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Yellowman

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Posts posted by Yellowman

  1. Posted

    On 2/18/2021 at 8:44 PM, -^CrossBow^- said:

    I'm assuming that orange wire with the resistor added in is the TIA audio? Try removing the resistor and soldering that wire to the base of R6 instead directly next to the audio tune coil.

     

    I finally had time to try this out.


    I had removed the resistor and soldered the TIA audio cable to R6. 
    With this circuit, the TV / monitor must be set to 100% volume so that a very, very quiet TIA audio signal can be heard. 
    Now I had the TIA audio cable soldered back to C14 without any resistance. 
    It behaves exactly as if it is soldered to R6. 

     

    Ok, everything is fine on the PAL consoles. It is probably due to the NTSC console, or rather to the A / V conversion. 
    Unfortunately I only have one NTSC console. The problem NTSC console is a C025233-002 Rev.A board, from 08/1987. 
    Since I live in PAL country, it's not that bad for me. But still strange.
     

  3. Posted

    Hi,
    first of all: Dragonfly is fantastic. I love this little dragonfly.


    Unfortunately I also have this TIA sound problem, but only on my NTSC console with converted A / V output.
    On my PAL consoles, one with UAV (S-Video), one with simple A / V conversion and one original (HF tuner), 
    everything works as it should. No problem.
    Only the NTSC console is causing a little trouble. Original modules (NTSC) run perfectly. 
    BallBlazer with harmonized Pokey / TIA sound. Or Xevious with only TIA sound. 
    But with the Dragonfly, I have no TIA sound on the NTSC console, only Pokey and YM. 


    At the weekend I have to examine the conversion again carefully.
    It is the simple conversion that is also described somewhere here on AtariAge. 
    Apparently the audio circuit is different than with the PAL consoles.

    Atari 7800 NTSC AV Umbau.jpg

    • Thanks 1

  6. Posted

    Congratulations on first place. In my opinion, Last Squadron is the best vertical shooter on the Atari XL/XE. 
    It's a little easy for me. I played through all 4 levels several times. If you have defeated the first end opponent 
    (not the small opponent in the middle part of a level), you can use the same tactic on every end opponent.

     

    Shanty, thank you very much for this great game. I'm looking forward to an extended cartridge version.

    In the next ABBUC magazine, I will publish a game test about Last Squadron.

     

    Again to the Mega Drive / Genesis controllers. This game works on rebuilt Joy2 + and on unmodified controllers. With a converted Sega joypad, button A is the fire button and button B triggers the extra weapon, but this must still be operated with button A.


    On an unmodified Sega joypad, button B is the "normal" fire button. Button C triggers the extra weapon. Please note the following!! The Atari has + 5V on pin 7. These are always on the multiplexer chip in the Sega joypad. At some point, if the multiplexer is broken, the buttons on the joypad no longer work. See also here: 

     

    Converting a Sega Genesis controller (model number 1650 made in China) is pretty easy. Even I did it. ;)

    • Like 1

  7. Posted

    On 12/13/2019 at 9:10 PM, playsoft said:

    I was able to turn my Sega Mega Drive control pad into a 3 button joystick by (1) swapping around the wires from pins 5 & 7 so that +5V is taken from pin 7 on the A8 (2) removing the 74HC157 multiplexer (3) making the appropriate jumper connections between (what were) the multiplexer inputs and outputs.

     

    Note this is an original Sega Mega Drive 3 button controller model number 1650 made in China. I also have a model number 1650-50 made in Malaysia but that is different inside, the wires would be harder (for me!) to swap and the chip is surface mount.

    It may not work with all the JOY 2B+ hacks because I get small values when buttons B and C are not pressed (5 and 3) and those hacks may be looking for 0. However it does work with the 2 games that I have done, Scramble and Moon Patrol Redux which support Sega and/or JOY 2B+ (since I am more forgiving with my checks).

     

    Edit: Just tried the hacked version of Defender and it works fine! As does the hacked version of Dropzone.

     

    I used to play on the Amiga 600 with a Mega Drive Pad until it stopped working. 
    The multiplexer must have broken. Now I've seen your post and picked out the old pad again. 
    I rebuilt it according to your instructions. The board looks a little different. But the result is the same. 
    It works great. With all three buttons. I've tried almost all of the patched games with it. The model name is 1650. 
    Made in Taiwan. Thank you for this great tip.

     

    MDPad1.jpg

    MDPad2.jpg

    • Like 1

  9. Posted

    I got my AGACart about 3-4 weeks ago.

    This card is just fantastic. It is very well processed. The small box is also super nice.

    The quality is just amazing.

     

    There is no problem with the file system at all, and that "only" 199 files are accessible.

    I have my favorite games and some demos.

     

    Thank you for the nice hardware.

  11. Posted

    Hi there,

     

    Monty on the Run, runs without problems from a real floppy disk.
    I have the file from the link, from the seventh post (pouet.net).
    The xex file is 28585 bytes in size and has 3 segments. Charly your data from your attached link is 28707 bytes in size.
    And this file has 5 segments. The first two segments charge after $ 0400. If I remove these two segments, the file is the same size as that of pouet.

     

    I wrote the game on an Enhanced Formatted Disk and installed the NDos Converter.
    It runs flawlessly on my Atari's (various configurations), from a normal 1050, Happy 1050, Speedy 1050 and XF551.
    The program loads up to the cover picture with the music. If Space is pressed, the program continues to load and the game starts.

    The program consists of 3 segments. On the ATR is MotR (see link above) and the old NDos Converter.

     

    Since I have a SV Original Cassette, I once wrote the files of the tape version on the ATR.
    The tape version has 4 files (segments). Monty.cas, the boot loader. Which actually "only" loads the MotR.xex.
    Monty2, Monty3 and Monty4 are actually "only" the xex, but broken down into 3 segments so that tape can be reloaded.

    The tape boots, a screen appears with Loading ... Monty ...
    Then the tape loads up to the title screen with the music. If you press Space, the game continues from Tape and then starts.

     

    I didn't write the game back on tape and I don't know if it works. The segments 2 and 3 have no end of file marking on the tape (copy protection?)

     

    MotR_YM.zip

    • Like 1

  13. Posted

    About 8 years ago I painted a very strong, differently yellowed, Atari 1200 XL. Before I painted an Atari, I practiced other things.

    It is important to clean all dismantled parts and then to prime. After that you can paint with acrylic paint. I chose the RAL 1013 (Pearl White).

    I wrote a report in ABBUC Magazine 100 (in German). In all the years, nowhere has color gone off, although I take these computers, often to meetings.

    Attached photos of my painted 600 XL and 1200 XL.

     

    Atari 1200 XL

    Atari 600 XL

    • Like 7

  18. Posted · Edited by Yellowman

    So, Customs has no fault. A friend has it brought us (Thorsten and me) from the United States. As seen in the photo, the board is too big for the body. The housing can not be closed.

    Schief01

    On the Fujiama I had made a backup of the module. It's not Williams 32K, 16K and no ROM image. It is a ... (dare I say?). See photo emulator.

    Emuvent

    An Atari programmers looked at the file, and patched it for PAL.
    This ROM image now runs flawlessly (on real hardware) to PAL and NTSC.
    I've seen it on The! Cart written for testing. It also write to the "original" module;-)

    Cart01

    People do not ask me for an image dump. Who bought venture, it can save yourself.

    • Like 4

  19. Posted

    In March this year I got the game venture. Naturally, I was curious and tried it out the same.

    Unfortunately, I was very disappointed, it does not work on PAL Atari. The game always crashes after some time. See photo.

    Venture absturz01

    I've tried it on several PAL Atari and more it crashes. Luckily I have two NTSC Ataris, this it works just fine.

    Were there any beta testers with real hardware PAL? As with Tempest Extreem.

    Furthermore, a new module housing was used which can not close properly. The board is crooked in the housing. Even the packaging is very simple. The manual is a joke.

    For a game from the 80's it's OK. But for today, with poor processing (cartridge) and the thick PAL errors are the $ 39.95 too much.
    In Tempest Extreem, also of Atlantis Games, the game cartridge, packaging and instructions is much better.

    OK, this is my opinion.
    I respect the programmers who, programmed for 30-year-old Ataris.

  20. Posted

    Hi, I have little problems with mc29_d6.xex after installing Ultimate 1MB.

    Earlier in December 2011 was a VBXE V.2 installed in my Pal XEGS incl. Stereo Board, no Extra Ram.

    XEGS Os was removed and XL OS with QmegOS switchable was installed.

    With Core 1.24R works Moon Cresta fine. See my test in ABBUC Issue 109.

     

    In January 2013 was a Ultimate 1MB installed and Monn Cresta does not run correct.

    With plain boot from sio2sd, with XL OS (not XEGS), no extra Ram or 256 Kb extra ram, after loading, it does not start and screnn is black.

    With 512 Kb or 1024 Kb it runs but the stars are confused. With Core 1.24A or 1.26A.

    The switchable XL OS and QmegOS was removed.

     

    Is there a uptade from mc29, or a unpacked Version? Any ideas?

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