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mickcris

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Posts posted by mickcris

  1. Posted · Edited by mickcris

     

    What did you use to cut the hole on top? I want to do the same thing with a nice clean cut.

     

    I measured out the space and outlined it for the usb. I think it was 6mm by 14mm if i remember correctly. Then drilled 2 6mm holes and then used an exacto knife and file to make it rectangular. Its not perfect, but from a distance, it doesnt look too bad.

     

    this is the cable I used:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/160680899544

    I had to shave down the rubber on the female end so it was flush with the metal part and remove the slotted strain relief part of the connectors, but it fit in there without having to cut/resolder the cables. Shipping was pretty slow though so you may want to get it from another seller if you want that cable.

  5. Posted

    I measured my Duo from retrogamecave just now out of curiosity. It read -9.38v with one plug still in the Jag and the other pulled out of the cd (the console power switch was not on). The supply has a label on it that states its 10v 3a.

  8. Posted

    Cool video. Always fun to see someone interested in the Jag and its history. Only 10,000 Jag CD's produced!! Now mines doubly rare :) :)

     

    Edit: Speaking of which, "wolfpackmommy" recently made me a 3 in 1 power supply for my Genesis 1, Sega CD 1, and 32x, but said they were "no longer making" Jag Duo power supplies. If it's the case that the Jag takes the same power supply as a Sega Model 1, couldn't I just order a dual Genesis/CD (model 1's) power supply to power my Jag from one plug? I would much rather do this over two bricks...

     

    Yes, see the link I posted above. I am using a Duo M1CD1 (Duo M1 would work too) on mine, but it looks like they are sold out of the Duo. The Trio M1 would work, but you would just have an extra plug.

  10. Posted

    Somethings in this video are missing/incorrect

     

    First of all there is a pro-controller in the video only the normal controller is mentioned and even told us that there was no other type of controller

    Secondly they tell that there where not original RGB or SVIDEO cables release by Atari but they where officially made

     

    They don't mention the teamcap to allow 4 joypads connected to 1 joyport.

     

    They also don't mention the networking capability's althought they are buggy but it did exist.

     

    This would not be all I think..

     

    I have watched quite a few of his videos and there are lots of them that are the same way. He often says things that aren't correct. But I guess its for entertainment so it doesn't really matter.

     

    He also said in this one that the Jaguar uses a proprietary power plug which isn't true. I am using a sega retro duo from retrogamecave.com on mine to only have 1 power adapter.

  14. Posted

    At a training for work today. Will pay when I get home. Thanks!!

     

    PS. Will PayPal let USA people pay in euros, or do we have to look up the conversion?

     

    Paypal does the conversion for you. You pick Euro, from a drop down menu of a bunch of different currencies, on the screen where you input the email address and amount sending.

  17. Posted

    Gave up on the repair and got a new supply from iscout62 and it works great. I think my other supply must be dying also as my console would lock up when I hit the reset on my Atarimax flash cart. The reset button now functions like its supposed to.

     

     

    N7HLCYC.jpg

    krhg4Oe.jpg

    • Like 1

  19. Posted

    Don't see why that would be any different. Japanese TVs are NTSC like the ones in the US, and the electricity is 100VAC while ours is 120VAC (close enough). The only issue you may have is if you are using RF. The frequencies for their channels that they would tune to are in the 90s (channels 95 and 95 I think) on US tvs. Any Japanese console should work in the US without issue.

     

    With the pc engine though, since it uses an external power supply, you can always get a 120V supply for it if you are worried. I am using one from a slim PS2 on my Duo-R as it did not come with a power supply. The one that it originally came with would have been fine though. They used quite a bit of different plug tip sizes and output voltages on all the variants though so you'd have to make sure you get the right one.

  21. Posted · Edited by mickcris

    I decided to replace the caps. Just installed them and it still will not power on the console. Still reading all the correct voltages with it just plugged into the wall. I did not measure it under load. I assume now that one one the voltage regulators is not supplying enough voltage under load. I may check on those or just trash the thing. I should have ordered those while i was ordering the caps just in case. gonna be another 5 bucks in shipping now.

  24. Posted · Edited by mickcris

    I made sure to select ones that are at least 5000 hours when i was searching. going to cost $11 for the caps from mouser with shipping. just debating on whether its worth it or not to try and fix it.

     

    edit:

    after I pulled them all out i measured them. Only the 3 largest ones were bad (4700uf and the 2 1000uf). The 3 small 22uf and the 220uf were ok, but im going to replace them anyway if I replace the others.

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