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SpicyChronos

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About SpicyChronos

  • Rank
    Chopper Commander
  • Birthday 07/22/1974

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Columbia, South Carolina
  • Interests
    All Atari Stuff
  • Currently Playing
    Diablo III beta, WoW, GLTron,

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  1. Hi Mytek, It wasn't anything wrong on your website or parts list, I got the parts swapped. I think I was in a rush to build another board, and didn't watch the parts I used. All the bags looked the same from Mouser. It's all good!
  2. Helo Mytek, I actually had two of the resistor networks wrong. The one for the POKEY select and for the Left Channel. I wasn't getting any audio out. Started troubleshooting at the POKEY chip itself, and had audio at the 74HCT4066, and the one side of the C4. the other side was very quiet, and with the machined socket I installed, I couldn't tell what part I installed. Desoldered it, and it was the wrong part too. Now I have a working stereo board. I plan on fixing my first attempt, as I used the wrong pin headers to plug into the socket of the POKEY, and build one more as I ordered 3 boards from the PCB manufacturer. I have two more Atari's I want to upgrade, another 800XL and a 130XE. Plan on doing other mods to these too. I'm going to try and do Hias's 512K memory upgrade in the 800XL, and for the 130XE, not sure what I'll do, besides the Stereo board, maybe another U1M. Thanks all!
  3. All, It was the wrong part. RN3 wasn't the resistor network or array. I have it working now. I didn't mean to step on any toes over this, I appreciate all the help and hard work that goes into designing these great modifications for our little 8-bits. I look forward to seeing the newer firmware updates that come down the pipe, giving us more options to keep these going. Now to wire in the stereo RCA jacks.
  4. Hello FlashJazzCat, Thank you for the explanation of what is possibly happening with the TK-II stereo board and U1M. I will still look at that resistor network, and verify I put the right part in. I'll update shortly.
  5. Hi Rybags, I thought it might be shoddy cheap Chinese resistors I used, as two of them are for Pokey select (A4) and Stereo mode (MO). Replacing those, did not help. If I leave everything connected, and switch the Stereo mode in U1M, this is when the keyboard will not respond. So enabled, no keyboard, disabled, keyboard works. According to the schematic for the TK-II (attached), it shows that both Pokey chips are connected at pin 30 (CS0), and CS1 are connected high to 5 volts. I checked all my soldering, no shorts, swapped the POKEY chips, and the same result. I can replace the resistor network (RN3) as this could be the wrong part. and see if it will fix anything. as I might have installed the wrong part. tk-ii-stereo_main.pdf
  6. Hi All, A little background. I have a U1M, SIDE2 combo going in an 800XL. I recently assembled a TK-II Stereo board without the PS/2 keyboard interface. I don't know if I have found a bug in FJCs firmware for SIDE2 (ver3.02), or U1M (ver3.02), or both or not at all. with the TK-II stereo board. Or if it is an issue with the TK-II board, or my 800XL. Here is what I can duplicate. With the A4 line connected to the TK-II board, the computer will boot, other times it won't. I'll just get a black screen. I have the Stereo option enabled in U1M. If I disconnect the A4 line from the board and turn it on, it'll boot constantly. When I boot it up and then connect the A4 line while it's on (probably not safe) and select a game, like Yoomp!, it'll say stereo not detected. I press reset, and it'll then detect stereo. If I power cycle the computer, SIDE2 Loader comes back up and the keyboard will not respond. Pressing Help and Reset, and go into the U1M setup, keyboard will respond, and I disable stereo mode and save, the keyboard will work again.
  7. All, I was able to get everything working. I have used several 1GB Sandisk Compact Flash cards, and they all work. I think my problems was with a bad PHI2 signal from the CPU. I swapped it with another from a working machine and it works.
  8. That's okay. I have the ProSystem and the USB version of SIO2PC.
  9. Well the PHI2 mods have been done. Things are still working. I formatted a 1GB CF card (Sandisk) as APT, and created 6 - 512 byte 65535 sectors, and I believe that it is working correctly. I have AtariMax APE software, and copied a bunch of XEX files to the root of the 1st drive. Everything copied, and I was able to run the programs and games. I'm about to format another 1GB CF card (Sandisk) and make it FAT or FAT32, and try the Side Loader setting, and see if it will load ATRs. As for settings, I believe I have the U1M set to PBI BIOS, and disabled SDX on the U1M. One final question for the SIDE loader, will it run ATX images? Thanks all.
  10. Okay, I will just try a 1GB Compact Flash, and see how my results are with APT. I have installed the U1M board, and things seem stable, I updated the firmware for it too, with a swapped CPU, which was the cause of my initial instability. I wiill still do the PHI2 stabilizing modifications. They don't seem to take that long to do. I will have to tinker after work, not enough time in the morning to do anything. Thank you for all the suggestions. I'll keep everyone updated.
  11. Hi all, After getting the 800XL working, I am now working with the SIDE 2 cartridge. I updated the firmware to the FJC July 2019. I have tried a 4GB Sandisk Compact Flash card, split it in half with FAT32 and APT. After FDISK, I go to build the directories for 6 drives C, D, E, F, G and H. These are 256 byte sectors, 65535 sectors. After creating the directories, I go check the drives, and i kept on getting an error 148?, on several of them, so i would rebuild the directory and it was good again. So after all drives had directory structures, I started creating folders for games. inside the games sub-directory i start creating more sub-directories like A_C, D_F, etc to keep them sorted. After they were created, I do a directory listing, and hardly any of the folders show, or I get a corrupt directory information. So that is where I am. I have several more 1GB Compact Flash carts I can try, but haven't yet, because I was so frustrated, so I walked away for a day. Any suggestions? Thanks again.
  12. Yeah, i'll keep the current CPU in there, as it's working. The other CPU, I'll mark it weak timing, for another use. I still have a few other 8-bits I can tinker with. Thank you all for your help.
  13. I figured it out. It was something with timing issues. I swapped out the CPU, and it became stable. I let it run overnight, and still got all green bars and blocks. I'm gonna do the PHI2 stabilizing modifications to help make it rock solid. Then to install one modification at a time, check for any voltage drag, and continue on, until I get it all working. Thanks Nezgar, for the links. They helped out tremendously.
  14. I haven't installed the Ultimate 1 Meg upgrade, I replaced the sockets for the OS, U2 and the MMU. I have tried other chips from a working 800XL, and I still get the red bar. What part of the OS is the 1st bar of the ROM test, test? Does anyone know if there are diagnostic program tools to check ROM CRCs, I did get a SIDE 2 cart and tried loading some memory test BIN files on it, and all the memory passes. I tried to add on the SALT 2.05 image, but I can't get it to start. Thanks again.
  15. I am troubleshooting an 800XL that I am trying to upgrade with a Ultimate 1 Meg board, AVS, and a dual pokey board. First things I did, since I did not know the working status of the computer, so I verified that the power supply had the correct voltage (Chelco) and started the Self Test. I get the 1st bar in the ROM area intermittently passing green, but most of the the time I get the 1st one red and the 2nd one is always green. I checked for solder joints, all the chips are socketed, and reseated them all. The 74LS138 (U2?) had very tarnished pins, so I replaced the socket (new is machined) and the chip. So, I thought it was a bad OS ROM, and swapped it with another one and still got the same results. I have also swapped the GAL chip. I checked voltages when it was on, and it seemed a little low.. 4.92V So I rebuilt the power supply with new rectifier diodes, capacitors, resistors and the big filtering capacitor. I got the voltage now to 5.26V, and see right around 5.17V on various chips. I replaced the OS socket with a machined one, but unfortunately I pulled several pin holes, so I ohmed out using schematics and made a bunch of bodge wires. I still get the intermittant ROM failure of the 1st bar. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks!
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