McWill

Yes, you need a wire to pad4 of the LYNX mod kit. Then you can switch between Scanlines on and off. Quick Guide_ATARI-LYNX-II_REV3_0.pdf

I guess someone caused a short circuit to the LYNX when this mod kits was installed. Perhaps the 5-Volt mod wasn't done. So a faulty diode damaged the LYNX mod kit. The main IC was broken, not the voltage regulator or something else. This board needs to be repaired with a new programmed main IC.

It seems the color palette is not correct. Perhaps there's a short circuit at the old LCD ribbon pads D0-D3 or some of them are mixed up. Please check these wires again.

Hi Al, you can ask @cowdog360 for example. He's also in the US. I also sent a PM of another person doing perfect installations in the US ? Cheers, Marco

The LYNX-I mod kits are only for the LYNX-I and the LYNX-II mod kits are only for the LYNX-II ? You can see white stickers on the PCB and LCD ribbon of the LYNX-I mod kit. Otherwise it is a LYNX-II mod kit!

Please check if you've installed a LYNX-I mod kit! I guess you used a LYNX-II mod kit. The firmware is different ?

The main difference is the McWill LCD TM Logo and some optimized solder points. The quality is the same as before ? (as expected from McWill). So you can see the clone has bad quality regarding the audio buzzing. As mentioned before some people also said the clone isn't working. The reason could be that theses clones never were tested before shipping, because they have not the knowledge for this. The chinese just cloned it, sell bad quality and have no idea for testing things. After import taxes and shipping cost the clone would be more expensive than my original. And a faulty clone could also be happen.

I've seen it also on Aliexpress and EBAY. I was able to stop the sales on EBAY, because they hurt my copyrights. It seems it is a McWill mod, but IT ISN'T! The PCB design is my previous design. I also tried to stop the sales on Aliexpress, but it's not as easy as on EBAY. The most important thing: They don't use high quality parts and I got some questions of "customers" that it don't work perfectly. That's true, beause it's NOT my mod kit! I also guess they have pixel issues, but who knows... It's incredible that people in China clone everything and sell it as "Original 100% brand"!

No problem There's a short circuit at one of the pads of D0-D3 or they are mixed up. Please check again and it will work without issues Cheers, Marco

For LYNX-I also look here: https://circuit-board.de/forum/index.php/Thread/4779-srdwa-Donking2000-Atari-Lynx-1-2-Spannungsregler-Umbau-SMD-Variante/ It's in german, but Google Translate will help you

Look here: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/238692-how-to-installing-5v-regulator-mod-in-an-atari-lynx-ii/

Thank you I would do the 5-Volt mod, but it's up to you. I had a working LYNX-II for testing my LCD mod kits and it was working fine. But after thousands of times switching it on and off, the zener diode got broken and my LYNX and the tested mod kit were "fried" (because the complete voltage of the power supply went through the LYNX - about 9-15V!)

I would recommend to install the 5-Volt mod (RECOM DC/DC) to prevent any damages caused by a faulty zener diode. The original power circuit is a ticking time bomb. Also if the zener diode is new.

No, but if you can switch between normal mode and scanline mode, you have the latest firmware.

This could be very excited BTW my production for the GBC mod kit is already running. I presented the prototype in November 2018 on the Ejagfest in Germany. The final version has 32K colors and would be almost plug and play. Just 1 wire has to be soldered. You also can install a VGA connector, if you want. The case can be closed with the existing screws.

With the thumbwheel you can switch between VGA and internal 3.5" LCD on the GG. You don't need to wire VCC and GND to the thumbwheel, if you don't use VGA out.

For the latest firmware you have to send it to my address and I will do the firmware update. Then please send PM

I have seen you used the wrong pin at the 74HC74 (the blue backlight wire). Please change and I guess it will working correctly.

It was the case since the 1st batch, because the LCD is a little bit smaller than the original one. So you can see some of the silver LCD housing, sometimes only on the left or on both sides a little bit. I would also suggest to use a black marker. I guess the old backlight ON/OFF circuit is faulty. Try to exchange the 74HC74. The LCD mod only gets the info ON/OFF from this circuit, so the LCD mod can't be faulty.

Yes, VCC is 5V (the lower side of R23). Then it will work

You forgot the wire from T10 to VCC. Because it's a SMS game, the pixels will be displayed in another way then.

The Majesco GGs are a bit complicated and complete different to the GG VA0 and VA1. But I will find a solution and let you know then, if the new firmware is available.

Yes, the LYNX-I mod kits (also the GG and LYNX-II mod kits) are available I'm also on the Ejagfest on 3rd and 4th November.

No, sorry. The datasheet of the MST703 has several hundreds of pages for different settings. And it wouldn't become pixel exact then.

Thank you. If you have a 20 USD PCB with MST703 controller it would be possible