Jump to content

Wyluli Wolf

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

182 Excellent

1 Follower

About Wyluli Wolf

  • Rank
  • Birthday September 20

Contact / Social Media

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
  • Interests
    Retro Gaming
    Movie Watching
    Craft Beers

Recent Profile Visitors

6,848 profile views
  1. Purchased a non-working Atari Lynx II awhile back in the hopes of repairing it. System did not power on when I received it. Attempted the 5V mod. The system now powers up but the screen is blank/white. I'm afraid I don't know enough about electronics to attempt further repairs. If someone else would like to give it a shot, here you go. I'll leave the cables unplugged and the 5v mod in place so you can troubleshoot. Cosmetically in nice shape and complete. See photo's and ask questions if you have any. $35 plus shipping Package weighs 1lb 7oz.
  2. I dunno if Shawn is still making these but I have two up for sale. Single button only. $75 each plus shipping. Purple is an IL Eurostick Red is a Seimitsu
  3. Just pay shipping via Paypal (and fees or send F&F). 3 Atari cables Atari 5200 pcb 4 Atari 2600 pcbs Gamecube board with some tiny components that need replaced or re-attached Weight: 1lb 10oz Shipping from Florida Send your zip code for an estimate.
  4. Took a whack at this. Using a multimeter in DC voltage mode, I used pin 1 for ground and pin 16. I set the multimeter to "2" and tried to measure. You need at least 4 hands to do this. I didn't see any reaction at all. I tried again at the lowest setting (200m) and 20 just to be sure. Nothing as far as I can tell. This was while holding SHIFT down (no reaction) and holding SHIFT+other keys (tried numbers and letters)..no reaction.
  5. No disk drive. Just the system, keyboard and xe light gun with a few game cartridges and the UnoCart.
  6. Wico has way to long of a throw. Best I've used is one I built with arcade sticks. I'm sure the Edladdin controllers would work the same. Strong so you don't have to worry about breaking them in the heat of game play. Shorter throw, excellent response. I have beat a lot of scores using this stick. Tac-2 is ok and the Epyx is pretty good for certain games. Best all around stick, definitely one built with arcade parts. I've attached a photo of one I have built. Build your own or buy one from somebody. There are lots of sellers on the boards. Just my 2 bits worth
  7. Thank you for the files. Looks like other folks are jumping in and downloading them as well. I have ordered some GAL chips and sockets so I can give this a try. Unfortunately, it will take a month or so for them to arrive. In the meantime, if anyone thinks of anything else to try, please let me know! NEZGAR - The Uno cart requires the use of the keyboard. You can not select anything with the joystick. I guess I did not make that clear in my post Thanks again.
  8. Does anyone have working code for the Atari XE game system MMU?

  9. I do not have a standalone Basic cartridge handy. I do have the Uno cart for the xegs which was my main motivation for getting this going since you sadly need the keyboard to use the cart. As a side note I have several game carts which all work fine. I programmed and socketed in the 27C256 EPROM using the code provided. She fires up ok but with the same results. In BASIC the keyboard keys still make the noise when keys are pressed. In the keyboard test mode there is no response at all except when the "HELP" button is pressed to exit the test screen. Found THIS for the MMU code but I'm not sure what the difference is between the two. One, apparently, is incorrect.
  10. The BASIC blue screen does show "READY". Have you tested that 32kb ROM file by chance to make sure it works? I guess I'll go ahead and de-solder the two chips and solder in IC sockets. I'll program a 32kb rom chip and see if that makes any difference. Please do let me know if you find anything on the MMU. I'll report back with the results. Thanks again.
  11. Does the system run the built-in Missile Command OK with no keyboard attached, and no cartridge inserted? Yes, it boots into Missile Command with no keyboard attached. With the keyboard attached, no cartridge inserted, and 'SELECT' key pressed during powerup, do you get Missile Command? Yes, if I have "select" pressed during powerup it boots to Missile Command. With the keyboard attached, no cartridge inserted, and powered up with no function keys, it should bring up BASIC. You say it makes a "boop" noise -- will it do this at the press of any key on the keyboard, suggesting the keys are OK? With keyboard attached and no function keys it powers directly into the blue basic screen. While in basic every key makes a sound when pressed except SHIFT, CONTROL, BREAK AND A. A programmed 27C256 EPROM is a pin compatible replacement for the original ROM chip. I have some 27C256 eproms. If you have the code and it's simple to burn, I can probably do this myself. Can you send the code to me? (I noticed you are in Canada so shipping will probably be high to the states..) The MMU can also be replaced with an appropriately programmed GAL. I have some GAL20V8B chips on hand. If this is the appropriate chip, I can also burn the code if it is straight forward. Do you have the code? Thank You!
  12. Since my original post is going on a year old (already? damn!) figured I would start a new one. I'm making one last ditch effort to fix my Atari XE game system (which was sold to me as fully working!). The system (after cleaning, etc.) does work (it definitely wasn't tested as most of the games would not fire up until I thoroughly cleaned everything). Original game cartridges fire up and joysticks work fine. When I fire up the system with just the keyboard plugged in, it boots to the basic blue screen. When I press buttons on the keyboard it makes a "boop" noise but no characters appear on the screen. If I fire the system up into diagnostic mode it passes all the tests fine. If I go into the keyboard test mode, none of the keys respond except the "Help" button which takes me out of the keyboard test mode. I have replaced the Mylar with a new one. I replaced both 4051 chips on the keyboard sub PCB. I replaced the Pokey chip within the system. I tested continuity from one end of the keyboard cable to the other end (seems fine). None of the above has made any difference or shown any clues as to the issue. Does anyone have any other idea's to offer? If it is not the pokey chip can I at least be certain the issue is something within the keyboard itself? Thanks.
  13. Yep, still looking for everything. If you wanna post or send some pics and prices that would be great.
  • Create New...