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xrbrevin

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About xrbrevin

  • Rank
    Dragonstomper

Profile Information

  • Custom Status
    Mr Ziggy loves to extend the 1050 heatsink!
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    NW England
  • Interests
    800 - NTSC
    Incognito

    600XL - PAL
    64k internal memory upgrade
    UAV Video board

    800XL - PAL
    Antonia internal ram board
    UAV Video board

    1200XL - NTSC
    Ultimate 1mb internal memory upgrade
    S-Video mod
    New keyboard mylar membrane

    130XE - PAL
    320k/576k external memory upgrade
    Ultravideo XE S-Video mod
    New keyboard mylar membrane

    XEGS - PAL
    128k internal ANTIC mod

    65XE - PAL
    128k intenal ANTIC mod
    Ultravideo XE S-Video mod


    PERIPHERALS:

    1050 mini speedy disk drive - green mod
    1050 happy disk drive - green mod
    1050 disk drive - "old b.o.b." - resurrected & USDoubler'd!!
    Indus GT disk drive - revived & new ROM!!
    Rana Systems 1000 disk drive - Intel CPU
    Rana Systems 1000 disk drive - MOS CPU

    1010 - silver label
    1010 - orange label
    410 early model (handled)
    410 later model
    XC11
    XC12

    SDrive-Max
    SIO2PC (Lotharek)
    SIO2SD (Lotharek)
    SDrive2
    Mini810

    Ultimate Cart
    MyIDE2
    SIDE2
    The!Cart
    SIC!
    XEGS Ram Cart
    Homebrew XEGS Ram Cart x3
    UNOCart
    Sys-Check V2.2
  • Currently Playing
    M.U.L.E. of course!
  • Playing Next
    ...maybe Bruce Lee, Schreckenstein, Beach Head II, Pharaoh's Curse, Ninja, Dark Chambers, Xenophobe, Dandy...

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  1. if your atari ROM has a sticker on it then it requires the same 4x jumper positions as the USD EPROM. it is as in the image. if the 2x jumpers on the right are over to the right then it is only compatible with the PROM type (no sticker) and will not boot.
  2. perhaps they are so hard to find is because they are deemed unfit for purpose (caca) and have long since been superseded to a more reliable design? one machine i had, some of the pins in the socked had actually snapped but remained in place. so visually the looked intact but when i desoldered them, they fell out of the plastic holder in 2 halves! if working, i leave them alone, if broken, i would replace with a modern design
  3. the drive i had that just illuminated the power LED was due to a ROM issue. USD mod fixed it.
  4. the power on self test sequence is as follows: 1. 6532 verification 2. WD279x internal function test 3. (E)PROM vaildation 4. RAM check 5. Error flag - if any of the above fail then drive motor spins for 2 seconds, then testing ceases 6. Track zero seek here is a copy of the service manual, kindly rebuilt by one of the forum dudes. the above info is on page 2-2 yours doesnt even do the motor spin. as an aside, have the mech in another working 1050? but since you say the speedy worked, that requires removal of CPU and EPROM so i would check around those areas. if you have spare voltage regulators, maybe its worth swapping them over in case one or both is failing under load? 1050FSM-Rebuilt - AKH.pdf
  5. too right for removing the speedy, theyre not cheap to replace..! has your drive had the small caps removed by the SIO sockets for the speedy install? the WD2797s have the extra pin for double sided drives. since the 1050 is not, the pin is not connected. i think 1050s had WD2793s as standard but the WD2797 is a drop in replacement, as long as that pin is not connected. one of mine has the '7' chip and it is fine. have you checked the 4x zero-ohm resistors near the eprom? they have to be a certain way in order for the eprom to work. its usually over-voltage or voltage to the wrong pin that fries chips.
  6. haha, yeah. he knew i was working on it and wanted my attention - for feed! whats up with your 1050? or are you just browsing
  7. hmm those breadboard wires could be grouped into 3x8 plugs, hack the other end and solder into the keyboard PBC the labour-saving version 😎
  8. modern dupont pin headers have the correct pitch. i used one to repair one of my XLs a while back, here is a post on the forum with pics: i used an IDE ribbon cable and soldered it to the keyboard. the other end terminates in 3x8-pin dupont connectors and it works nicely. in hindsight, i wouldve sourced a 48-pin ribbon cable as a donor, only because the end product wouldve looked nicer 🙂
  9. current demand is reduced if you replace the 78xx regulators with switching/buck converter types but youre right, that old mech is a thirsty one..
  10. ah thanks for clearing that up, i guess mine must be NES units then
  11. weird - they DO WORK and theres nothing DC about them. i have about 3 of them and they are all run the atari hardware regularly and reliably. is it possible nintendo made them to a different standard in your region? maybe input voltage is an important factor?
  12. dropcheck uses a 4-position rotary switch on her mysterious XF551 mod board might be an option?
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