xrbrevin

if you stare at it long enough, you get a sinking feeling.. 🤨

still had to use the flash - British weather!...

i have a glass buildplate so i printed the thing face-down. this gives it a nice smooth finish except for the area around the power switch/LED. this required supports which has left a rough finish, i think if i apply decorators tape at the point where supports end and fascia begins then it should improve. to determine this i may have to print another prototype and observe the print height (z-axis) at the time. the max width is 193mm. i had to adjust my printer settings in the slicer software - increase the width of the buildplate in small increments until the object became valid. when printing, there was still decent room on either side 🙃 this design is for the Tandon 1050s, we dont seem to get the World Storage ones in the UK. i will take pics tomorrow in natural light and upload them to here. i doubt my camera could handle a black object under artificial light!

i C4'd the dead tree but forgot to retreat to a safe distance!! 🤔

looks quite mint - nice find!

You want the 1.2 ROM - modified by MrMartian. There is a topic on here with it available. Here is the associated documentation

i recently acquired a 1050 for spares which came without a fascia. happily the drive was easily resurrected with just a new zero sensor so i designed a fascia for 3D printing. it might also be of use for people who add switches to their drive - no need to drill the original, just print an expendable one! 1050 fascia.stl

here is a link to 'pale ivory' 3D printer filament. im currently printing an XL fujinet case from it and will post pics when done. first impressions are that it is not quite as pale as a retrobrighted XL but it is much lighter than a yellowed case. its the closest ive found thus far. https://www.3djake.uk/fillamentum/pla-extrafill-light-ivory?sai=2755 its paler than an Acorn Electron/Model B, may be ok for an Amiga...

take multimeter readings of the variable components and/or mark them before you move them so you can always return them to their original positions do you get any variation on the 'scope readings when you adjust the components? i only have a handheld oscilloscope and i dont think it operates at the ranges required. the target readings are as follows: VR2 - 230 nanoseconds (nS) VR1 - 1.0 microseconds (uS) VC1 - 125khz / 4.0 microseconds (uS) as far as i know, they are duration readings i.e. the length of the square wave, not the height

hi, youve found the right pin header. as for which pin is which, see the attached schematics. 'H' connects to FDC pin22 - 'TEST' so connect the GND pin here to put the FDC chip into test mode. comparing the diagrams, it looks the same as the LDW drive: pin 2 (WPW) adjusts via VR2 pin 4 (RPW) adjusts via VR1 pin 5 (VCO) adjusts via VC1 but i'd advise you test your circuit to make sure as i dont have a CA2001 - i have the LDW which is mostly similar and the IndusGT from which they were cloned. ca2001circuit.zip

ive seen this before. DRAM #1 has more 'responsibility' in the circuit than the other 7x. I think its called a 'tag chip' but clearly the MT DRAMs can struggle so Atari fitted 1x decent DRAM and 7x cheap ones. Maybe someone more informed can elaborate? yes they are pin-compatible and work as 4164s do. you can also use them in the 2nd bank of an XE as part of the 320XE mod.

love that badass steroid boss - with laser eyes! v.creative!! 🙃

if its anything like the IndusGT and LDW drives, look for a 5-pin header accessible from the side of the casing. you have to GND the TEST pin to enable calibration mode. the 3x other pins are the signals for your 'scope - 2x for variable resistors, 1x for variable capacitor

maybe a clone, there are many about

try this revised one, i think it looks better i tested both my DC power when under load and it turned out the 12v dropped to 7v when the mech is in use. the 2x head amplifier ICs need 12v so i thought i'd found the fault. i found an external IDE PSU with molex so i designed a port and wired it up but despite good 12v now, its still no joy. i found the datasheets for the ICs and they appear to be configured as motorola suggested. i inserted the read chip into my working Indus GT and it operates fine. unfortunately the Indus GT doesnt use the erase/write chip so i cannot test it the same way. maybe i should just buy one and find out. i also rigged up my oscilloscope to dial in the FDC chip but the signals are not stable, possibly due to the scope being unsuitable. i did the same testing on the Indus GT and couldnt get a decent signal on there neither! so i did an ohms and capacitance comparison and set the LDW to the ssame as the Indus GT. the saga continues IndusGT back panel.stl

Multi-boot disks could copy tape to disk but it could not do multi-load tape games

im not 100% sure but i dont think they were ever sold over here have you had a look on ebay USA?

the self test auto boots when there is a RAM, ROM or MMU issue this issue is intermittent so my guess is flaky MT RAM, like Beeble said sometimes an old electrical item from storage takes a few cycles to get the electrons flowing again so if you havent tested it that much, get back on that computer and play some more games! 🙃

its tricky due to the torsion forces when the screws are installed or removed. the bond has to be strong enough to resist. many people have had success using acetone. you add it at the breakpoint between the 2 broken halves and it melts the surface layers that then fuse together. ive never tried it, maybe if i win another 810 on ebay i'll get chance to..! 🙄

heat gun is a good tool for metallic label removal. it heats the glue back to a tacky state allowing for cleaner removal

nice resto/upgrade job, post a pic when its finished 😎 i wonder if a modern OLED screen could be used..

your print looks nice and sharp, purple should look cool tho 😎 the dimensions of the damper rod will have an effect on the speed the door opens. which in turn is governed by the spring tension. you may need to 'develop' your design to get a nice balance. thanks for the pics of the r/w head, i had nothing to go on! my home-made upper part is fit for purpose but i'll keep an eye out for a donor that matches the original. ive seen this sort before somewhere but i cant recall exactly. hopefully its not uncommon. im pleased to hear you got some reliable action out of it. i understand that direct drive floppy drives (like this one) have an electrolytic cap for the motor. this often goes out of tolerance for the usual reasons and is a cheap fix. hopefully its something as simple as this in your case. good luck!

thanks and youre most welcome! i suppose any material is ok for the door/lid: aluminium, carbon fibre, glass.. i wonder if clear filament is an option..? the california access drive is another clone that had no door could you send me a pic of your read/write head when you get chance? i also plan to change my mini-din power socket for a molex PC type as they use 12v & 5v at decent amps in a neat single brick. plus the mini-din plug hangs a bit as it is chunky. let me know if i can assist further 🙂

Hi, you get the idea about the damper unit - see attached pic and vid. i also included the schematics i have in case you dont have them. the side plates you designed in CAD are actually part of the smoked plastic lid. its all one piece - maybe for durability as it is directly pushed by the user to close it? hopefully your data issue is just glue logic related but its encouraging that it wants to live! i plan to spend more time on mine as i said above but i have a couple of other things to finish first good luck! MVI_3129.MOV