mickcris

I measured out the space and outlined it for the usb. I think it was 6mm by 14mm if i remember correctly. Then drilled 2 6mm holes and then used an exacto knife and file to make it rectangular. Its not perfect, but from a distance, it doesnt look too bad. this is the cable I used: http://www.ebay.com/itm/160680899544 I had to shave down the rubber on the female end so it was flush with the metal part and remove the slotted strain relief part of the connectors, but it fit in there without having to cut/resolder the cables. Shipping was pretty slow though so you may want to get it from another seller if you want that cable.

delete. double post.

I use a PS2 slim power supply I use on my Duo-R and it works fine. The Genesis model 2 supply should work.

My USB cables finally got here from China so I finished the case mod: idea blatenly stolen from here: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/172069-my-skunkboard-has-a-case-now/ Thanks to willyvmm for the skunk, Guitarman for posting the cart label, busterm for the idea about adding the usb port, and pboland for the great label print!

I measured my Duo from retrogamecave just now out of curiosity. It read -9.38v with one plug still in the Jag and the other pulled out of the cd (the console power switch was not on). The supply has a label on it that states its 10v 3a.

xrgb mini is the part with the hdmi out. The dreamcast vga/scart box plugs into it. http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php/XRGB-mini_FRAMEMEISTER you just need a sync combiner (which is what the Kenzei is) before the xrgb

Hanzo/Kenzei (new model Toro is both combined into 1) into xrgb-mini. http://www.beharbros.com/ This setup is not cheap but works well.

Yes, see the link I posted above. I am using a Duo M1CD1 (Duo M1 would work too) on mine, but it looks like they are sold out of the Duo. The Trio M1 would work, but you would just have an extra plug.

Yeah, you can do that too. I just prefer to have less wall warts if I can. I was just saying that in no way is the power supply proprietary. its the same as the Genesis 1, PC Engine, AV Famicom, etc... And he was talking about wanting a dual power supply and you can use one of these made for the genesis + sega cd: http://retrogamecave.com/#/shop/4577155957/sega-trio/5885731

I have watched quite a few of his videos and there are lots of them that are the same way. He often says things that aren't correct. But I guess its for entertainment so it doesn't really matter. He also said in this one that the Jaguar uses a proprietary power plug which isn't true. I am using a sega retro duo from retrogamecave.com on mine to only have 1 power adapter.

They just listed some more of the deluxe i/o boards: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATARI-Jaguar-Multi-IO-Board-Deluxe-Model-/171482880134

Could it be that the consoles or carts are NTSC and not PAL? I assume you are in the UK as you mention getting a crt at a carboot.

This looks great! Would defiantly purchase 1 if you make them.

Paypal does the conversion for you. You pick Euro, from a drop down menu of a bunch of different currencies, on the screen where you input the email address and amount sending.

I have a NESRGB toploader. I use it with an xrgb mini. The cheaper scart to hdmi convertors work ok, but they are not nearly the same quality. Here is a page that has some reviews of some alternatives: http://retrogaming.hazard-city.de/ or get a PVM or some other sort of CRT monitor that can RGB input.

MNEMO's contact info can be found at the bottom of this page: http://3do-renovation.ru/USB_Host_for_FZ10.htm You can try to order one directly from him. I think hes making people pay with Western Union recently though. You would have to install yourself or find someone to do it. I got one from him a few months ago and the only hard part is removing the ic.

Gave up on the repair and got a new supply from iscout62 and it works great. I think my other supply must be dying also as my console would lock up when I hit the reset on my Atarimax flash cart. The reset button now functions like its supposed to.

If you have an SNES controller handy, the tall one looks like it may be the same size as one of the shoulder button rubber pads.

Don't see why that would be any different. Japanese TVs are NTSC like the ones in the US, and the electricity is 100VAC while ours is 120VAC (close enough). The only issue you may have is if you are using RF. The frequencies for their channels that they would tune to are in the 90s (channels 95 and 95 I think) on US tvs. Any Japanese console should work in the US without issue. With the pc engine though, since it uses an external power supply, you can always get a 120V supply for it if you are worried. I am using one from a slim PS2 on my Duo-R as it did not come with a power supply. The one that it originally came with would have been fine though. They used quite a bit of different plug tip sizes and output voltages on all the variants though so you'd have to make sure you get the right one.

Id be interested in an SFC NTT Data pcb.

I decided to replace the caps. Just installed them and it still will not power on the console. Still reading all the correct voltages with it just plugged into the wall. I did not measure it under load. I assume now that one one the voltage regulators is not supplying enough voltage under load. I may check on those or just trash the thing. I should have ordered those while i was ordering the caps just in case. gonna be another 5 bucks in shipping now.

The Dreamcast has an Atari 2600 emulator while the Atari 2600 does not have a Dreamcast emulator: http://dcemulation.org/?title=Emulators They are both cheap enough that you could probably pick up both. Im sure you can find a 2600 at a thrift shop for next to nothing.

capacitance setting on my multimeter.

I made sure to select ones that are at least 5000 hours when i was searching. going to cost $11 for the caps from mouser with shipping. just debating on whether its worth it or not to try and fix it. edit: after I pulled them all out i measured them. Only the 3 largest ones were bad (4700uf and the 2 1000uf). The 3 small 22uf and the 220uf were ok, but im going to replace them anyway if I replace the others.

the ones that were in there were 105deg already. checking for replacements now. thanks.