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xrbrevin

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Everything posted by xrbrevin

  1. This cart project uses a PCB that fits into the original Atari cart cases: https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=pl&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fatarionline.pl%2Fforum%2Fcomments.php%3FDiscussionID%3D4245%26page%3D1%23Item_0&edit-text=&act=url I just knocked up 3 just recently and they all work fine - highly recommended! Its basically an XEGS ramcart but instead you need an EPROM burner to get the data on to it Minimal components too
  2. there are alternatives - look on ebay for 7805 (and 7812) buck converter but try to get the fixed voltage rather than variable type i did a green mod using tracopower and they were relatively expensive. i then did another drive with the buck converter type and its equally reliable, cool running and theyre also happy to run off a nintendo power supply example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/5V-1A-DC-DC-Step-Down-Power-Supply-Buck-Converter-Module-7805/232435169675?epid=2178511580&hash=item361e37398b:g:mdwAAOSwl5pZhCVg theyre pin compatible and a direct replacement for 78xx regulators my ZX Nuvo uses the recom branded one and it seems fine hope this helps!
  3. gratz dude! tenacity is the secret ingredient
  4. sorry i cannot assist but can you extract the metal pins from a similar connector and fit them inside the plastic slot? im also struggling to find the flat ribbon connector for a custom keyboard i made, any suggestions would be great best regards
  5. try piggy-backing good RAM chips onto the mT ones to isolate the problem if you do take the soldering iron to the board, be very gentle - the XE range had cheaper assembly costs and the tracks will de-bond if youre not careful best of luck
  6. aside from the usual head & rail cleaning checks you can check the head, drive motor and stepper motor windings with a multimeter see sams computerfacts page 17: http://www.atarimania.com/documents/Atari_1050_Disk_Drive_Sams_Computerfacts_Technical_Service.pdf i went through my indus GT but the reliability problem was detected when i bought a modded ROM chip from Best Computing - it turned out the ROM socket had a bad contact(s) so i swapped it out for new and (touch wood) its been good ever since it is also worth swapping the whole mech out to try in a working 1050 and try a known good 1050 tandon mech in the indus you may be able to run the indus software for zero sensor and rpm calibration via an SIO2PC connection and an emulator - power the drive off and boot up the indus software up via SIO2PC. then click disconnect on the SIO2PC emulator and power up the drive. the atari is none the wiser and it should work with the drive hope you get it sorted!
  7. If youre handy with a soldering iron, you may want to swap out the 2 voltage regulators for modern switching equivalents they make the drive run much cooler and likely demand less amps. I use NES / SNES PSUs without any issue here is a guide: http://www.mathyvannisselroy.nl/Atari%201050%20goes%20green.htm there are many manufacturers for these components so shop around for a good price hope this helps
  8. Hi, Sorry to impose but my IndusGT was unreliable until i reseated the ROM IC I installed a fresh socket and it now works fine (i already cleaned the head and rails etc) i also deduced that is should run on 12v DC not 9v as is muted on some forums hope this helps
  9. Oon another note, do you know if I can burn my own OS ROM for the 65XE? I have found a dump file on the pigwa archives but I dont know if it is possible, let alone which blank IC to use Cheers Nick
  10. Hi, FYI, I just tried the 1200XL MMU in the 65XE and it would not work The screen is yellow with a white vertical stripe to the left I also tried the 1200XL OS ROMs but it wouldnt boot with either have a good one!
  11. i noticed the 1200XL MMU is labelled a bit differently but i didnt check the numbers... i'll dig it back out, give it a go and let you know what it does. Do you know why in-built basic would require a different RAM logic? just curious... i ought to study the 1200XL differences because it is an oddity model Dr.V - i think "gut feeling" is a secret ingredient in solving these puzzles, stubborn determination can help too lol. i had similar saga with 2x 1050s recently that taught me this. thanks to the kind folk on here they are no longer bricks, they are now: Happy and Mini-Speedy! (homebrew USD next) All the best Nick
  12. Hi All, The first time i desoldered XE MT RAM, i did the same. i learned the hard way but i have a much better feel for it now - every day is a learning day :S To rectify it, i found that most of the pins are shared across all RAM ICs in a discernable pattern - use a continuity test to isolate the bad track(s). i tested from the top IC to the bottom IC (testing through all 8 ) and if they didnt connect then i moved the test probes closer, 1x IC at a time and you soon narrow it down to the point of concern. Use a small piece of wire to bridge it to the neighbouring IC - PC IDE and floppy ribbon cables make great donor wire here retest continuity and when no bad tracks are found, power it up to test it doesnt look great but its invisible when assembled. mainly, it will save it from being condemned to "parts donor spec" i think Jerzy Sobola's schematics are nice and clear: https://archive.org/details/Atari130XE_Schematics Hope you find this helpful I tried the 320k upgrade but i was unsuccessful. i found out later that you need to also use the newer OS ROM (I think!) - the one that includes the 4x extended memory banks in the Atari self test. I would advise you scan the forums for reference to this as it was a bit disappointing after all the hard work!! Regarding the mention above re: 1050 cat-eye waveforms, the Indus GT service manual gives some worthwhile info here and it uses a Tandon mech like the 1050 so it may be worth a check out: https://computerarchive.org/files/comp/manuals/atari/INDUS_GT_Field_Service_Manual_(Atari).pdf have a good one Nick
  13. Hi, Thanks for the advice I realised i had to bite the bullet and get the soldering iron out - XEs have so few chip sockets... I found a leftover MMU from a 1200XL U1MB mod so I didnt need to program the PAL18L8 after all - i tried it in but it made no change I rooted further and the only 40pin Atari chip I could find was a CPU so I "socketed it" in and the 128kb 65xe now lives, again!! Youre gut feeling is spot on I am a little cautious tho - i'm not going to work it too hard for now. im just relieved to see it running and passing tests Sweet relief! All the best & muchas gracias Nick
  14. Hi ppl, Sorry to butt in on this post but im having similar issues with a 65xe that i modded to 128k. i used a genuine EMMU and thus no 74LS device was needed at U35 It ran fine for a week or so, just as a 130xe should. i left it running in 'attract mode' (zone ranger) and after a while it i noticed it had frozen on booting i now get a stable black screen - slightly lighter shade than the black border, if i plug in star raiders i get a browny-red screen. occasionally with a vertical cream-coloured stripe on the left side. i have tried using a sys-check II cartridge in diagnostic mode but i get the same results as star raiders. this would imply the RAM is not the issue i got a PAL16L8 with a view to programming a new MMU on my TL866CS EPROM programmer but i cannot convert the .src file to .jed (why isnt it available as a .jed has frustrated me... ) i had already socketed the MMU in readiness too :/ its tricky because the XEs have very few sockets, i cant do the swap test so easily! i have previously mended an 800xl and 130xe that would not boot but they had visible PCB issues - this unit is visibly intact any help would be much appreciated
  15. Hi, This looks great, could I please be included in this run for a cased unit? many thanks Nick
  16. hi, could i order 1x assembled unit please?
  17. Hi, Could i order one please? I did request about a month ago but you mustve missed it many thanks
  18. hi, can i order an assembled one please?
  19. Hi, mine is: 83S DA 79616 143 It now lives in England with a number of its brethren
  20. hi, very interested - one for me please apologies, i just saw i already posted a request - i just dont want to miss out!
  21. Hi, I would like to order one when available please many thanks Nick
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