SkydivinGirl

Is like to be on the waiting list please! Thank you, Heather Kent

Hi Stephen! Thank you so much for the additional troubleshooting tips. I had replaced the power connector with the new one from the Console5 kit. I did test it anyways and it was fine. I had tested continuity throughout the power circuit, including the points you mentioned. Power never came back, even when putting pressure on Pin 7 of U6 but, you are right, I could have re-flowed the chip just to verify that wasn't the issue. I have a large microscope and didn't see any issued visually, but re-flowing it would have been better. I did receive the replacement U6 and installed it and the system is working perfectly. Thanks again for everyone's help. :) Heather

Thank you SO much for taking the time to reply to my question. It really is appreciated. I wanted to try applying 5V but wasn't sure about the best connection point. Looking at the schematic and your suggestion makes sense to me. I hooked up to those locations and the system lit right up! Everything seems to be working perfectly. I had already ordered a replacement U6 before you replied so I'll wait for that to come in and swap it out. I'll share a few pictures here once I'm done. Thank you! Heather

Hey everyone! I recapped a non-functional Lynx 2, which had some minor leakage and corrosion around some caps, and I replaced the power components with Console5's rebuild/refresh kit. I'm still not getting power. I read through as many posts here as I could on the subject but wasn't able to make any progress. Here's what I've done. - Verified the start button functionality. - Jumpered the cart port so it thinks there's a cart in the slot. - Measured voltages. I have 9V coming from the battery terminals (hooked up to a bench power supply). I don't have a power cord so connecting to the battery terminals was the easiest solution. -- Testing from TP16 to PIN 14 on U6 shows the 9V from the battery supply. I am unable to get readings from the other pins on U6. For example, PIN 1 is 0V. -- Testing the 5V rail returns 0V. From my limited knowledge, I'm thinking U6 may be bad. I'd really appreciate any information anyone may have that could help. Thank you, Heather

SOLD OUT! Thank you to everyone who helped make this project a success. I worked with e5frog on this project because I wanted to be sure that the Final Expansion 3 lived on. I won't be selling the FE3 anymore but I still want this project to be available to people who want it so I'll be releasing all the project files to my Github page so people will be able to build their own devices or make them available for sale. https://github.com/SkydivinGirl Remember that I'm always available to answer questions on the FE3 whether you purchased from me or not. I just want to see this wonderful device that was originally designed by Diddl to continue to be used. Thanks! Heather

Cases are all gone. Only two units remaining. Thank you, Heather

I'm dropping the price of my remaining fully assembled Final Expansion 3 cartridges to $90 + Shipping + PayPal fees. I only have one white case left, which is an additional $30. USA Priority Mail shipping is $8.30 Shipping to all other countries, except Canada, is as follows. Contact me for a shipping quote to Canada. $38.60 - Priority Mail International with Full Insurance - The price is the same with or without a 3D printed case $24.50 - First Class Mail International (FE3 + 3D Printed Case) $14.50 - First Class Mail International (FE3 without a case) Happy New Year! Heather

Hi Eligio! Welcome to AtariAge! I didn't get your PM notice but I did get one about this thread. I'll reply to your PM now. Thank you, Heather

I met with zetastrike yesterday to pick up a few consoles. He was very pleasant and helpful and I really appreciate him taking the time to meet me. The consoles were exactly as described. :) Thank you! Heather

Hi Scotty! Thanks so much for the nice words. I'm so glad you are enjoying your Final Expansion III. Heather

Thanks for sharing the video! It looks amazing. :) Heather

I don't have a web store but I do have both kits and fully assembled devices ready to ship. Just drop me a PM here and I'll send you my email address and get you a total cost with shipping. Heather

They aren't bad inside the messages. Just when looking at the lists of threads. Heather

Boxes boxes everywhere. Why is everything surrounded by boxes? It makes for less content on a page and more scrolling. Other than that, looks pretty good. Heather

I love my Commodore Colt (PC10-III). It's a really nice 8088 system. I just wish it had one or two more slots. Heather

I verified that the connector is a single, solid piece so it looks like I'll be making an adapter PCB. I just need to be sure I can source pin headers and a socket with the correct pin spacing first. Thanks everyone. Heather

Thanks for the picture! Maybe I missed something because it looks solid on mine. I'll double check this evening. I'll feel quite silly if it's as simple as what I'm seeing in your picture. Thanks! Heather

In this case, it is not a raiser connector. I removed the metal shielding of the original connector to verify that it's one solid piece of plastic with the cartridge pins being soldered directly to the motherboard. It's not a two-piece design. Unless I find a feasible replacement, I'll design a riser PCB with a connector where I can plug in one of these replacement connectors. Heather

It's difficult to believe I'm the first person to want to replace this exact connector. Other than parting out a broken unit, what do people do if they have bent/broken pins or the connector cannot be cleaned? There are plenty of the connectors with the smaller row distance. I suppose I'll have to make an adapter PCB if it's my only option. Heather

Thanks for sharing the 3D printer files. I'll print out a case this weekend. Heather

That's a last resort. I would rather have a new one installed.

Hey everyone, I've spent hours looking for a new cartridge slot to replace the one soldered into my SNES. I purchased a replacement on eBay but the rows are about 4.5mm apart and the rows in the original are about 6mm apart. I've already de-soldered the original connector so any help on sourcing a new one would be greatly appreciated! Here's a picture of the original connector (top) and the eBay replacement. As you can see, the rows on the replacement are closer together than those on the original. Thanks! Heather

Very nice! I'll have to see if I can find a case on Thingiverse for my Kryoflux. Heather

Received mine! Thank you so much. You did an excellent job on this. Heather

Glad you got it going! I just started installing one of these in my VCS today. I should be able to test tomorrow after work and hopefully have everything put back together soon after. Heather