krslam
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Posts posted by krslam
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15% off isn't very appealing since they started collecting 10% sales tax on shipments to WA state.
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Although the unit worked fine when last powered up, I think I should replace the corroded screws (you can see some in the photos) and clean out the flakes that are coming off them just in case those flakes are conductive before trying it again. I'm not familiar with what sort of corrosion that might be given the odd yellow-green color. It's only on about half the screws and no other components.
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I've been contacted by someone local who wants to use his LTO flash to read the ROM, but it'll be at least a few weeks before we can try that. Meanwhile, here's some more pix to try to fill in the missing info. The contrast of the writing on some of these chips is very poor so let me know if I need to read off any of them for you.
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Maybe we should leave the Amico Q&A thread and do a new kiosk thread. Im sure we already had something like this a few years ago.
Agreed. I've posted the kiosk pics here:
http://atariage.com/forums/topic/275715-retail-kiosk-feature-summary/?p=4236209
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I mentioned in another thread that I have one of the switchboxes from the guts of a kiosk, and decle asked for photos. I notice that mine has fewer and different stickers than the one in the video. The attached games were in the unit when I picked it up at a church sale several (16?) years ago.
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Good news: I was able to excavate the switchbox and take a bunch of photos and will post those in the kiosk thread decle linked above.
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Cool! How/where did you find it?
I'll answer the easy question first. I found the switcher along with a keyboard component and a number of other non-intellivision computer related bits at a church rummage sale in 2003. There was an entire room full of computer stuff all donated by the estate of a recently passed church member. Most of the items still had goodwill price stickers so I assume that's where the donor picked them up. They were marked at $5 each but I got both the switcher and KC for $5 total because they had sat ignored all day (had to go after work) and the sale was closing up.
Hey Krslam,
Apologies for the off topic post. However, about a year ago I did a bit of a write up of the functionality of the kiosks, largely based on this video:
Since then, I found that the Intellivision Library has some images of the internals of the switcher, including this one (why is it that the technically most interesting image is always the last one on the page
):
This picture is interesting because it suggests that the top right connector, which is marked as being "for Intellivoice use" is a male card edge, which is rather strange:
Anyway, while these pictures are great, unfortunately they're not quite detailed enough to be able to identify the parts on the circuit board (including the really interesting looking big 40pin IC
). It would be really cool if you could post more / better images of the circuit within your switcher to the main kiosk feature thread, especially any that allow the part numbers to be read from each of the ICs on the board. I'm thinking more like this image of a t-card (click to see full detail):
With images like this we can have a stab at reverse engineering the details of how the switcher worked and document another little bit of Intellivision tech in a similar manner to what has been done with the Blue Whale development boards and PlayCable
Please drop me a PM if you would like to discuss this more.
Cheers
decle
I'm happy to help with better pictures but you'll need to be patient with me as I'm going to be otherwise occupied for a few weeks. Then there's the logistical problem of putting my hands on the unit as it's in a closet with, quite literally, about half a ton of stuff that'll need to be moved to get to it.
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Off topic, but I wonder if anyone here has one of those store displays or parts from it. All I have are the black flip cards you see in front of the Intellivision console.
I have one of the multicart switchboxes that's inside one of those display units and which, when connected to a console, cycles thru whatever games are plugged in. Not knowing what it was when I found it, I contacted BSR and was told it came from a kiosk like the one shown.
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Sold Matt a 7800. Deal went perfectly. Highly recommended.
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I've got a spare NTSC machine and am also in the Seattle area. Pm me with an offer if interested.
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There are light detecting sensors of some sort that register when a page is turned and the corresponding sensor is uncovered. Look at the notches at the top of each page.
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It's a printer interface.
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I'll take one!
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Yeah, the VIS is easily the worst console I've played, makes the CD-i look like a masterpiece. I only have one because it popped up on Craigslist years ago for, I think, $40 including about 30 games. Weirdly, just a few weeks later I got a bunch more disks brand new for $1 each at a thrift, apparently dumped there by a local Radio Shack. Never saw VIS stuff in the wild before or since.
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Neither is a Sega CD game also a Genesis game, even though the CD unit requires a Genesis to run.
I attempted to apply this logic to the yahoos at pcenginefx, by arguing that PCe CDROMs are not technically Turbografx/PCe "games" (which run Hucards in their base configuration), and the base configuration of the PCe, Coregrafx, or Turbografx does not support playing them.
They countered that the base console without the CD attachment was an incomplete system (even at launch, because support for CD-ROM drives was planned into the device), and it was my own fault for depriving myself access to over half the library by cheaping out and not getting a "complete" system (defined as either a Duo or a core model with drive attachment). Those clunkers are not only stupidly expensive but suffer from rotten gears, dried caps, dead lasers, and a metric ton of other reliability issues.
Let's just say the thread did not end well...
By your logic, only Atari 800 games released on cartridge count, as those are the only ones playable on the base configuration. Tape & disk games don't count?
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If your Paypal payment was funded by a credit card, the card company may offer protection.
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Ha-ha. Fun read, and a nice follow-up to your Supervision work.
If you really want to torture yourself and explore the true glory of Tiger's prowess, make the R-Zone your next project. I've always said that anybody who thinks the game.com is the worst handheld of all time has never played an R-Zone. Happy headaches!
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I've had nothing but good experiences in the stores. Bought an Elite Pro membership there just to fill in some WiiU and 3DS games and by utilizing the Pro discount, B2G1 sales, and rebates I've managed to get most of what I want for less than half what the same games would have cost buying one at a time on ebay at average prices.
They're even cheaper compared to the independent used game stores around here who all charge above ebay prices, never have sales, run limited hours, keep everything locked up so you can't handle the games without getting an employee involved, and treat every customer as a potential thief.
I did try the online route during one B2G1 sale and it was a mixed bag as 3 of the 6 GameCube games I ordered came without the boxes/manuals which I would have preferred.
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The design was probably changed to reduce costs. Telesys, First Star, Sega, and probably some others also released 2600 games in different case styles.
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I clean them with alcohol and then use a q-tip to lightly coat them with 3 in 1 oil.
The cone assembly (plastic flower looking thing that mates up to the metal hub) is often the source of noise. There's a bearing on the cone shaft that you can oil but it's a bit involved to get the cone assembly out. I just swapped one out from a parts drive a few days ago because one of the plastic fingers broke off, so even those are getting brittle with age. Latch doors too, but someone has a file to 3D print them.
I've also read that a squirt of WD-40 on the stepper motor bearings can quiet them down. Keep each side upright for a while to let it soak in.
This is the factory manual for the Tandon drives. You may have Texas Peripheral drives which are nearly identical, but with some cost cutting involved.
http://www.bitsavers.org/pdf/tandon/TM100-1_-2_OEM_Operating_and_Service_Manual_48TPI_1981.pdf
Thanks for the info. Spent an hour today inside the model 4 and got 'er working! Amazing how much unused space there is in that big ol' case.
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What do you recommend as a lube for the drive rails? I need to do some refurb work on my Model 4.
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As a reference point, the even-rarer Atari 2500 sold at open auction on ebay recently for a bit over $10K
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Repro cartridges
in Sega Genesis
Posted
Unlike originals, repros (counterfeits) have no collectability value. If you just want to play the games without going the emulation route, you're better off investing in an Everdrive or similar and loading it up with the games that interest you.