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xrbrevin

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Posts posted by xrbrevin

  6. Posted

    I have been asked for more details about the LDW DC PSU mod so i thought i would add it here for the benefit of any future enquiries.

     

    1. Remove the 2x rectifiers (RB5 & RB12) and the 2x voltage regulators (RG5 & RG12).

    289369605_LDWDCmod1.thumb.jpg.9e3b1577f0a310bf1b724f1d3cad57f6.jpg

    2. Make 2x PCB cuts marked by the pink lines in the image.

    3. Add 2x wires as shown in the diagram from just above the cuts to the output pins of where the voltage regulators used to be.

    (I have colour-coded both wires to show where to solder them - red asterisk is the 5v, yellow asterisk is the 12v.)

     

     

    1662582353_LDWDCmod2.thumb.jpg.8b5a2b62b57f554baf91eadc23cbfc1c.jpg

    4. Attach your DC-in wires at these points the in order to keep the power switch functionality. Red is 5v, yellow is 12v and black is GND.

     

    Thats it!

     

  8. Posted

    1 hour ago, flemingt said:

    Any recommendations on where to source these items?

    depends on your location

    the atari can output composite or svideo natively. so choose an AV cable that suits your screen inputs. for DVI, HDMI, VGA you will have to install a mod.

     

    for best RAM mod results, first upgrade the onboard RAM to 64k:

    this will make it 100% compatible with an 800xl. then you can install mods to go beyond 64k!

  14. Posted

    welcome to the forum!

    hmm, sound and keyboard are handled by the pokey chip. as is the paddle controller input...

     

    i had a similar sound issue a while back that turned out to be a single resistor failure:

    but first its worth checking if you have sound output at the AV connector.

     

    i recall having keyboard issues on a 600xl that turned out to be the edge connector socket on the motherboard side - i desoldered it and several pins fell out, already snapped. you ought to be aware that the keyboard will still work without the resistor board that goes between the ribbon and the motherboard. do you have a power LED? that is connected via the keyboard ribbon.

    hope this helps!

  15. Posted

    19 hours ago, ijor said:

     

    Sorry for being a little off topic ...

    Were those really illegal clones with unauthorized use of Indus copyrighted ROM? Or were they just something like an Indus second brand?

     

    i dont know if the ROM was officially licenced to LDW and california access or not but the Indus GT diags software successfully identifies the LDW ROM as version 1.20

  16. Posted

    Ive done this before, been stuck with a tricky repair so i created a topic. then i go on to solve it myself!!

    i think just the process of putting the problem into words and listening to the responses is a massive help.

    however the process goes, it ended up with a solution so many thanks to all for your input.

    i cant test the drive yet tho, the 3d printer is running and its in the way of my A8..!

    • Like 2

  18. Posted

    my mod required removal of the bridge rectifier parts and 2x voltage regulators. the input wires go to the switch as originally designed, power is then taken from the unused VR pins via the original filter caps before being delivered to the logic PCB.

    its a shame the drive suffered a bad choice of power supply specs and connector but a nice feature is that the switch grounds out any residual current when turned off.

  20. Posted · Edited by xrbrevin
    typo

    thanks for your input.

    The drive is a 'clone' of the Indus GT but not in every way. I think it uses the same ROM and PCB logic but the component layout is different and some ICs vary between them. The main difference is the drive mech. The Indus GT does use a Tandon mech - thus, a 1050 mech can be transplanted - but LDW uses the Roctec brand mech (same as the California Access CA2001 drive, which is also an Indus GT clone. see: https://atariage.com/forums/topic/228429-ca2001-g5-error-indication/?do=findComment&comment=3081976). I dismantled both of mine and took a photo to demonstrate. See below.

     

    Unfortunately, i do not have a need to make a Best Electronics order (and we all know Brad wouldnt respond too kindly to a small international request..!). I had a look on ebay but the generic torsion springs on there look too heavy duty for this application.

    I may pull apart a PC 3.5" floppy drive and see if theres anything of use dwelling within...

     

     

    IMG_2128.JPG

  21. Posted

    *necrobump* (for future reference)

     

    Find a PSU for an external 3.5" HDD. It will have 5v DC and 12v DC output but aim for suitable amps too.

    i found one in my PSU drawer and it works great! you just have to match up the connector and make a fascia (but a 3d printer easily solves that)

  22. Posted

    Does anyone know where i can buy a torsion spring for the read/write head of my LDW Super 2000 disk drive?

    I obtained the drive as spares/repair and it did not come with one, nor the top half of the head. I managed to 3d print the head part but I still need a spring.

    Although the LDW uses a Roctec mech, the 1050 spring should work but I dont want to cannibalise a working 1050.

    Many thanks for any help!

     

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