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Nebulon

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Posts posted by Nebulon

  3. Posted

    Anyone know a good budget fighting stick for the Playstation 2 that works well for Pac-Man and Ms Pac-Man? 

     

    I've tried a few brands of varying quality already, but the throw is too long -- making it tough to make the corners in the mazes.

  4. Posted

    Inspired by seeing vector classics like Gravitar and Major Havoc running too fast on the Xbox One, I decided to start this thread. 

     

    The question is, what home ports of classic games do you think ended up being a disaster? It could be for any console from the SNES/Super Famicom on up to present day. In particular, the ones that I find most interesting are when the console clearly has the stats to bring the arcade experience home but, due to whatever reason (usually a lack of attention to detail on the part of the programmers or studio), just doesn't.

  5. Posted

    Anyone been successful getting the Chinon FZ-354 DS/DD 3.5" diskette drive working on an Amiga? If so, I don't suppose you could clue me in to as how you did it, could you?

     

    I've have two of the Japanese version of the FZ-354 and so far I've tried two different configurations:

     

    One with just J2 soldered closed.

     

    And the other with J18 closed and J20 open (J2 was left alone on this one).

     

    Both drives have their jumpers set to:

    DS0, MM, RDY, and TTL/C-MOS

     

    I'm trying to get either one of them working as DF0: on a stock Amiga 2000.

     

    So far, I've read every page in the following forum and no go (that's where the advice on soldering pins together came from):

    http://eab.abime.net/showthread.php?t=30944&page=22

     

    And, yes, I have a couple of working Amiga Gotek drives. However, I still like using diskettes.

  8. Posted

    Well, for what it's worth, I tried the following and they all scanned both NTSC and PAL successfully -- using the matching Amiga RGB cable:

    Commodore 1080 (Toshiba), 1084 (Philips/Magnavox), 1084s (Daewoo), 1902 (Philips/Magnavox).

     

    Before you buy an RGB cable, be sure to check the back of the monitor to see if it's a DIN (round) or D-shell (rectangular-ish).

     

    Philips/Mag usually use these:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Amiga-23-pin-female-to-6-pin-DIN-male-monitor-RGB-video-cable-Used/303332375571?hash=item46a004bc13:g:2rsAAOSwglldr-QK

     

    Daewoo monitors typically use D-shell:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Amiga-23-pin-female-to-9-pin-D-female-monitor-RGB-video-cable-Used/293292762956?hash=item44499c674c:g:QEEAAOSwIRhdr-Xt

     

    https://gona.mactar.hu/Commodore/monitor/Commodore_monitors_by_model_number.html

     

  9. Posted · Edited by Nebulon

    Does anyone know where I might be able to find a repair manual PDF for a Magnavox Commodore monitor? 

     

    In particular, I'm thinking of the Magnavox 8CM515 (AKA the Commodore 1902A).

     

    Many eons ago, I watched someone repair this one (it was making a high-pitched noise). While working on it, he said that it was usually the backplane for the flyback transformer. He then placed the monitor on its front, took the rear cover off, and re-soldered 6 or 8 points with high-temperature solder. That same monitor worked fine for another 20 years. He's no longer in my neck of the woods, and I'm looking to have this monitor repaired again (since it started acting up just last week).

     

    If anyone has any tips or experience fixing flyback issues on 1080, 1084, or 1902 monitors, please feel free to post your wisdom here. I can then relay that to someone out here who might be able to get it up and running again.

     

    Here's a few links showing the type of monitor that I'm thinking of:

    http://classiccomputers.info/down/monitors/Magnavox_Professional_80_Model_8CM515.pdf

    https://gona.mactar.hu/Commodore/monitor/Commodore_monitors_by_model_number.html

     

     

     

  10. Posted

    On 10/22/2019 at 9:19 AM, cbmeeks said:

    I don't remember the exact procedure, but I think if you hold down the mouse button, you can boot an NTSC 1200 into PAL mode (or vice-versa).  I may not remember the exact details but it's something like that.

     

    However, make sure you have a display that will handle both signals.  My 1084S (NTSC) will not handle PAL signals.  Only shows B/W when I try.

    Most 1084 monitors will display both NTSC and PAL. Assuming you're using the RGB cable to hook your Amiga 1200 up to the 1084s CRT, is it possible that you're sending AGA Workbench screen modes that are intended for a Commodore 1942 monitor? Those higher resolutions will also show up as black and white on a 1080 or 1084 display.

  15. Posted

    This is probably the best documentary on the Amiga that I've ever seen (and I've seen quite a few). I only know a tiny bit of German, but even if you don't understand it, you can get the gist of things pretty easily. Plus, I think most of us know the main plot points in this story:

     

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HuAsF245G4Y&t=1s

  21. Posted

    From my experience, there are actually a ton of games that are picky about which ROMs are in your Amiga (with 1.3 being the most compatible, by far).

     

    As for the NTSC/PAL situation, you could hook a mouse up to the CD32, hold both mouse buttons, and select PAL from the menu that comes up. There's an expansion module that lets you hook a diskette drive up to the CD32.

    http://amiga.resource.cx/manual/SX-1.pdf

     

    And you're right, there isn't (to my knowledge) a Kick 1.3 option for the CD32.

     

    Your best bet is to decrunch the PAL versions of the games to diskettes and run those on the A600 (pretty much every game ever released for the Amiga has a PAL variant), and maybe consider a ROM switcher for the 600. Or you could drop an 8372A blitter into a Rev.6 A500 and switch to PAL whenever you like (no cutting or soldering required).

     

    ADF2Disk is your friend:

     

  22. Posted

    Just a quick note for anyone out there looking to get a switching power supply for a Midway coin-op....

     

    Make sure the number of amps on the unit's 12-volt rail is high enough for your machine or you might end up with audio issues. 

     

    For example, the one recommend for TRON on some of the arcade parts supply sites is a 2-amp model. That's cutting it pretty close. However, there's a 5-amp unit that works with the very same MCR adapter.

     

    P.S. Spy Hunter requires a lot of juice and the 2-amp power supply definitely won't cut it on that machine.

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