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About McWill

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  1. The main difference is the McWill LCD TM Logo and some optimized solder points. The quality is the same as before 😉 (as expected from McWill). So you can see the clone has bad quality regarding the audio buzzing. As mentioned before some people also said the clone isn't working. The reason could be that theses clones never were tested before shipping, because they have not the knowledge for this. The chinese just cloned it, sell bad quality and have no idea for testing things. After import taxes and shipping cost the clone would be more expensive than my original. And a faulty clone could also be happen.
  2. I've seen it also on Aliexpress and EBAY. I was able to stop the sales on EBAY, because they hurt my copyrights. It seems it is a McWill mod, but IT ISN'T! The PCB design is my previous design. I also tried to stop the sales on Aliexpress, but it's not as easy as on EBAY. The most important thing: They don't use high quality parts and I got some questions of "customers" that it don't work perfectly. That's true, beause it's NOT my mod kit! I also guess they have pixel issues, but who knows... It's incredible that people in China clone everything and sell it as "Original 100% brand"!
  3. No problem There's a short circuit at one of the pads of D0-D3 or they are mixed up. Please check again and it will work without issues Cheers, Marco
  4. For LYNX-I also look here: https://circuit-board.de/forum/index.php/Thread/4779-srdwa-Donking2000-Atari-Lynx-1-2-Spannungsregler-Umbau-SMD-Variante/ It's in german, but Google Translate will help you
  5. Look here: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/238692-how-to-installing-5v-regulator-mod-in-an-atari-lynx-ii/
  6. Thank you I would do the 5-Volt mod, but it's up to you. I had a working LYNX-II for testing my LCD mod kits and it was working fine. But after thousands of times switching it on and off, the zener diode got broken and my LYNX and the tested mod kit were "fried" (because the complete voltage of the power supply went through the LYNX - about 9-15V!)
  7. I would recommend to install the 5-Volt mod (RECOM DC/DC) to prevent any damages caused by a faulty zener diode. The original power circuit is a ticking time bomb. Also if the zener diode is new.
  8. No, but if you can switch between normal mode and scanline mode, you have the latest firmware.
  9. This could be very excited BTW my production for the GBC mod kit is already running. I presented the prototype in November 2018 on the Ejagfest in Germany. The final version has 32K colors and would be almost plug and play. Just 1 wire has to be soldered. You also can install a VGA connector, if you want. The case can be closed with the existing screws.
  10. With the thumbwheel you can switch between VGA and internal 3.5" LCD on the GG. You don't need to wire VCC and GND to the thumbwheel, if you don't use VGA out.
  11. For the latest firmware you have to send it to my address and I will do the firmware update. Then please send PM
  12. I have seen you used the wrong pin at the 74HC74 (the blue backlight wire). Please change and I guess it will working correctly.
  13. It was the case since the 1st batch, because the LCD is a little bit smaller than the original one. So you can see some of the silver LCD housing, sometimes only on the left or on both sides a little bit. I would also suggest to use a black marker. I guess the old backlight ON/OFF circuit is faulty. Try to exchange the 74HC74. The LCD mod only gets the info ON/OFF from this circuit, so the LCD mod can't be faulty.
  14. Yes, VCC is 5V (the lower side of R23). Then it will work
  15. You forgot the wire from T10 to VCC. Because it's a SMS game, the pixels will be displayed in another way then.
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