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bitfracture

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  1. bitfracture
    Yes, thanks so much for the response, but I've tried the C64, Master Systems, and done searches for both Victor Data Systems and Corona Data Systems. Wouldn't it make sense that a monitor like this would follow some universal standard for the time? That's what I am really hoping. Thanks again for the reply. I'll update this post if I do end finding more info.
  2. bitfracture
    I recently obtained a 1984 monochrome CRT by Corona Data Systems. The video input port was very similar to that of a CGA monitor (8-pin DIN) but it was a U-DIN or "horseshoe" type. When I opened up the monitor I used the labels to modify a diagram to what I think is correct. I'll post a few pictures below. My attempted modification (right) of a diagram for a standard RGBI cable (left). I have no idea if this is really right, I just traced leads with my meter following the labels shown on the board, here: The input from the DIN soldered to the board inside the monitor. Here are a few pics of my monitor, the DIN input, and the label on the back. Really what I need is an accurate pin diagram or name for this type of connection so I can obtain a cable or at least know how to make one. All of my searches have shown essentially nothing to support the existence of this video connector type. I need to be able to connect this to a CGA/EGA or even VGA output if possible. I understand for VGA there may need to be some way to fabricate the intensity value. All help and info is appreciated. Thanks
  3. bitfracture
    Going to give this a good going myself, but thank you for the contact. I will use it if all else fails The pins looked perfect. I had one heck of a time getting the darn thing out, and worse getting it back in... I swear the whole board was about to shatter :/ I feel pretty confident in the contacts though. I am concerned I may have accidentally caused the problem with U7 though. I am really shaky and have trouble controlling what my meter probes touch, unfortunately. I am going to try to get a few if I can find them, maybe it will make an IC worth the shipping for once! And yeah, honestly, I wouldn't have noticed the difference with the acronym name, haha, I read it the other way elsewhere and didn't even notice
  4. bitfracture
    Actually, that is what concerned me. Two of the caps (The smaller ones) are not 35 volts like the larger one, they are 25 volt caps. They are all rated at 4700 microfarad. I will respond to the rest of your comments later, I'm in a rush. Thanks so much!
  5. bitfracture
    I reseated U7, and the drive seemed to init correctly more often than before, but given a few starts, right back to where we were before. So you recommend that I order a new one to fix the cycling problem? I am also going to have to order new caps and an SIO2PC then, eh? I just want to be as sure as everyone else on this forum before ordering things, because it always takes weeks for things to ship. Thanks for the help.
  6. bitfracture
    I think we ought to correct all power problems before I do any chip replacement. I register half a volt of AC coming through the voltage regs, which means those caps aren't doing their job. I think if we kick that problem out of the way then we can be sure nothing else is going to get fried. I can't find anything labeled the 6532, what is the label name? I apologize for not having the most advanced electronics skills, please bear with me. On U5: Pin 8 is over 8 volts with motor running, pin 9 at relatively 7 volts, 10 at 3 volts, 11 at 1 volt. I don't know if that's supposed to be that way or not. All of the electronics I have dealt with were all 5 or 3.3, unless dedicated to driving higher or lower voltage equipment. This range seems weird to me.
  7. bitfracture
    It seems right now that the main trouble with this board is that it keeps going into that weird cycling mode, where the power to Q6 is cycled on and off instead of having a constant current, and the drive doesn't initialize. I adjusted the timing just perfect, but I can't test it. The drive is cold, all cables are correctly in place, and it was working moments ago. I don't get it... Also I'm measuring this same on/off behavior, but at 7.3 or so volts on U5 during this.
  8. bitfracture
    If I make a single mark on the spinning part of the drive, I can set the strobe, then adjust the spin until the mark appears to not move.
  9. bitfracture
    Thank you russg, but I think I will end up buying one. I don't have access to many components nor the want to add any more personal error potential to my project I removed the caps, they seem to charge and discharge exactly how I would expect them to. I cannot find my cap tester, darn it, but if I do I will tell the results. I was testing these things using 12 volts 2Amp in parallel with a CPU fan. The voltage rises and falls like I would expect, but I also don't really know what to look for.
  10. bitfracture
    Are these even stock caps? Every pic I find of the Atari 1050 seems to have different ones.
  11. bitfracture
    I am wanting to get that, and I am watching one on eBay, but those things are so overpriced, it's a killer... Am I able to daisy chain the SIO2PC out of the SIO port on the 1050? If my OS is on the thing I would think that would be important, but I heard something about the SIO2PC using all IO channels for virtual drives and I don't know if that would conflict with the physical drive, being on D1 currently. I actually did get a strobe light today, I can fine tune it too, it's excellent. I just need to know exactly what to tune it to. It gives me a digital readout on the top of the strobe, I -think- that it displays rotations per minute. I could be wrong. What do y'all think? It's this expensive thing: http://www.grainger.com/product/5AY35?gclid=CK7rkPiBlbwCFat7QgodSkwAQg&cm_mmc=PPC:GooglePLA-_-Test%2520Instruments-_-Nonelectrical%2520Properties%2520Testing-_-5AY35&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=5AY35&ef_id=UYrAoQAAALhAZ3tT:20140123191932:s
  12. bitfracture
    I don't know the voltages I should look for because the service manual isn't much of a help in that area. I posted the voltages at the regulators above but I didn't get much of a response to that. I need a manual with voltages laid out. I can check the IC's by their datasheets, but that's about it.
  13. bitfracture
    I am trying to do just that. I have been watching eBay and looking through thrift shops. I want to get another very badly. I've also been on the lookout for tape drives, those things are neat. On the topic of the cooling process to locate dead chips, how would that work? Are we just waiting for the device to trip up when we cool a particular component? It seems to me that such a process would only highlight broken solder leads (If not break more of them)
  14. bitfracture
    Do you think it is worth it for me to purchase dos on a cart? If so, which version? Also to follow up what I previously said, the drive fails after it gets hot and starts to cool down. If I leave it for a long time it fires back up good as new (Well, kinda, anyway... because it still won't read a disk). I will get out a magnifying glass tomorrow and look for cracked solder points. With good luck I may just get myself a strobe to test RPM's with, but I will need some guidance. I don't have a single element of software for my 800XL that isn't on a floppy.
  15. bitfracture
    Oh boy, now it's monumentally screwed. When I power it on, it spins, then stops, then spins, then stops... and so on. It did this once before, but stopped and went back to normal. I'm getting seriously frustrated. All I've done to this thing is try adjusting the potentiometer up and down. I'm sure it's way out of the correct time by now, but for things to just quit like this is really weird.
  16. bitfracture
    I can't boot anything... at all... because this darned drive is toast right now. Also, I don't have SpartaDOS or any way to format a disk with it. Also I took some DC voltages at the regs, I figured if the power input was screwy, that would be a good place to find out. Can anyone verify if these look healthy? Yes, they do drop a little when the motors are running.
  17. bitfracture
    So, this is going to be more of a guess-and-check game than I thought... As for the caps, would that be the large ones near the power input? Because replacing those darned things might take a long while waiting for them to arrive and getting them switched out. What I have been told is that dry caps will register as good on a cap test, but will flunk out under a load. I need a sure way to test them before just replacing all 10 to 15 some-odd caps on this board. In order to get a sure speed, can't I just set my speed tester to the right frequency and use the decals on the motor? If I have to use a different frequency I can, just as long as I know what it needs to be.
  18. bitfracture
    Slightly unrelated but important question: Why is the heat-sink hot enough to burn me after 5 minutes? I can always modify it, there's lots of case space, but I am wondering if it is supposed to get this hot in the first place :/
  19. bitfracture
    I am always so worried to mess with those things, haha. I don't see a normal pot on this thing. I do see that orange box (VR2). Is that a tiny screw sticking out of the top? This thing feels like it is going to break off if I wiggle it any more... I don't know how I will get the glue off of the screw without ripping the whole dang component off the pcb. EDIT: Got it clear of the glue! That stuff sucks... anyway, I will see what I have in my shop for timing, but it's not likely I have what I need. I will have to bring it into the school around here and borrow their equipment. It just might take me a week.
  20. bitfracture
    Thank you for the replies. I am going to try to obtain a light tester for RPMs so I can at least see whether that's a problem or not, but it might be a while before I get back with results, just due to the inconvenience of it. I will get back with results as soon as I can. I am wondering though, what would I do to adjust the RPM if it is off? There isn't some variable resistor down there, is there? I don't know how one would correct the speed of a step motor without changing the clock circuit... The field manual refers to that section as the PIA. I really need something I can adjust on the fly while running the RPM test to get it just right. Where do I start? "The DC motor includes an internal Tachometer, whose output is monitored in the tach feedback circuit. The Tach Feedback circuit senses the changed in current and maintains a constant motor speed. " - 1050 Field Service Manual If that's so, I would think the drive would be auto-adjusting...
  21. bitfracture
    I think that link got a little messed up Edit: Thanks
  22. bitfracture
    Hello AtariAge community, I am hoping some of you could provide some insight into a problem I am having with my Atari 1050 floppy disk drive. For years the drive has worked seamlessly with my Atari 800 XL... but when I pulled it out and started it up just recently, I only got one successful boot out of it, and it hasn't worked since. I know this is rather open-ended, so I will provide some information on what I have tried so far. I cleaned the reader heads, so no problem there. I heard that the read arm is supposed to travel the full length of the read track upon initialization of the device. Whether this is correct or not, my device does not do this. It travels maybe a fourth of the way and then back. I tried the following program which I grabbed off of another forum: 5 GOSUB 1000 10 POKE 769,1 20 POKE 770,33 30 POKE 772,0:POKE 773,64 40 Z=USR(1536,58451) 50 ? "FORMAT STATUS ";Z 60 FOR R=1 TO 30 : POKE 778,R : POKE 779,0 70 POKE 772,0:POKE 773,64 80 POKE 770,82 90 Z=USR(1536,58451) 100 ? "READ SECTOR ";R;" STATUS ";Z 190 NEXT R 999 END 1000 A=1536:TRAP 1030 1010 DATA 104,104,133,213,104,133,212,32,17,6,132,212,169,0,133,213,96,108,212,0,-1 1020 READ D:POKE A,D:A=A+1:GOTO 1020 1030 RETURN This program formats the disk, then gives a status number in return. It then checks individual sectors from 1 to 30, and gives the read status. During the formatting process, the arm moved the full length of the floppy disk and appeared to be doing exactly what it should, however during the read phase, the disk drive reader arm did not move at all until the 21st sector or so, where it began to twitch with each sector read. Still every transaction with the drive returned a status of 144, which is a "Device Done Error" according to this website: http://page6.org/archive/issue_22/page_10.htm. "This error occurs when you have issued a valid command to the peripheral but the device is unable to carry it out" the page says. I have received a request from a friend to replace all electrolytic capacitors, because even if they do not burst, they are prone to drying up over time. Does anyone want to support or deny that statement? If so, is it possible that the caps dragged other more important (and harder to diagnose) components with them? Sorry for the load of information, but any help on where to start with this is greatly appreciated. Thanks, BitFracture
  23. bitfracture
    I am going to create another topic about an unrelated problem with my 800 XL setup, if y'all don't mind checking it out, that would be fantastic. Thanks for your help
  24. bitfracture
    Okay. But I also tried this: And that's connected to a cut-open composite connector, and boom, perfect video. The resistor stuff will help if I want to create a cable, but really all I need is a cable that does exactly what the above diagram does. Preferably also having sound output like my current cable.
  25. bitfracture
    My main board didn't appear to have any modifications. This thing is all vanilla as far as I can see. Okay, now we're getting somewhere. Finding 5-pin DIN to anything is hard... do you recommend I look anywhere in particular? I don't know how I will know if the cable is one type or another... I don't want to cut this one because I also use it with my TI99/4A (which happens to have a burnt out video processor at the moment, but I will fix that too!). But yeah, I need some guidance as to what I need to look for and buy. I can experiment with solder leads and alligator clips for now if you guys can tell me which pins to plug into Thanks guys
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