xrbrevin

youll have to PM him, i dont know if this run of boards are allocated to people or if he has surplus? best of luck!

hi dude! Bryan got back to me with the following: "The cost for a Plug-In or Kit boards is $25 and a Basic board is $22. Shipping is $15"

a multimeter, a soldering iron, the repair manual, a broken drive and tenacity! http://www.atarimania.com/documents-atari-400-800-xl-xe-technical-documents_3_8.html it helps to also have a working drive so you can interchange parts you suspect to be defective. you should also get a copy of the 1050 diagnostic disk to allow calibration of drive speed and zero sensor. from my experience, 1050 component failures tended to be in the power circuit but other dodgy drives have been fine after a basic clean, lube and calibration as above. if you get stuck, start a forum thread and people will gladly assist

i dont think the xe range are any less reliable, they had lower production costs and thus feel a bit 'cheaper' some 800xe models in eastern europe are reported to have dodgy GTIA chips but there is a low cost fix available

sounds good, i'll give it a go! cheers

thanks - i bet youre right. its so uncomplicated, there is no guide!

thanks all - i hoped there was a "drop-in replacement" time to dig out my TL866 and root out an EPROM - i saw an OS ROM image that reversed the way option works so i'll give that a go :)

Hi All, As per the title, I have struggled to find a guide for burning a standard OS ROM. I found a lot of resources for advanced ROM modding - ie multiple switchable ROMs on 1x chip etc but I just want to burn a replacement standard OS ROM. Does anyone know if it Is just down to which blank EPROM you use or are there some other mods required? much appreciated!

are you entering self test via basic? i.e. by typing "bye" or "b." - if so, basic will occupy RAM and the self test will only show 40 blocks the way to show all 48 blocks is to power on (with no disk drive attached) whilst holding down the option key to enter the self test via no basic also, if your atari loads star raiders ok, it implies that your OS ROM is defective. you can buy another (some bloke on UK ebay sells them reasonably cheap) or i believe you can burn your chosen OS onto a blank EPROM but the only guides ive found on here are for doing so with advanced features - i can't find a guide to burn just 1x simple standard OS ive started a new thread to see if there is an easy way to do it

dammit! you had me going there for a second

i had to get it from china via ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5PCS-2-54mm-Double-Row-2X20-40Pin-Female-Right-Angle-Header-Socket-Pin-Strip-CF/272250587895?hash=item3f63664af7:g:T74AAOSwU1FXQS7f

thanks for the photos lol i can see how you got around the tight-fit issues - love the resourcefulness (proper modding!) here are the photos of mine. the problem i had was the right angled pin header had to go on the opposite side in order to close the casing. so i just removed all my wires and left it ready to tackle at a later date. i'll have a go this week

mycopyR and copy2000 are popular sector copy programs i use the hardware arrangement nezgar mentioned above with aspeqt emulator on my pc. load in mycopyR on the atari and create real disks in the 1050 from ATR files. it works reliably and supports the various high speed write buffer mods too. best of luck!

would you mind posting an image of your ramcharger? the one i made prevented me from closing the drive case when plugged in so i had to dismantle it and i havent re-attempted it yet i blamed this obstruction on using chip sockets so im particularly interested in your component orientation and that you used sockets without an issue i hope to be re-motivated! many thanks

the internal 64k mod is neat, 100% compatible and easy to do. just search ebay for: "41464 Dram" and buy 2 of them then all you need is a bit of wire and youre good to go!

correct me if im wrong - to distinguish an NTSC from a PAL 600XL: the NTSC version does not have a monitor port

im also interested in a ramcharger - even if its just the pcb

could i order one please?

looks good - but will he do his trademark "aa-oo" war cry when he spawns? hehe

crikey it sounds like it's had a hard life. ive had 3 or 4 410s but not encountered this before.. being old tech, it would be hard to find replacement parts. you may want to consign it to 'parts-spec' and acquire another, its probably less costly. if the remaining rubber parts are removeable, you could soak them in a 50/50 mixture of isopropyl alcohol and methyl saclicylate to soften and re-profile them. this should restore their grip but it wont solve your missing parts issue.. maybe you match them up with modern equivalents?

chip sockets can get 'clagged-up' with time - a re-seat is a worthwhile diagnosis

i wonder if it was intended for running a BBS or another non-mainstream purpose?...

send a pm to tf_hh and find out - he's a nice helpful guy

those keys are controlled by another chip (GTIA i think) whereas the rest are controlled by pokey. as a quick test, remove the intermediate resistor board and plug the ribbon directly into the black slot on the motherboard - it might work for you like it has for others. it didnt work for me due to the severed pins under the motherboard slot but its easy enough to try and doesnt make any permanent changes.

Can you describe your testing process in more detail? the tape drive should fast forward and rewind as long as it is powered. in order to play, you need to hold start, switch on the computer (youll hear a beep at this stage), press play, then enter/return (or any normal keyboard key really). the device will not play until you hit enter/return and can give the false impression of failure hope this helps