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mickcris

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Posts posted by mickcris


  1. Really, they couldn't even wire up a power switch and an LED? They already have the light pipes (they've been sending them out with their Jaguar cases), so all it would have taken is a bit of solder, an LED, a resistor, and some wire. At most, that's about $3.00 worth of parts and an hour of labor.

     

    (Then again, everybody on the whole team seems to be management and marketing types, so maybe none of them knew how to do it.)

    Yeah, it would have been a bit more believable if they would have taken the time to do that. Might have taken a little longer to figure out it was an SNES inside.

    • Like 1

  2. In the video and the linked pic, I am trying to see if there is a cord that actually goes from the prototype to the TV. I don't see it at first glance.

     

    If they are trying to make some high end SNES clone that also can play some Coleco and Intellivision games, there better be pretty good specs to justify a high price tag. When does the Kickstarter campaign start again? I couldn't tell from that one earlier post as the picture announcing that is cropped and tiny (at least on my compute).

    In the pic, Its the cable on the left that looks like an snes video cable. the tv is sitting on top of that clear case the console is in.


  3. it does look an awful lot like that is an snes or snes clone shoved into the jag shell. the edge connector on the cart looks exactly like an snes cart and so does the cart slot. Im thinking you could probably fit an snes mini board into a jag shell. maybe its really an everdrive in that proto cart shell. the cart shell is only the front as you can see electrical tape holding the board in place.

    • Like 1

  4. retroillucid posted the brochure that will be at the toyfair in a different thread

    http://atariage.com/forums/topic/248602-coleco-chameleon-what-you-think/?p=3437366

     

    As someone else pointed out, they spelled Colecovision wrong on the 1st page. This is my favorite quote from it though:

     

    Here’s What The Experts Are Saying...

    “The creators of the ColecoVision are back
    with a new cartridge-based console!”

     

    I also like how they went totally vintage and their email address is @aol.com.

    • Like 2

  5. If you look at the link from Console5's website, these adapter cables are made to be used with the DUO and to specifically be able to use a Genesis 1 power supply with the DUO. As I said, I've actually ran my JPN DUO using one of these cables and a Genesis ps without issue. I've also used a Genesis 1 ps on both my TG-16 and my Gore grafx 2 for literally 10+ hour stretches at a time without issues.

     

    They wired it up so it switches the polarity as well as the tip size.

     

    I was not saying that the adapter Console5 makes doesn't work as I know it does. I was just answering you polarity question.


  6. Go here... and order up one of these:

     

    http://console5.com/store/turbo-duo-power-supply-plug-adapter-cable.html

     

    That will allow you to use a more common genesis 1 power supply or SMS power supply on a DUO. I actually still use the original JPN power supply that came with my JPN DUO and without a step down transformer. Been using it for nearly 10 years like this without issue. Now the JPN PC-Engines can use a Genesis 1 or SMS power supply straight without any adapters...etc. Also worth noting that I have used for hours on end...a Genesis 1 and or SMS power supply with my US TG-16 without issues as well so if they are supposed to be center tip negative, then I don't understand because they appear to work regardless of the polarity?

    The turbografx16, white pc engine, and core grafx models are all center negative and will work with a genesis 1 power supply. The Turbo Duo/PC engine duo use a center positive supply.


  7. craigm71, on 06 Feb 2016 - 1:02 PM, said:snapback.png

    Question everyone: I have a TurboDuo (US version) and I really think I am having an issue with the plug because there is a slight amount of what I would call "peeling" of the silver part of the plug that goes into the console.

     

    In the past I would be able to adjust it so the power would come on but I think that time is pass and I am unable to get it running today.

     

    I looked on eBay and most of the power bricks were in the $70.00+ range (!)

     

    Can anyone point me to a cheaper alternative out there that works just as well?

     

    Thanks!

     

    i forgot to say you need to order the plug adapter from the 2nd link, to turn the 5.5x2.1mm into a 6.3x3.0mm jack, as well as the power supply from the 1st link. so i'm re-posting this since i cannot edit.

     

    I posted this over at pcenginefx when someone asked this recently. You just need to get a supply that's center positive, around 9v, and 5.5x2.1mm tip:

    http://www.ebay.com/...S-/371135852564

    http://www.ebay.com/...t-/131665973582

    The power supply is probably ok, but its a cheap Chinese one FYI.


  8. My Turbografx has an OEM adapter with a center negative tip, says so on the brick.9V DC [+]---(o---[-]Although I used my Radioshack "frankendapter" with multiple tips to save wear on the originals. I assumed the "Duo" could use the same adapter as a Turbografx, just like the Sega Genesis and Sega CD and 32X shared the same plugs even if it needed multiple wall warts. Otherwise it was stupid for NEC to change the adapter spec, but they also made the controller plugs incompatible too among other things.

    It's best to not assume if you don't know

     

    http://www.gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=repair:pcepowersupplies


  9. That power supply I liked to and the adapter is correct. The duo is center positive. No one ever said to use an AC adapter. You keep posting about stuff that you have no clue what you are talking about.

     

    I don't care what you do to your system concerning saves. I'm just saying that the tennokoe 2 saves would last a long time with 2 Eneloop rechargeables. You can also put a larger super cap in to make saves last longer than 2 weeks. Although I've never heard the 2 week thing or tested to see how long the stock super cap holds data.


  10. Question everyone: I have a TurboDuo (US version) and I really think I am having an issue with the plug because there is a slight amount of what I would call "peeling" of the silver part of the plug that goes into the console.

     

    In the past I would be able to adjust it so the power would come on but I think that time is pass and I am unable to get it running today.

     

    I looked on eBay and most of the power bricks were in the $70.00+ range (!)

     

    Can anyone point me to a cheaper alternative out there that works just as well?

     

    Thanks!

    I posted this over at pcenginefx when someone asked this recently. You just need to get a supply that's center positive, around 9v, and 5.5x2.1mm tip:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/2A-AC-Converter-Adapter-for-9V-1-5A-Power-Supply-Charger-DC-5-5mm-x-2-1mm-US-/371135852564

     

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-Power-Plug-Jack-Change-Adapter-3-0x6-3mm-Male-to-2-1x5-5mm-Female-lot-/131665973582

     

    The power supply is probably ok, but its a cheap Chinese one FYI.

     

     

     

    Is FRAM what Sonic 3 used? The RAMTRON chip inside and nosave battery.

     

    $20 is a bit steep. I assume they're that expensive only because they aren't manufactured anymore and new old stock is scarce.

     

    My solution to not swapping the batteries would cost like 50 cents and just two solder points. 6 months is much better than the two weeks of the Turbo Booster, and you don't have to worry about leaky batteries with NMHi. Nothing worse than scraping 20 year old crusty batteries out of a secondhand device and toothbrushing the corrosion out with vinegar and elbow grease. Only issue would be if some poor sap down the road replaced the rechargeables with alkalines. They would probably explode eventually with continued use.

     

    = = = = = = = =

     

    Once as a teen, I trickle charged a completely dead 6V lantern battery off a "fresh" 6V sealed Lead Acid battery once by wiring them in parallel. Left them outside overnight and figured if it exploded, there would be nothing to damage or clean up. Next morning I put the "recharged" non-rechargeable lantern battery in a flashlight and it worked. I can't remember if it was an alkaline or carbon but I would never trust such a cell in a device I cared about. I also used to set button cells on top of 9 volts, plus to plus and minus to minus. After 10-15 minutes, the button cell would explode like an M80! :evil:

     

    More info:

    https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Recharging_alkaline_batteries

     

    are you suggesting this for the turbobooster or tennokoe 2? With the tennokoe 2, you could just put a couple eneloops in there and it should last a very long time. With the turbobooster, you can also put a larger supercap in it to hold data longer. Would be easier than redesigning the circuit. If you are just doing it for fun though, thats cool. Not really sure why you would want a save on Nutopia to last for over 6 months. I know i would forget where i was in the game. :)


  11. Lava pipes? LOL.

    I thought it was more of a commonly used term or I would not have used it since it seems to have started a tangent. Must just be due to the industry I work in but its what pretty much everyone calls wire cutters.

     

    This is from that wikepedia page linked earlier:

    Diags or Dikes (a portmanteau of "Diagonal CutterS" is pronounced "dikes") – as in the phrase "a pair of dikes" or "hand me those dikes" – is jargon used especially in the electrical industry, to describe diagonal pliers. Dike can also be used as a verb, such as in the idiom "when in doubt, dike it out".


  12. It's very interesting... It really feels liek they took the design of the PC-Engine and just added two large slabs on the side.

     

    it does resemble the head of a hammer head shark. :) They may have possibly planned on using the same peripherals at one point during the design. Cant really think of any other reason why the back molding of the case would be the same.


  13. I did got a PC-engine with the back cover.. but it's much easier for it to go missing... plus, expansions in Japan were more common so it's less surprising.

    It's still a nice thing to get one.

     

    There are a couple of tabs, inside on the bottom, on the turbografx cover also that hold it on. they can easily break off and then it no longer stays in place. probably another reason a lot got thrown away.

     

    There are quite a few pics from different angles on this auction:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/TurboGrafx-16-Black-Console-Only-Does-Not-Read-Games-For-Parts-or-Repair-/281918350628


  14. So there I learn things ^^ Starnge that people discarded them .I guess same reason why people threw boxes away.

    I guess it shows also a lack of interest in general for the TG-16.

    In mere seconds, you can find dozens of websites offering you a view on all PC-Engine models and variants, with pictures from every side. There is nothing of that style for the TG-16.

     

    I guess just the way you phrased your questions seemed more like arguing since both Black Tiger and me (who both have lots of knowledge about this subject) told you it would fit, and you just kept saying you didn't think it would. Its probably just a language thing though since you are from France.

     

    If you want to see pictures, a good place is ebay. there are lots on there and most of them are missing the back cover. lots of people just toss them when they connect something to the back. most pc engines are missing their covers for the expansion slot also.

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