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Kapikui

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About Kapikui

  • Rank
    Space Invader

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Idaho, United States
  • Interests
    Classic Gaming, Outdoors, Guns
  • Currently Playing
    I take the ADHD approach. I play everything for a few minutes then move on.
  • Playing Next
    Everything Else
  1. I am interested in one of these as well. For Lynx 1 if it matters. Thank you
  2. The problem with ET isn't that it was the worst game ever, it wasn't, not by a long shot. It was indeed not very fun, and suffered from several gameplay issues that make it an exercise in frustration. I found it mildly fun, but less than many of my other games. That wasn't the problem, and wasn't why ET is blamed. The reason ET was so bad and became the posterchild for the video game crash wasn't because it was a terrible game, but because it was so overhyped, that even the best game ever couldn't have lived up to expectations, then Atari gave us a mediocre to poor game. Had another company released ET (with slightly different sprites and a different story and no movie license but identical gameplay) it wouldn't be talked about much, and certainly wouldn't be blamed for causing any crash. ET along with Pac Man (which would be considered a mediocre Pac Man ripoff were it released by a different company under a different name) told us that even Atari had started peddling shovelware. That, I think, more than anything is what killed Atari back in the day.
  3. There were a couple three times with customers hooking up VCR's and the like. As I recall it was a low end Television, and there were only HDMI ports, we tried the coax, but there was no option to go to any type of analog input, it would only take digital broadcast channels.
  4. I used to do phone tech support for DirecTV. Before I quit, I'd started running into televisions with ONLY HDMI and Digital coax. No analog inputs at all. A way to make an atari work with hdmi is going to be necessary soon.
  5. Mine was a 4 switch woodgrain. I got it Christmas (it was a family gift) 1981 ±1. I don't remember the exact year, but It was right about then. I know I'd had it quite a while by 84. We got it at ZCMI at the (fairly new at the time) Pine Ridge Mall. The mall had recently replaced a drive in theater. It came with Combat, and we got Space Invaders for it. That collection grew. I still have it, I still play it, I'm keeping it as original as possible (though I need to recap it, and make some other minor repairs). I recently acquired a second 2600, woodgrain again. I'm going to mod it out as much as I can think of, just for fun.
  6. You do realize that we're talking about the general situation of destroying someone's property because you're mad? Yes, this is fiction. We were talking about the situation within the fiction (which a large subset of our culture seems to support) of destroying something that isn't yours simply because you're angry.
  7. Not sure it matters. It's destruction of property. If the offence warrants, you go to court and get a settlement. You don't get to destroy someone's property because you're mad.
  8. Is this something for the RF output only, or does it work for the composite mods as well?
  9. I hadn't thought of those, I might have to go with red after all. Whatever though blue is out.
  10. I guess i'll need to get a replacement for the static strips. They didn't survive removal, and barely survived disassembly. I had been planning to remove the entire RF modulator. Would that be a problem?
  11. Green traditionally meant things were working OK. while red LED's generally came on if there was a problem. That goes way back to some of the first indicator lights, predating LED's by a lot. Then someone invented the insanely bright blue LED's, and everything turned blue.
  12. I recently aquired a 2600/a woodgrain. The circuit board is a rev 13. I’m thinking about doing some modding. I kind of want to make a 2600 modern retro. I have some questions and ideas. The field service manual refers to anti-static tape mounted across the switches and to the RF shielding to alleviate potential static charges through the switches to the circuits. Is this necessary? With the shielding removed to add the video composite mod, what would I ground the switches to? The first mod is a video composite mod I’m thinking of using this one http://www.vintagegamingandmore.com/product/atari-video-mod-kit/ does anyone have any experience with it? Is it acceptable, or is there another that would be better. I’m trying to make it look professional inside and out when done. So I'm going to want to mount the board nicely. It seems that some have used mounting tape, is there a better way? Next would be the pause mod. I don’t like the switches that seem to be generally provided. Would it be possible to repurpose the 2-3 switch since it will be of no use with the composite mod? That way I don’t have to mount a new switch to the case. I especially don’t want to make it difficult to take the case off. If everything were mounted to the circuit board and simply protruded from the top (as with the original design), it would be far more aesthetically pleasing, and it looks as if I could just cut the trace on the circuit board and solder the wires to the switch. Third would be a power light LED mod A simple green led could be mounted next to the power switch. Green as it would have been the period correct color had atari actually installed one. Again, it would be preferable if the LED were attached to the circuit board, and then simply protruded from the bezel next to the power switch, rather than attaching the power LED to the bezel and having to carefully open the case every time I want to mod it. Alternately, I just had an idea to put LED’s or EL wire around the switches making them glow from inside. Fourth, would it be possible to find a power supply similar in size to a laptop charger and use it as an internal power supply. It is physically possible to put an appropriate power supply inside the case. It could be placed in front of the board and the wire run to the back, and soldered in place of the current power jack. A standard removable cord jack could be attached to the back of the case making the Atari easier to deal with. Lastly, I had a thought about splitting off the composite out and running it to a simple HDMI adapter mounted inside the case, and then run to an HDMI jack on the back of the Atari. Has anyone ever tried anything like this? Thank you for your time.
  13. Can't speak to why, but I had a Zaxxon cartridge that had severe interference. I traded it away for something else at least 30 years ago, so I can't exactly test it now, but it was the only one that had the issue.
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