of it build what should be a small the PCB into whatever you are working on.
  6. Could just be a bad power socket. When the power connector is inserted the battery ground connection is broken, as the socket wears the contact may no longer be re-established when the power cable is removed. You can test for this in two ways... 1) Use a multi-meter to check the continuity (reistance) between TP16 and pin 7 of U6 (see note i), if your reading close to 0 (inductors have a small resistance) then the connection is OK and the issue may be with the power connector (see note ii). If not then you probably have an open circuit somewhere, either L15 or L19 may be defective or you have a bad solder joint (see note iii). 2) Solder a piece of wire either between pins 2 & 3 of the power connector (see note iv if unidentified) or between TP16 and pin 7 of U6 and see if it will power on with the batteries. If it powers up on batteries with power socket pins 2 & 3 connected then the power connector definitely need replacing, if it powers up with TP16 connectd to U6, pin 7 then the power connector may need replacing (see note v). NOTE: i) Make sure you are connecting to pin 7 of U6, in the top image of this post of a lynx 1 PCB U6 is in the upper left corner & pin 7 is the last on on the left of top row. In the third image down of this post of a lynx 2 pcb (shield removed) U6 is on the left side about half way up & pin 7 is the bottom one on the left side. ii) Check the continuity between the negative battery terminal and TP16, if you get a reading of approximate 0 then replace the power connector otherwise you have a bad battery to TP16 connection. iii) Check the continuity between each individual component in that section of circuit and L15/L19 themselves to try and identify where the issue lies. iv) If you cannot identify pins 2 & 3 measure the continuity from the large pin in the middle of the power connector (the one you see from the outside with the case on) and the three pins on the bottom of the power connector, a reading of approximately 0 = pin 1. v) Ensure you remove the link before applying the the power cable as having the batteries and power unit connected in parallel could result in damage to either and the Lynx. Additionally check the continuity between the battery negative terminal and TP16, a reading of approximately 0 is definitely the power connector and not a bad battery to TP16 connection.
  7. I am surprised the speaker magnets on a sound bar would have an effect at a foot plus as I would not think the total magnetic force was that strong, nonetheless if you can find some Mu-Metal sheet that will probably sort you out. I have not looked into the numbers but I would think that the thicker the sheet the better the shielding, so Mu-Metal foil may work for you but as you don't know the strength of the magnetic field in order to crunch the numbers on the required thickness personally I would suggest a 2mm thick sheet to start with. You could sit it on top of the CRT but I am not sure if that would cause any problems, a better option maybe to use it as a shelf for the soundbar to sit on.
  8. Well it was not the best advice as it just assumed Q8 would be the issue and not any possible issue with U6, the power button, the Zenner, L15 or the MOSFET. Personally I would use a wire to to pin 13 of U6 instead of pin 11 as that is where the power switches connect. If U6 on/off latch is working when you take pin 13 low (U6, pin 7) pin 10 should go low and stay low when you remove the the connection. Equally when you take pin 13 high (U6, Pin 14), pin 10 should go high - so start there. Search for other post with things like power on/off or turn on/off in the title as power problems and how to solve them have been covered many times.
  9. It is difficult to produce a single image of the PCB showing where exactly to measure, one image would be required per measurement and take a longtime to produce which is probably why there are none. The attached image should contain all the components for the power circuits. Find U6 (lower half, just left of centre), pin 1 is on its Top Left corner and as with all DIL IC's pin count increases in an anti clockwise direction so... Pin 7 (GND) is bottom left corner, Pin 8, bottom right corner and Pin 14 (Vcc), top right corner. For everything else if you are not sure which pin or end of a component is which take a close look at the PCB traces, follow them round and see what else they connect to, if it matches with a connection drawn on the schematic then you are probably looking at the right place. For those components draw on the schematic to the left of the MOSFET (Q12), use Pin 7 of IC6, the applicable connection of the battery connector or TP16 as the GND for your meter when measuring voltages (supply voltage measure 9V when on/using batteries or maybe a bit more when off using a power unit). For those components drawn on the schematic to the right of Q12 you can use the A (left of the three) pin of Q12, either pin of L15 or the left end of D13 as the GND for your meter when measuring voltage. Note: If you have the COM lead of your meter connected to the GND point for components draw left of the MOSFET but are measuring a voltage on a component drawn right of the MOSFET you will measure 9V not 5V. *** THAT IS CORRECT ***. In normal working operation 4V is dropped across Q12. and consequently you will only read 5V on the 5V parts of the circuit when the COM lead for the meter is placed on one of the indicated GND points for components that are draw to the right of Q12. The exception to this is the parts of U6 drawn to the right of Q12, when the Lynx is off you should measure 9V or 0V (COM lead on U6, pin 7), when the Lynx is on and working correctly those gates in conjunction with Q8, R72 & C43 form an oscillator. Consequently, an exact voltage for comparison is difficult to get it is dependant on several factors, that said when the Lynx should be on (Pin 10 of U6 approximately 0V) the voltage will not be constant at any of the possible the supply voltages (0, 9 or 5), if it is you have a problem (possibly blown Q8).
  10. If the 7800 has a shield and you are certain that it and the RF modulator shield have a good connection to 0V then there is not really anything more you can do to it. Are you certain the issue is withthe 7800 and not the TV?. As you appear to have identified the the PC as the source of the interference the simplest solution is to turn the PC off, or even putting it to sleep may help if you don't what a total shut down. If the PC is modern the there should be regulation to ensure it does not radiate out enough interference to affect other devices, however as it does appear to be the source try moving the the TV and console as far from the PC as possible to reduce the amount of interference that is picked up. If the interference is being radiated then the aforementioned ferrite on the RF cable can help if the interference is being picked up by the RF cable, but not if being pick up by the 7800 is already embedded in the video signal prior to it entering the RF modulator. If it is radiated then you may also want to consider placing ferrites on the power leads as close to the console/TV as possible, in case it is coming in on the power rails. Most TV's I have seen are not generally shielded except around the RF receiver, consequently if the radiated interference is being pickup by the TV somewhere after the receiver there is little you can do beyond moving it as far away as possible or placing it in a big screened box. If the interference is being transmitted down the power lines then plugging them all into filtered mains outlets may help to prevent its propagation to other devices through the mains wiring.
  11. As stepho indicated it sounds to me like there may be a short between the paddle pin and the fire button, particularly if it is the left paddle that is affected as the paddle is on pin 5 and the fire button is on pin 4. Do you know if it has been repaired before, if it has that may be when the short, if there is on occurred. However I don't think the testing methods stepho described will prove much... If you connect a meter to the fire pins and and GND you will get always get either infinite resistance (no path through the pot to GND) or 0 (switch shorting the pot) regardless of if the is switch is shorted to the pot or not. You would only get a non infinite resistance with the fire button unpressed if someone serious screwed up a repair resulting in both the paddle pin being shorted to the fire pin and the third terminal of the pot has been connect to GND in error (wiper and one end in parallel with the switch) as it should left unconnected to create a variable resistance instead of a variable voltage. Try measuring the resistance between the paddle and fire pins, infinite resistance is open, 0 resistance is short.
  12. Power voltages look good, as does the res pins, not sure about the colour delay as I don't know what you should get but will probably vary a little unit to unit. Oscillators are difficult, like audio & video they are best checked using an oscilloscope which most people don't have. All you can really say about them using a multimeter is that if you are not getting 0 or 5 then it is probably working.
  13. I appreciate this is in early stage development, but looking at the video I think I would find it difficult to get an overview of the entire board of play which I think would be essential in a strategy game like this. I the absence of being able to get a single view of the entire board perhaps if the view area changed by quarters rather than scrolling it would be easier for players see how adjacent tiles in the different quadrants fit together in order to determine where to place their next stone. Although, I appreciate that may limit the maximum board size - just an observation for your consideration.
  14. Have you check that... The RIOT, TIA and 6507 are all getting power? Just because you have 5V coming out of the regulator does not automatically mean each of these is getting it. Have you checked that the reset (res) pins on the 6507 and RIOT are High (5V) when the unit is on? Have you checked that the Oscillator is working?
  15. How many people really sit that far from their Jag that they would need a wireless controller? It is not entirely clear how you intend to do this although I assume one Arduino plugs into in to the Jaguar controller port and the other plugs onto the controller/team tap cable. That way your only need two for up to to 4 controllers, plus if you plugged the Team Tap into the Jag not only would have increased the latency as you would need to add an address byte of some type to ensure only the correct controller responded. But you can only take 50mA from a Jaguar controller port, 10mA from a Team Tap port and the current consumption of the Nano will probable exceed 10mA and may exceed 50mA as Bluetooth transceivers can use anywhere between 8 and 50mA depending on data rate and range. Even if we assume that you are just using the two and that the power consumption is less than 50mA, how will you power them? There is a 5V pin on the Arduino so for the one plugged into the Jag controller port you may be thinking of connecting the Jaguar 5V to that, however that is usually the output from the regulator and really meant for powering the shield boards, the regulator may not like having 5V sent to its output pin. As for the one on the controller/Team Tap end there is not a lot of (I would say really no) room to fit a battery pack, charging IC, charging connector and the Nano inside either of them which probably means plugging controller/Team Tap Nano into the existing controller/Team Tap cable socket, so not only will you have the existing controller/Team Tap cable lying around but a second cable to power the Nano and controller(s) which kind of defeats the point of a "wireless" controller. I am not saying it can't be done, I just think it will be difficult to a nice looking solution and will probably be more trouble than it is worth, and if it was worth doing someone will have done it by now.
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