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SiLic0ne t0aD

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About SiLic0ne t0aD

  • Rank
    River Patroller
  • Birthday 12/27/1985

Profile Information

  • Custom Status
    Rock 'N Roller, Space Patroller
  • Gender
  • Location
    Ohio Valley
  • Interests
    Too many hobbies, too little time..
  • Currently Playing
    Mainly: ColecoVision, Intellivision, Vectrex, Atari 2600, NES, 3DS and Wii U.
    Also: N64, SNES, Genesis, Dreamcast, Wii, Xbox and 360.
  • Playing Next
    Who knows? probably some homebrews..

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  1. I buy every ROM I can.. it's what I tend to prefer nowadays. I try to buy physical copies when I can too, but sometimes I miss out (more often than not it seems, but that's my fault 😅). Other times, it's hard to swing it since I also collect homebrews for other vintage systems too (Vectrex & ColecoVision, occasionally 2600 in my case), not to mention my many other hobbies.. I can only split my money so many ways. Then there's the having the room for actual physical copies part, but that's a whole other issue. 😜 ROMs are far more convenient, at least for me personally, especially if I missed out on a physical copy. Plus I still get to support the publishers/programmers who made them. Whatever is decided, I hope ROMs will be more widely available in the future, because it is the future. On the subject of a club, that would be cool if it was at the $125 level. I'll join. 👍 I'm pretty much a "strictly real hardware" kind of guy, so I definitely put my LTO (and flashcarts for other systems) to use. However, it would be nice to have the option to play them via emulation (and hopefully via a FPGA based console someday too, because that's also the future, as real hardware starts dying off). Anyways, hopefully some kind of compromise will be figured out for encrypted vs unencrypted ROMs. Y'all got my support either way!
  2. I'm pretty sure it does from what I read in his thread. I'm about to find out soon.. I'm definitely swapping out the Kono board for the Crayola in my Model I since it seems to be compatible with everything.
  3. I really wish I would've grabbed a 2nd one. @intvnut Joe, if you (or anybody else) can piece together more copies, I'd buy one. 👍
  4. Crayola the Crayon King's v5 board works with the OSSC. Works with the Retrotink 2x-Scart too. Blows the kono mod out of the water, imho.. Just did my model II a few days ago. He's selling them on eBay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/284134846315 I'm not sure about the other one that was mentioned.
  5. I would (carefully) desolder that IC, socket it and try another chip. IIRC, if the ship is spinning CCW, the problem is IC302 (4052). If the ship is spinning CW, the problem is IC207 (VIA chip - SY6522A). Just like in the video, avoid the TI branded 4052B's and get the NTE version if you can.
  6. @-^CrossBow^- Fantastic! Looking forward to seeing some video. Even though I was successful, I'd still like to see someone else's take on this, especially with the YUV portion, which I'll probably end up hooking up as well since you guys seem to have a better looking picture than using RGB. You can never really have too many output options imho. @the_crayon_king Thanks! Yep, everything worked out. I realized there might be some instructions on the ebay listing and sure enough, there was. I was pretty sure I had everything correct, but just needed a little bit of reassurance I guess. I guess the relabling did make a little more sense. The unused pad on the input side (pad F) might've thrown me off a bit, but I didn't see anything about it on the color ic & mod board diagram pic a few pages back, nor did anybody else have it connected I'm their photos, so I left that alone. Everything else was pretty self explanatory. All in all, it was pretty similar to when I did the Fred K mod a few years back in a model 1/Sears, which helped immensely when doing this mod on my model II .. Just had to shake off the cobwebs. A couple things I gleaned from this install is the importance of cable routing and especially hole location(s) .. Installing the DIN port on the far left side, where there's plenty of room, with no PCB in the way is highly recommended. I would NOT put it where it where I currently have it (in the middle) again. More specifically, installing it on the very bottom of the shell and not through the "ribs" (looking at it from the back) would be best. I would've done so, had I not had AV composite jacks already there. The ribs are too weak to support jacks and will crack/break if there's too much stress on them (which I found out the hard way with the RCA jacks I installed years ago). I had a helluva time getting the top shell back on too.. a real nightmare to get it to close, whilst retaining power button functionality/movement. The PCB has to be totally flat, with no bulging, or else the power button won't work.. Mine was stuck powered on until I tweaked some things a bit. The cabling should be flat as can be too, or else you'll never get the PCB flat and seated properly. Other than that, it was fairly painless. I might go ahead to do the audio mod since I don't ever plan on using RF and would welcome an increase in volume at this point.. All these old consoles are on the quiet side to begin with, so I always find myself having to crank up the TV/stereo. Anyways, I plan on buying at least a couple more of your boards and will be upgrading my Sears unit next, for sure.. It definitely trumps Fred's board, so it has to go! I'll probably pick up another Inty and throw Fred's board in there and sell it off to recoup some money. We'll see.
  7. Sorry, false alarm, folks! Lol. I read back over some stuff and figured it out. As I suspected, I was just overthinking it. Success! She's up and running on the 1st try.. Thank goodness. This mod looks great! No flashing on the LTO menu, or on Thunder Castle (not that it was too bad for me before, personally). Looks much better than Kono's RGB overall, though I am still using his Scart cable, at least for the time being. No "model II audio buzz" either, though I might throw in that 1uf cap for shits & giggles. I tried to route the wires so that there would be minimal interference. Rock solid - so far, so good! It's fantastic having a couple pallet options too, so thanks for making that a possibility as well. Thank you Crayon King, you're the man! So glad Inty fans have a reasonably priced, readily available RGB mod, that not only looks great, but is finally compatible with the OSSC! 😎
  8. Does anybody have install pics of the latest revision Crayon King - Inty RGB PCB? I have a Baked Potato v5 PCB here, along with an older v3. The v5 (with OSSC compatibility) will be installed, of course, this time in an Inty II. The Kono mod is still in my Sears/2609 for now, though I'll be upgrading to Crayon v5 mod once my Inty II is RGB modded. I read through this 11 page thread a couple times, but information is scattered about and don't see any instructions at all for the latest revision. So a pic or explanation would help a lot, though like the old saying goes, 'a picture says a thousand words". I have this job about 90% done, but the silkscreen labeling is different between the two boards (the pad Numbers [2-7] on Rev 3 are now Letters on the latest Rev 5,] A-F for example]), which has me slightly confused. Maybe I missed the explanation/update, or maybe I'm just overthinking things here, but either way, I just want to be 110% sure I have everything connected correctly before powering this on.. I'd rather be safe than sorry. All I have to do is solder the 5 color data wires to the color IC.. everything else is pretty much self explanatory and is already terminated. 5v and GND aren't crossed or anything like that, so no worries, I shouldn't fry anything. 😅 Besides that, a little about my setup - I'm going the 8pin mini DIN (that came with the kit) XRGB/kono pinout, kono SCART cable into the OSSC or 2x-Scart. The only "extra" thing I'll have hooked up is the Palette switch (which is two wires from the middle & outer legs of the switch, to the 2 through-holes on the RGB board labeled "PAL", correct?). I think that's all.. Hopefully I'll have this up and running tonight. Really looking forward to the better compatibility with the OSSC! Cheers
  9. Will Intellivania and/or Rick Dynamite be back in stock? I'm kicking myself for missing out on these. 😕 Just curious - thanks!
  10. Awesome! Love me some Boulder Dash, which this reminds me a lot of and that's definitely not a bad thing. Definitely looking forward to trying this out. 👍 Thanks for sharing!
  11. I received my ADAM colored Phoenix the other day. Big thanks to JF and Toby! Cheers, fellas! [emoji482]
  12. Wow, good luck with everything! I'm interested in Vectrex stuff, depending on what you have.
  13. I think you've done a great job as usual, Jim! 👍 If I had some kind of Arcade cabinet to put this in, I'd be all over it! 😁
  14. You must be referring to RetroElectronik, based out of France. They have Cv and Vectrex PCBs, etc. https://www.r2tronik.com/en/cartmodding/126-colecovision-replacement-pcb-for-repairprototyping-test-or-cart-modding-0715235390948.html
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