mickcris

1st party ones are the best. I have read that the replacement sticks are not very good, but never tried any myself. If you get one with a loose stick, you can fix it pretty easily. I have done this to a couple and it worked pretty well: This method looks like it works well too, and have been meaning to try it: maybe a combination of both of these methods would be best.

Mine are now on the way. Label was printed on 1/15 and tracking has now updated that they are at the post office.

from looking at some pictures, it seems like the cable maybe was originally attached and yours is broken off. See here for example: http://blog.beforemario.com/2011/05/nintendo-color-tv-game-block-kuzushi.html Which model is it? Not sure if all are the same.

SMD stands for Super Magic Drive (an old copy device). There are several programs that convert between SMD and BIN if you want to see if that is the issue: http://www.zophar.net/utilities/segautil.html

I ordered a set on Jan 13th. On the 15th, I got an email saying my order shipped. USPS status still just says "shipping label created". Hopefully they put it in the mailbox soon.

Here is the info you need: http://www.gametrog.com/GAMETROG/How_which_do_i_need_SEGA_AC_Power_Supply_Information_Specs_Model_mk-3025_mk-1602_mk-2103_mk-1479_mk-4122_aa-s95j.html The polarity of the tip and physical size are different between the model 1 and 2:

same thing happened to Collectorvision's release for the intellivision. They changed it to a Syndey Hunter game instead of smurfs.

Looks like just a normal TAC-2 joystick for the 2600. Not sure why they stuck it in the picture with the 7800. It says it has 2 fire buttons so you can use it with either hand.

I know you said you wanted a genuine power supply, but you can also use a dual supply so you would only need one for both the jag and jag cd. i use the DUO M1CD1 from retro game cave. They are sold out at the moment, but says their site says they will restock in Feb. They are a little more expensive than the OEM supplies, but it saves a plug and its probably more energy efficient. http://retrogamecave.com/#/shop/4577155957/sega-trio/5885731

The NES has a bridge rectifier directly after the AC input that converts it to DC. Since the Genesis power supply is already DC, the output is the same as it would have been if the NES AC adapter was used.

there may be a filter cap in between the where the power comes in and the voltage regulator then. Trace the power to see where it stops.

Since the NES power supply is AC it will not have that info as the polarity will cycle positive and negative. You probably blew the 7805 voltage regulator when you plugged in the wrong power supply.

open it up. it may just be dirty. possibly the rubber pads are broken and need replaced. NES/SNES replacement rubber pads are readily available, but I could not find any Genesis ones doing a search. but 1st just try to clean the rubber pads and the contacts if the don't look ripped.

Would these be the right size: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Self-Adhesive-Rubber-Feet-Round-Black-Small-Bumpers-60-/121145080118

This is the label I used on mine: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/172069-my-skunkboard-has-a-case-now/?p=2131951

I think he mentioned it in another one of his videos. Just someone hacked together a cable using a memory card for the edge connector. Seems pointless to me when you can just buy the official scart cable for $24 from best electronics.

Hes got a new video out where he bought a power supply from a company in Europe. Not too bad of a price on them if you dont know what specs to look for and dont want to make one yourself. Looks like the company buys generic chinese supplies and puts the right connectors on them. I have had some bad luck with those chinese supplies though not being the current rating they say they are on the label. Pretty funny part of him trying to turn on his console around 5:30 into the video. He really should clean the contacts on the cd drive and the console.

The site is fine. Battle Kid 1 and 2 are in stock.

Like zerosquare said above, previous owner must have used + polarity power supply: http://scpcd.free.fr/jag/jag.htm#Repair

if its a cdi-450 or 550 model, then its the same. Not sure about the other models though. http://lifein16bit.blogspot.com/2012/01/cdi-450-repair-laser-replacement.html

That was quick, got mine in the mail yesterday! I have not had a chance to play with it yet though.

The Wii is made with a different type of plastic I think and doesn't seem like its prone to yellowing. I have never seen a yellowed one. Here is a descent article expaling why they yellow: http://www.vintagecomputing.com/index.php/archives/189 Its due to the Bromine they used to make the ABS plastic fire retardant.

Disregard my link above if you are connecting directly to a tv as it may still go into 16:9 mode as stated by zerosquare.

The wire to pin 8 should stay connected. Here is an example of how it should be wired: http://members.optusnet.com.au/eviltim/gamescart/gamescart.htm#jaguar edit: I read back and zerosquare was saying to do it differently I think with just the wire currently going to pin 8 now attached to pin 16 with a resistor between the wire and pin. Which im sure is fine too. I have mine wired as above, but im connected to an xrgb-mini. The switch I am using expects voltage on pin 8 and 16 though so mine needs to be wired like in the link above.

There is some. Thats why the led stays lit up red.