SiLic0ne t0aD

I had a feeling someone would say that. Yeah, that layout definitely seems crowded. What's the dimensions of that as-is? Just curious. You could always modify it and rehouse it in a bigger, better case. Some kind of sloped Hammond case would work well. You can easily swap in another joystick as well.. They all mount up the same way, pretty much. The Seimitsu LS-32 or Sanwa JLF would be good candidates, among many others. Hopefully someone shows a gut shot of one of these.. I'm really curious how he went about everything, electronically.

Wow, the one blue key I was missing was right under my nose! Can't believe it was that easy and is what held me up. 🤦🏻 Just gotta get through the temple now.. Those platform jumps. Aaarghh!! 🥵 Thanks for the playthrough. I'd love to see some speedruns by folks and learn how to myself!

No, not usually.. Unless there's something shady going on, as seems to be the case with Tommy & Co. Folks are having trouble getting their refunds back from this fiasco, hence the lawsuit. I really hope you don't have any money invested in this, because you may not get it back at this point, just sayin'. Well, at least they keep it real and tell it like it is. Sometimes the truth can be painful, but that's just life sometimes. 🤷🏻‍♂️ On a positive note, they did save some people a lot grief and money by pointing out the flaws and facts, at least to anyone open-minded and willing to listen, so there's that. I saw someone linked it earlier, but I'll link it again too, because the video by Hbomberguy was extremely eye-opening, regarding Tommy and the Amico. If you have the time, I highly recommend watching it. https://youtu.be/0twDETh6QaI Stick with the Mattel Intellivision and the awesome offerings from the homebrew scene here. Plenty of good, clean fun & then some, well, except for maybe that port of Beat 'em and Eat' em. 😬

The OP's kidding, right? 😂 No chance in hell! There's currently a pending class-action lawsuit against Intellivision Entertainment LLC, so yeah, isn't looking too good. Pat & Ian just released a segment about it, so I'd recommend getting the scoop on it there, incase you missed it. 😬 https://youtu.be/OKHRgkhGdGk

Just wanted to say thanks for sharing the gerbers for this! I just finished up building myself one of these. I've had a couple NIB Neo Geo X controllers stashed away for future conversions, so this was a good opportunity to finally make use of one. Plus I have NG arcade stick conversions for just about all of my 8-bit systems, so I just had to have one for the 5200 too. Some notes about this build: I went with Jlcpcb to fab the boards instead, as they do all kinds of colors and they're dirt cheap compared to OshPark. The recommended keypad is either NLA or out of stock, but I found some substitutes on Digikey with black keys instead of white, which look cooler IMHO (p/n: 3845 or 1528-2673-ND) I then measured the keypad, made a cardstock template and used that as a cutting guide. I used a drill at first, then a Dremel to hog out the rest of the hole in the shell. I fine tuned it with some flat files on the sides & round files on the corners. I did lots of test fitting to get it perfect as possible... Measure twice, cut once, because once it's gone, it's gone! I used a generic 16mm momentary button (ebay p/n: R13-507) for the reset button on the back, by the cord strain relief. It's not the best though, so I may swap this out for something higher quality in the future. I used JST connectors on the Reset button wiring and DB-15 cable, incase I ever need to completely separate the top & bottom controller shell. I used new/upgraded Seimitsu parts where I could: 24mm buttons, LS-56 spring, receiver, 30mm clear bubble ball top (from Paradise Arcade Shop) and a JNX GOTW Octogate, except for the DB-15 cable (recycled from a broken 5200 controller) and the stock Omron microswitches, as they're DPST and are required for this circuit. I should note that when I hooked them up according to the instructions on post #25, my directional controls were backwards: up was down, left was right and vice versa.. The grounds, horizontal & vertical wires were correct, but once I switched the directional wires from anything labeled as NC to NO and anything labeled NO to NC, everything worked as it should. To clarify: Left = NC, Right = NO, UP = NC, Down = NO, see pic below. Hopefully that eliminates any confusion and helps someone if they decide to build one of these. I made some custom labels in photoshop, printed them on Silhouette brushed metal sticker paper, then laminated them. (I forgot to add Pause & Start button labels, but they're there now, though not pictured) That's pretty much it. All in all, this came out pretty well and am pleased with the results. Rapid fire is nice to have close by on buttons C & D too. Anyway, here's some pics. Cheers 🍻

With all these cool Inty arcade style controllers being built lately, I figured I better get in on the action too. 😛 I finished this project up about a month ago, but haven't really shown it publicly, until now. However, this is just a custom, one-off controller that I built for myself, so no worries about stepping on anyone's toes or anything like that. Some may have seen it before in it's first gloss black incarnation (pics in my gallery - as I actually built this years ago), but over this winter, I decided to give this thing a total facelift and re-do it in the Sears - Super Video Arcade color scheme, with the SVA being my favorite of all the Inty models. 😎 This was built using Grips03's fabulous DIY PCB he was offering once upon a time and a busted up Neo Geo AES controller as the base. It's pretty much the same internally as his controllers, but I really tried to make it look different. Color wise, I used SEM Color Coat - "Sante Fe", which is a pretty dead on color match to my SVA. I cleaned up some logos found online and made some new designs in Photoshop. They were printed on Silhouette - Brushed Metal sticker paper, then laminated. Lastly, I had some high quality, heavy duty Woodgrain vinyl stashed away for ages (the same kind used on some ice machines) and decided to cut down a strip, die-cut the top corners and add it to the front lip, so that it kind of resembles the face of the SVA console. All that's missing is the gold TELE-GAMES logo. I may try making a water slide decal at some point, but I'd be better off just having it printed onto a new piece of the actual vinyl itself. I'm pretty good with it as-is though, TBH. 🤷🏻‍♂️ I took some "glamor shots" a while ago, but just recently added stickers to mark the Pause and Start buttons (though this really needs to be changed to say Enter instead.. Whoops!). 😅 Anyway, here it is.. I present: the Sears/TELE-GAMES - Super Video Arcade Controller™ © Currently with a 4-way gate installed, but I can change this to a NG style square 8-way or JNX GOTW Octogate. I'll probably swap a Seimitsu LS-56 in eventually. I installed threaded brass inserts on all screw bosses, so they'll never wear out anytime soon. (haha - just kidding on the copyright/trademark thing, but seriously though, I'd love to see DoubleDown make Sears version.. He makes amazing controllers!) 🍻

Super Video Arcade Controller ™ you say? Ditto. ✔️ Hmm.. I might have to trademark that! That's my take on it anyway.

It should work fine, though I can't verify that 100% since I don't have a BackBit yet. It's not an encrypted game though and isn't JLP enhanced, as far as I know, so you should be in good shape. 👍

What part? The whole thing, unfortunately. Maybe it's my 5200, but it looks awful on my Vizio D43 HDTV, for some reason. While literally every other vintage console I have looks amazing on this TV, it just seems to hate Atari consoles in particular. As we discussed via pm before, my 7800 does look decent with the UAV s-video mod, other than some minor ghosting, and even though it bugs me, I can live with it. However, this 2-port 5200 takes ghosting to a whole new level.. It's unbearable, no matter what configuration I try, except if scanlines are turned on, full strength. I'm not a fan of that look though, and prefer just a touch of scanlines, if any at all. Maybe your Extron does work some additional magic.. I may have to try and snag one up one of these days. On the bright side, It does look wonderful running through the UAV's s-video on the CRT in the other room though, so not all is lost. It's better off there anyway.. It's just way too damn big to keep hooked up along side my other consoles on the main setup anyway. 😅 Regarding overscan, I don't think I'll go out of my way to display that sort of thing, so I think I'll pass on trying the UGV mod afterall. Thanks for explaining that more, as this is the first I've heard of this mod.

Stop the Express would probably be a good example.. It's a port and was available on many other vintage computers back in the day, ie. ZX Spectrum, MSX, C64, etc. I never heard of it until this recent Inty port. I'm sure there's better examples though.

Nice work, as usual, DoubleDown! 👍😎 👍

First I've ever heard of this.. Would it be an improvement over the UAV? I have a UAV installed in my 5200 and while it looks fantastic on a CRT, it looks horrible on my HDTV (unless I use fake scan lines, which I'm not a huge fan of), no matter if I'm using the OSSC with s-video add on board, or Retrotink 2x Scart with s-video add on board. I'd love to jump to RGB and just be done with it, but who knows when those will be back in stock.

Bummer about the flashcart situation, though I'm sure some of the wizards here will figure out a solution. 🤞 If/when that gets sorted out, I would definitely buy a ROM if offered. In the meantime, I'll snag a physical copy. This game looks & sounds amazing. Congrats to all those involved!

Thanks! Yes, very good point. I kind of realized that after posting and looking at more pictures.. internal measurements would be difficult to get due to the complex layout, plus I guess they'd be kind of irrelevant anyway.. Just as long as it's at least 13" × 15" × 4.25" the 5200's measurements, that's all that matters. 👍 At any rate, I'll keep looking and if I find anything else worth mentioning, I'll be sure to post it so others can make their own "5200 carrying case on a budget".

It's a flat head Philips screw, 10mm or 7/16" long. Maybe it's a #5 or M2.5? Not 100% sure, but I would just shoot @batari on here a message and ask him about the screw size & inquire about an extra label. He's hooked me up with extra labels in the past, so I'm sure he'd help you out too.

I'm not sure why I was quoted, but no need to convey anything again, I'm well aware why the RF shields existed in the first place. As you said, once the FCC relaxed regulations, they totally did away with RF shields on the Intellivision II and I think that says a lot. Besides the hassle of reinstalling them on original 2609 models, the main reason I left mine off was due to lack of adequate ventilation to help keep the motherboard (especially those IC's & transistors) cooler. 2609's were prone to overheating BITD when they first came out, so IMO, leaving it off definitely doesn't hurt in that case. I totally understand wanting to keep consoles as original as possible, and I'm one of those people at times, to a point, but I don't see anything wrong with useful mods either. That's just me though. 👍

Sorry to dredge up an ancient zombie thread, but this seemed like the most relevant thread. Do any of you guys with an official 5200 carrying case have the internal dimensions? I see the external measurements are 17"x22"x6", but I wish I knew the internal measurements. Any iinfo regarding this would be very much appreciated! 🙏 Since these OG cases are quite rare & expensive nowadays, I've been trying to find a newer, cheaper, modern alternative that's readily available. I did take a chance on a slightly used hard plastic carrying case, which I ran across on eBay (link & pics below) and picked up for under $30. However, my 5200 barely fits inside and there's really not enough room, depth wise, to protect the front and rear of my console, without risk of cracking the already fragile front plastics. As you can see, there is zero padding to protect the front & rear. Nevertheless, it's better than nothing I suppose and will have to do as a carrying case for now.. Figured I'd make a label for it in photoshop and slap it on there in the meantime, until I find something else. PS: Here is the ebay link.. If nothing else, these cases could come in handy for housing something else, as the price is certainly right, that's for sure. I'm sure I can do better though. https://www.ebay.com/itm/403910087959?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=1mjo6ut0qwg&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=qnunrF1dR7C&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Very cool! If I didn't already have an Inty arcade controller, I'd be all over this! Hopefully he'll offer a DIY kit or bare PCB, I'd definitely be interested in building myself a 2nd one if so. $30 for the adapter cable is bonkers though.. They're very simple & inexpensive to make, ie. Genesis extension cable & 9-pin JST header/connector and you're off to the races. Above all, I'm curious how he implemented the controller logic without using an external power source. I'd love to see a gut shot. 🤔 Really glad he was able to have an independent 3rd action button (and didn't go the ol' button 1 & 2 to be pressed at once to get button 3 to work/Jay Tilton method). That's a huge advantage over the retrogameboyz version. 😎

Great job! That looks really cool. Kind of a bummer about the .rom file extensions though.. I prefer those since they're an all in one, self contained file, but as was mentioned, I guess it could always be written into future firmware. Definitely interested in a DIY kit, or maybe a complete unit, whenever they're ready. 👍

Thank you! 🙏

Hopefully this is the right thread, but I just wanted to give a big shout out to @Andrew Davie for printing me a couple of his super rad PlusCart shells. I've been wanting to ditch my plain black shell for one of these babies for some time now, so I'm glad to finally have one. 😎 He really knows what he's doing, as they're by far some of the best looking 3d prints I've seen. The textured/grain on the shell is really the cherry on top, making it look very professional and gives injection molded shells a run for their money. The 3d printed label insert is really cool too. 👍 Looks aside it's a just great design overall, thanks to the pegs that allow you to easily separate the shell if need be, unlike prying open standard Atari 2600 shells, which I is something I always struggle with. Anyway, I highly recommend these.👍👍 Here's some pics!

Won't the 2609 coupler work with the Flashback controllers though? I haven't tried it yet, but they're both pretty much the same dimensions.. really miniscule differences were talking, shell wise. My caliper is a kind of a piece of junk, but I only measured roughly .3mm or so difference between the two.

One sold, one Pending. Everything else is still available! Thanks

Aw man, the roms are gone. 😕

Purchased! Thanks for making the ROM available. 🥳