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spencerhm

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Posts posted by spencerhm


  1. Problem Solved. Ultimately I tried everything that was suggested prior to posting except one thing - SCSI. Prior to installing SCSI I removed the real mode drivers, removed the sound card (it does have an IDE interface), tried FROG, tried finding drivers for my specific CD-RWs (triead at least five of mine), removed a PnP Linksys card, and all others because as we all know PnP wasn't all that great in those hardware/software days, tried setting the jumpers for MA and CS, I could go on. Nothing worked and "CDROM" did not show up at any time in Device Manager. And the bios did show CD-ROM Identified on boot.

     

    Solution: broke out an old Yamaha SCSI (don't know the model off hand) CD-RW I had with all the software and manuals that came with it except the orig. box. The manual suggested a Adaptec AHA-2940 series controller. I bought two NOS (unopened) for $18 a piece (on eBay in the last few days) and bought them both. When I installed it and set the jumpers for the ID and termination on the drive, installed the necessary drivers for the card and installed Yamaha's burning software it all worked: write CDs, shows up in Device Mgr.

     

    One peculiar thing is the software will not let me burn to CD-RW disks; it burns only to CD-Rs and the software makes them rewritable; however, only on the Yamaha drive. I have to do an "Eject" within the software to remove the CD. I've only got this all going since last night, so haven't had much time to play with it yet.

     

    Thanks very much for all the positive and helpful feedback. I knew I could get some good collaboration from AtariAge.


  2. How does it list in windows device manager? I think the dos driver should be removed and it needs to be properly configured in device manager. Does the burner software recognise the drive, any error messages?

     

    That's the thing - I don't see it listed in device manager and I was wondering about the real mode drivers I am loading. My drives (CD-RWs and DVDs) are not PnP. In Device Mgr. all I see is Creative's CD interface (from a PnP Creative Sound Blaster) but it's got the yellow exclamation mark. My assumption is because I do not have a drive plugged into this cards IDE interface. I tried pugging the drives into this interface but doesn't work. All the software doesn't work. I tried installing several different interfaces within 98 using the 98Se add new hardware and can't seem to get it to work within 98. Without the real mode drivers I don't even see it in File Explorer. I've ordered a scsi PnP card and a scsi drive AND a Creative CD-RW. That's all the money I intend to spend! I'll toy with it until I see insanity then I'll STOP. ;-)

    Thanks!


  3. Sure no problem. I'm not that much younger than you .. only a decade. Anyway I really enjoy VMs. I can run all my old Intel OSes in a window for fun... Microsoft OS/2 1.0 , IBM OS/2 2.1, IBM OS/2 Warp 4.52 with Lemmings!, QNX (1.44M image with GUI and browser!), AIX 1.3 (for PS/2 Intel), Windows 1.0, BeOS 5, Red Hat Desktop Beta 0.9, Knoppix 0.1 ... ah well Windows 1.0 I have to just laugh at.

     

    That's interesting. I've got an orig IBM (I think Mod 57 48x guy) with the original OS/2 2.1 installed. Still have the orig box. About a year or so ago I played with getting an external 5 1/4" diskette drive installed but never got it to work. That's another I'll have to get to. I'll leave that for another thread. ;-) I toyed with putting Warp on it but want to keep it original. I have NO idea how to clone or image it.

     

    My 98 box I may buy a scsi controller and drive on ebay. I found a few not too bad. But yeah I don't want to keep shooting myself in the foot. ;-) All us computer nuts sometimes can't resist buying more stuff to try and GET IT TO WORK! ;-)


  4. I should say that I only burn using Ghost. I have no need to use Nero with my retro box, so I can't offer any help on that front. But Ghost will use the Windows front end and then launch into its own DOS-based imaging program.

     

    The SS7 and 440BX boxes are pretty fast -- ~500MHz K6-3+ and Pentium 3 CPUs. Not sure if burning a DVD-R needs something that fast, but it might.

     

    That's interesting about Ghost dropping into its own DOS environment. I use Acronis and have for probably 20 years; it drops into its own Linux shell even in my Win98 version.


  5. I use DVD-RW drives in my 98SE builds with no problems. One is in a Super Socket 7 box, and the other is in a 440BX box. They are the only period incorrect components because I need them for Norton Ghost 2003. I use Ghost to burn images of the HDD to DVD-R. I can have different images for different video/sound card combos.

     

    I've got plenty DVD drives around; I'll try it for grins and get back.


  6. I should say that I only burn using Ghost. I have no need to use Nero with my retro box, so I can't offer any help on that front. But Ghost will use the Windows front end and then launch into its own DOS-based imaging program.

     

    The SS7 and 440BX boxes are pretty fast -- ~500MHz K6-3+ and Pentium 3 CPUs. Not sure if burning a DVD-R needs something that fast, but it might.

    My box is an old Pentium Pro; I believe it was the first Pentium that use internal cache to its CPU. It's 200Mhz, and when I got it setup I was blown away back in the mid-to-late 90s. Eh right now I'm trying to unwind from the work world, so building a new box may be out about 6 mos or so. I will look into the mobo boards though. I'll bet they're not cheap. Nothing vintage is cheap anymore.

     

    Thanks a million!


  7. I use DVD-RW drives in my 98SE builds with no problems. One is in a Super Socket 7 box, and the other is in a 440BX box. They are the only period incorrect components because I need them for Norton Ghost 2003. I use Ghost to burn images of the HDD to DVD-R. I can have different images for different video/sound card combos.

    Hmm!!! I never thought beyond "no way will a DVD work" of trying one. Hmm that's interesting you got a DVD to work in 98SE. Are the drives atapi IDE or scsi? I've got an older version of Ghost. What version do you use?

     

    Thanks!

     

    P.S. I'm retired now and sick of Informix, databases on web servers, user support issues, and the work world. Just wanted to get back to my old roots (DOS and Windows games). Actually it all started for me with CP/M, but have no desire for that; there's no graphics, games of real value nor fun(to me). Just a tid bit - sorry.

    • Like 1

  8.  

    You are probably just shooting yourself in the foot. If you really want a CR-RW with Windows 9X you'll need to find the right driver as it appears you have it configured as CD-ROM not a CD-R nor CR-RW. It is almost impossible to know which device driver is needed or if it even exists unless you have driver working on the same hardware. If you can get working on a modern OS that may give you a clue, but again certainly no guarantee the same brand existed with Windows 9X or would even work.

     

    CR-RW was pretty new at the time and there were no "standards" yet, just like very early USB devices that needed a special usb device driver .. long before the USB Mass Storage driver became the standard for all USB storage. I still have an ancient USB drive from about '95 and it to this day requires a special device driver as it does not use USB mass storage. I'm actually quite shocked MS has a modern driver built in Windows 7 for it. Note that driver does not work in Windows 10 and Windows 10 does not have a driver for it like Windows 7.

     

    Anyway you could get very lucky and a default Windows 9X might work , but I surely would bet against it.

     

    Seriously Windows 9X is an extremely poor choice for many reasons these days. Old games from that time run better on plain DOS than Windows 9X. Yes there's a short period of time where Windows 9X may be needed on bare metal for certain games. Regardless you can run Windows 9X in a VM and your CR-RW will very likely work fine. I know my CR-RW from my decade old laptop worked fine with Linux host OS and accessing in a Windows 95 VM.

    Yeah I was thinking Win9x could be the culprit. I remember when I built this system back in the late 90s I never could get a cd-rw to right. I remember also it took me awhile to pay for the cd-rw on credit too!!!! Remember how expensive they were?!?! I'll still play around with it to see if I can get lucky with some good programmers that may have created a driver. One user suggested Frog ASPI; I downloaded it, unzip the rar file, now I'll try it for grins. Otherwise like I mentioned I'll just play my Win9x games on the box. Honestly I never tried an 9x VM; guess I'm too old (59) to teach an old dog new habits. ;-)

     

    Thank you for your time!


  9. Well all those spaces are still there. What OS and browser did you use to post ?

    Just do an edit from a common updated modern PC browser (Chrome, Firefox or Safari) and you will likely see it and be able to delete all he spaces.

    Hmm on my Win7 box after seeing your reply I do not see the spaces, but on my Win10 box I see them. I'm on Win7 right now, but I'll get on my Win10 box real soon and do an edit for the spaces and see what happens. Ah ha I sort of was thinking Win10! ;-)


  10. I don't know the vintage of the Cendyne CD hardware, but if you're trying to run a newish device that didn't exist when Win98 was a thing, there probably aren't hardware drivers for all of its functions. Agreed that the original installation media or the generic ASPI software are a step in the right direction ...but sounds like you'd be better off with a difference device and putting this one into a newer machine.

     

    Now that I think of it, the only optical media I've handled on my computer lately has been imagery from MRI scans and XRays. Sigh.

     

    Yeah I think I'll give the ASPI a try. I don't have anything to lose. I've got a clone of the drive, so just in case I get a virus or crash it with some bad DLL I can always go back and use my clone. Since experimenting with this I thought it would be a good idea to make a bootable Win98 diskette in case I have to go back to an old DLL file.

     

    Thanks for your response.

     

    And sorry for all the space. I honestly do not know what happen! I did preview before the post.


  11. There used to be a "Frog ASPI" driver that helped with CD burning on 95 machines. But, the honest answer is you need the exact CD that came with the drive for your best chance of success. Actually, breaking down and buying a SCSI card and SCSI CD burner might be the way to go.

     

    Yeah I've been looking at scsi cards and drives on ebay. Wow they're pricey, but I did find a few not too bad. I don't mind shelling out say $100 but more than that - neh. I'll just enjoy the box with my old Dragon's Lair game.

     

    Thanks for the reply! I'll search for the Frog ASPI driver.


  12. WHY all the space after your post? Come on now.

     

    "Come on now" hmm I apologize; however I do not have a clue why all the "space after your post." I previewed the post prior to posting and didn't see it.


  13. Hello all.

    I searched for this in Hardware and didn't see anything when searching on Windows 98Se. Hope I'm not repeating.

     

    I resurrected my Win98Se box and cannot figure out why I can't get my Cendyne CD-RW drive to write to CD-R or CD-RW discs. I tried Nero, ImgBurn, and Magic Creator 5+ and nothing works. It's a brand new Cendyne CD-RW I opened from my stock. On PC boot my bios shows => CD-ROM Identified after doing an "Auto" when setting it up in the bios. Currently it's hooked up to my mobo 2ndary IDE interface as master, and it's the only device on it. I did try the IDE interface on my Sound Blaster (PnP) card too. Neither interface will allow the software to see the drive when starting the software. I can boot a DOS CD fine, it can read CD-RW and CD-R discs fine, and it can read other program CDs fine. However, if I didn't load the DOS real mode drivers (sbide.sys and mscdex) in the config.sys and autoexec.bat files then Win98Se would never show a CD drive in File Explorer. I tried a few other CD drives but nothing will allow me to write to them.

     

    Any ideas?

     

    I looked all over the Internet for the Creative Labs MK4214 CD-RW Blaster 8432 but nowhere did it show up. Thinking if I find this drive and hook it up to the Sound Blaster card's interface it would work.

     

    Thanks!


  14. Well I haven't been able to find any NOS pots for this game system, and haven't been able to find a suitable substitute for the pot. Yeah I found other 500K pots similar to it but not with the 1" D shaft. I found some that were about a half inch - knew it probably wouldn't work, but they were vintage, so I bought them anyway.

     

    I actually removed it from the system board thinking it would be easy to find them since I found some pots for the older Valley VI games I have. So I decided to take Stargunner's suggestion and clean it. I used a cleaner/lubricate and yeah it certainly loosened it up and the resistance did show 500K, SO I re-soldered it to the board. It works much better than before but NOT like a new one would. At least now it's controllable, whereas before it was impossible to hit the volley ball with the paddle.

     

    I'd still love to find some NOS if anyone has a spare or two. I'd of course pay s/h.

     

    Thanks, Spencer.


  15. Hello.

     

    Ok my system hung while typing 20 mins into it, so I'll try it again. drama drama . . .

     

    I am looking for a potentiometer because of a glitchy right controller on this 40 + year old pong game. This must be one that's hard to find or maybe an alternative wasn't ever made. Certainly haven't come across an oem. I'd love an oem one because it has to be the same size to fit on the system board; not an experienced engineer to modify a board. Modifying a detachable controller is easy. I haven't had any luck finding this POT. The numbers on it are 220337-3 / 235640. Anyone have any of these or know where how to find them?

     

    I've attached some pics.

     

    Regards, Spencer.

     

     

     

     

    post-39677-0-59711600-1532405558_thumb.jpg

    post-39677-0-38785400-1532405578_thumb.jpg

    post-39677-0-43537600-1532405594_thumb.jpg


  16. Is there a test cartridge for these guys? mr_me do you know if the rf modulator is a typical suspect?

     

    I just don't want to put a lot of money into this guy in a hit-&-miss process.

     

    I checked the unit out fairly well. Found some specs on output power for the transformer and power supply and those units are ok. Which is good, so it's something on the logic board I'm guessing. Anyone know of somebody hording parts anywhere? Ultimately a test cartridge would be great.

     

    Thanks


  17. Greetings all.

     

    I found one of these gaming (cartridges) at Goodwill. It was $1.52, so I bought it. It looked to be in good shape, but when I hooked it up the video (screen) flickers white bars, disappears, and constantly does this. I took it apart and cleaned it well. It actually wasn't too dirty, but it is a 1979 unit. My thoughts are the video chip. Can anyone offer any ideas on what the problem is and perhaps where to get parts? Any ideas what to replace or what could be the problem?

     

    Thanks!


  18. You could snip the legs off U1 and then desolder each leg. Even a small 15-20W pencil stick from RadioShack would do fine with some wick or suction bulb wo cutting. And remember to socket it, not just resolder a new chip.

     

    My first thought, "that's awesome." My experience is not soldering at this level, but I'm not afraid. ;-) I never would've thought about socketing after chip removal, AND I would've never thought about snipping the legs and the desolder. That's experience!!!! Whenever I desoldered I didn't think about snipping the legs first - duh. I'll check Best Electronics for the chips.

     

    Thank you!


  19. The 8402 is Atari's made to order RIOT, model # CO10750. It should be OK to interchange with the 6532.

     

    If possible I'd also check the back of the logic board, make sure there's not lots of dust or anything bridging pins.

     

    Also, I assume you did a head clean on this drive?

     

    Eh don't know what I have left to try with this logic board. No dust bridging pins - that was a good tip.

     

    Thanks Rybags!


  20. I believe that you can get any of the 1050 chips at Best Electronic

    [email protected]

    This doesn't sound like a power problem to me, but it wouldn't hurt to look at all the electrolytic capacitors in the back half of the drive to make sure none are swollen or leaking.

     

    David

     

     

     

    I'll take a look at Best Electronics - thanks for the link. My only fear is desoldering. I've only done it on board I didn't care about, AND I always seem to scratch the traces/lines. If I had several logic boards to learn from I could go for it. I guess at this point if a chip is hard soldered I can try because with the board not working what do I have to lose. ;-)

     

    I'll check out your link - thanks!!!!

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