xrbrevin

We had the Lazer mod in the UK

does the happy mod require the jumpers to be orientated a certain way? i know the USD does

use high content isopropyl alcohol. the head is ceramic so you dont have to be too gentle if you find a stubborn bit 🙂

green beret 😛

could it have been modded for DC in instead of AC power?

@Beeblebrox pm me if you would like some guidance to get you going

polarity not needed!

..and prince of persia 🙃

yeah theyre fine, over the years the factory fitted these and various other types. blue ones, yellow ones, axial, monolithic...

Hi Beeble, Ive been in this boat myself - with the 1050 fascia. Altho i did find an .stl file, it's design was significantly unfinished and it was just not suitable so - necessity being the mother of invention, i endeavoured to design my own. I did so and although it was a bit frustrating at times, my need was my motivation to learn and the end result was worth it. my CAD skill leveled up too it is very convenient if designs already exist but if they dont it is a very nice gift to the community if you can create one. helps keep the beloved old hardware in good order. do you have an existing panel to copy or even a broken one - for measurements? it is easier to replicate it accurately than trying to 'retrofit' a gaping cavity and various screw holes. i know you only got your printer set up recently but what CAD software do you use?

buildplate adhesion can be a dark art... many variables to practice with but at least the feedback is clear and definitive the ender3 is a decent rig tho and worth the effort! 🙃

to get the best display on the monitor, you should use RGB however, the Atari doesnt use RGB - it uses luma/chroma which your monitor doesnt use UAV and various mods improve luma/chroma but im unsure if any homebrew devices generate RGB. maybe someone can advise if UGV or Sophia do so? or maybe you could use an upscaler device to convert the Atari signal to RGB?

here:

see here: http://www.atarimania.com/faq-atari-400-800-xl-xe-what-are-the-power-requirements-for-my-atari-components_59.html

you gave them a happy forever-home with abundant feed and comfort 🙂

ah apologies, i saw your tandon photo & thought it was a WST ive had maybe a dozen 1050s & im yet to see a WST in the flesh..!

here: link tested and work fine in a tandon 1050

if the basketball cart is the same as the star raiders cart then it bypasses the OS ROM. this could indicate flaky OS ROM so check it and the MMU (it latches the OS ROM on boot) the OS can be replaced by a standard 27xx series EPROM MMU can be replaced with a programmable GAL chip

not this then:

where can you get them from? i could do with a few

1 memory card appears to be populated with 256kb and associated additional glue logic the other has 16kb it would be nice to determine the quantity of extended RAM - use simple checker, xram, sysinfo etc

i believe the XF side2 data is written backwards and thus canot be read on a single-sided drive

ive had a couple of 1050s that had dry spindle bearings which made the drives noisy, despite working reliably. it requires unscrewing the upper steel frame to make enough room for access. there is a v.small circlip on the spindle. it allowed me to remove 1 bearing, which then gave access to the other. a dose of light oil and some manipulation and now they are nice and quiet 🙃

might be a bit expensive?

generic ones are available for cheap but you might have to swap the pin positions around to comply with the existing 1050 logic. this is the case for the ones i bought but they work fine when you crack the 4-bit combination 🙃 (it was helpful that the component symbols are cast into the plastic casing - see pic)