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xrbrevin

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Everything posted by xrbrevin

  1. it might be worth looking into the socket in case some debris fell in or a pin is adrift?
  2. hi, if you havent seen it already, check this out, it may be of interest: https://atariage.com/forums/topic/258702-new-development-gtia-in-cpld/
  3. hi, another vote to check chip sockets - it turned out to be the root of my IndusGT reliability issues (ROM socket in my case) here is a neat trick i learned (from Mr 1050) for a drive that wont load a disk: set drive to D1, all connected up but powered off on your SIO2PC emulator, load the diagnostic software onto the atari when loaded, disengage the emulator and power up the drive now any tests you run will relate to the physical drive - the atari knows no different! from this you can set the RPM, the zero sensor position and check a couple of other things hope this helps!
  4. Hi, My Indus was unreliable and it turned out to be the ROM socket, i replaced the whole socket but reseating all chips will help diagnose
  5. Hi, for fault #2, check the small electrolytic capacitor: C70. In a doa drive i got, it metered up as a dead short, causing the regulated 12v DC to short to earth, heating up the heatsink (the metal wall) very quickly! i replaced it and it solved the problem for peanuts hope this helps!
  6. extra 'dough' sent to help offset unexpected costs!
  7. Hi Dr.V - you are correct, i forgot about the unhappy mode because ive never had to use it yet! Im a happy Happy customer too I read somewhere that original Epyx disks are sensitive to this but its definitely a very minimal issue
  8. ...continued Or there is also the Mini-Speedy upgrade for the 1050 drives - for a little over 20 euros so much lower price than the Happy device If youre interested, pm Jurgen - his username on here is: tf_hh. He may still be knocking them out Hope this helps!
  9. The 1050 would be the least costly as they are the most common. Get double density with either the Happy board from Atarimax (a 'plug-n-play' solution) or a US Doubler mod which would require minimal soldering and an EPROM to be programmed. Happy drives are reported to have issues with some original game disks though The other drives are sought by collectors and seem to sell for much more Use an SIO2PC device and emulator software to copy from the floppy drive to an image file on your PC
  10. This cart project uses a PCB that fits into the original Atari cart cases: https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=pl&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fatarionline.pl%2Fforum%2Fcomments.php%3FDiscussionID%3D4245%26page%3D1%23Item_0&edit-text=&act=url I just knocked up 3 just recently and they all work fine - highly recommended! Its basically an XEGS ramcart but instead you need an EPROM burner to get the data on to it Minimal components too
  11. there are alternatives - look on ebay for 7805 (and 7812) buck converter but try to get the fixed voltage rather than variable type i did a green mod using tracopower and they were relatively expensive. i then did another drive with the buck converter type and its equally reliable, cool running and theyre also happy to run off a nintendo power supply example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/5V-1A-DC-DC-Step-Down-Power-Supply-Buck-Converter-Module-7805/232435169675?epid=2178511580&hash=item361e37398b:g:mdwAAOSwl5pZhCVg theyre pin compatible and a direct replacement for 78xx regulators my ZX Nuvo uses the recom branded one and it seems fine hope this helps!
  12. gratz dude! tenacity is the secret ingredient
  13. sorry i cannot assist but can you extract the metal pins from a similar connector and fit them inside the plastic slot? im also struggling to find the flat ribbon connector for a custom keyboard i made, any suggestions would be great best regards
  14. try piggy-backing good RAM chips onto the mT ones to isolate the problem if you do take the soldering iron to the board, be very gentle - the XE range had cheaper assembly costs and the tracks will de-bond if youre not careful best of luck
  15. aside from the usual head & rail cleaning checks you can check the head, drive motor and stepper motor windings with a multimeter see sams computerfacts page 17: http://www.atarimania.com/documents/Atari_1050_Disk_Drive_Sams_Computerfacts_Technical_Service.pdf i went through my indus GT but the reliability problem was detected when i bought a modded ROM chip from Best Computing - it turned out the ROM socket had a bad contact(s) so i swapped it out for new and (touch wood) its been good ever since it is also worth swapping the whole mech out to try in a working 1050 and try a known good 1050 tandon mech in the indus you may be able to run the indus software for zero sensor and rpm calibration via an SIO2PC connection and an emulator - power the drive off and boot up the indus software up via SIO2PC. then click disconnect on the SIO2PC emulator and power up the drive. the atari is none the wiser and it should work with the drive hope you get it sorted!
  16. If youre handy with a soldering iron, you may want to swap out the 2 voltage regulators for modern switching equivalents they make the drive run much cooler and likely demand less amps. I use NES / SNES PSUs without any issue here is a guide: http://www.mathyvannisselroy.nl/Atari%201050%20goes%20green.htm there are many manufacturers for these components so shop around for a good price hope this helps
  17. Hi, Sorry to impose but my IndusGT was unreliable until i reseated the ROM IC I installed a fresh socket and it now works fine (i already cleaned the head and rails etc) i also deduced that is should run on 12v DC not 9v as is muted on some forums hope this helps
  18. Oon another note, do you know if I can burn my own OS ROM for the 65XE? I have found a dump file on the pigwa archives but I dont know if it is possible, let alone which blank IC to use Cheers Nick
  19. Hi, FYI, I just tried the 1200XL MMU in the 65XE and it would not work The screen is yellow with a white vertical stripe to the left I also tried the 1200XL OS ROMs but it wouldnt boot with either have a good one!
  20. i noticed the 1200XL MMU is labelled a bit differently but i didnt check the numbers... i'll dig it back out, give it a go and let you know what it does. Do you know why in-built basic would require a different RAM logic? just curious... i ought to study the 1200XL differences because it is an oddity model Dr.V - i think "gut feeling" is a secret ingredient in solving these puzzles, stubborn determination can help too lol. i had similar saga with 2x 1050s recently that taught me this. thanks to the kind folk on here they are no longer bricks, they are now: Happy and Mini-Speedy! (homebrew USD next) All the best Nick
  21. Hi All, The first time i desoldered XE MT RAM, i did the same. i learned the hard way but i have a much better feel for it now - every day is a learning day :S To rectify it, i found that most of the pins are shared across all RAM ICs in a discernable pattern - use a continuity test to isolate the bad track(s). i tested from the top IC to the bottom IC (testing through all 8 ) and if they didnt connect then i moved the test probes closer, 1x IC at a time and you soon narrow it down to the point of concern. Use a small piece of wire to bridge it to the neighbouring IC - PC IDE and floppy ribbon cables make great donor wire here retest continuity and when no bad tracks are found, power it up to test it doesnt look great but its invisible when assembled. mainly, it will save it from being condemned to "parts donor spec" i think Jerzy Sobola's schematics are nice and clear: https://archive.org/details/Atari130XE_Schematics Hope you find this helpful I tried the 320k upgrade but i was unsuccessful. i found out later that you need to also use the newer OS ROM (I think!) - the one that includes the 4x extended memory banks in the Atari self test. I would advise you scan the forums for reference to this as it was a bit disappointing after all the hard work!! Regarding the mention above re: 1050 cat-eye waveforms, the Indus GT service manual gives some worthwhile info here and it uses a Tandon mech like the 1050 so it may be worth a check out: https://computerarchive.org/files/comp/manuals/atari/INDUS_GT_Field_Service_Manual_(Atari).pdf have a good one Nick
  22. Hi, Thanks for the advice I realised i had to bite the bullet and get the soldering iron out - XEs have so few chip sockets... I found a leftover MMU from a 1200XL U1MB mod so I didnt need to program the PAL18L8 after all - i tried it in but it made no change I rooted further and the only 40pin Atari chip I could find was a CPU so I "socketed it" in and the 128kb 65xe now lives, again!! Youre gut feeling is spot on I am a little cautious tho - i'm not going to work it too hard for now. im just relieved to see it running and passing tests Sweet relief! All the best & muchas gracias Nick
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