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About TheGrandPubaa

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  • Birthday 08/22/1985

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  • Location
    Hot Springs, AR
  • Interests
    Video Games, Retrogaming, computers, all that geeky stuff.
  1. This is more of a feeler listing as I would like to find out if it's possible to get a G5 1.6GHZ compatible AGP video card with at least 128MB VRAM(256 preferred, but dependent on cost) for a more reasonable amount of money than the +$100 listings i've seen on eBay. All things being equal, I would rather not dump a log of money into a machine that has somewhat of a checkered history as far as it's reliability is concerned. I don't have any hardware that I could use to flash an AGP video card myself, so I can't just buy a PC ROM card and flash it. As long as it works with my system and preferably has a VGA port in addition to DVI, I wouldn't mind a flashed GPU if it meant it was a bit cheaper. I was hoping to stay under $30 shipped if at all possible. Thanks for reading.
  2. Just had a positive transaction that consisted of good communication, fast shipping, and well-packed goods. I'd be happy to be a repeat buyer in the future.
  3. I picked up a Sony Clie for 8 dollars and discovered it uses Memory Stick Pro cards(the long ones, not the Pro Duo that were used in the PSP - although technically I guess those could possibly be used with the adapter...). I thought I would check and see if anybody had a super cheap one they were willing to part with. Preferably 1GB or more, though I would probably settle for a 512 as well. I don't want to spend much at all since this is a PEG-TJ27 which was low end even back in 2004. However, it looks like it runs Palm OS 5 something or other so I thought it might be a fun diversion to run some Palm OS games on it on the cheap. I'm not even sure if the battery holds a charge. Anyway, thanks for reading.
  4. Hey guys, just putting out a feeler here to see if anybody has a Mac Mini G4(tested, confirmed working) or similarly specced PPC Mac that can run OS 9(hacked installer or otherwise, but not classic mode in OS X) they are willing to part with. The Mac Mini 1.25GHZ/power supply I just got off eBay and that I am in the process of returning due to it not working properly ran me about $50 shipped, so I was hoping for something in that neighborhood. I was really hoping for ~1GHZ or more clockspeed if something other than a Mini, but again, this is intended to be an OS 9 rig and I don't have a ton of wiggle room on the price including shipping so no 2.0GHZ upgraded G4s, sadly. Just as an aside, I wish Apple had made something with the performance of a Mac Mini that had the form factor of an iMac G4(and that could run OS 9, yadda yadda). What a beautiful machine.
  5. Just got the Mini in today. It chimes, shows the Apple logo, and then shuts itself down whereupon I can't turn it back on until I unplug the cord that goes from the power brick to the wall for several seconds. Is this a common thing that is easily fixed or have I just purchased a dud machine? I just tried the PRAM reset (cmd+opt+P+R) and it seemed to linger on the apple logo screen a bit longer but still shut itself down. *edit: It took a few tries of resetting the PMU, but I was able to log into the install of Tiger that came on the hard drive. It's been running for a couple of minutes, but I would really like to figure out if that was an isolated incident and whether this machine is going to operate reliably or not. I guess I should find a temperature monitor for 10.4 and see how hot it's running. *edit 2: Was idling okay, but when I popped in a DVD movie to play, it didn't even make it to the main menu screen before the system shut itself down. I wonder if the system is overheating possibly? Maybe the fan is malfunctioning? Should I be able to feel wind blowing out from the rear vents(I can't really tell)?
  6. That's certainly how it seems and doesn't surprise me in the least. My primary intent is to use the mini to run the hacked OS 9 installer and use it as an OS 9 machine primarily, but I may dual boot some variant of OS X and/or Linux/MorphOS to mess with from time to time so if it's really as simple as removing the four resistors, I may well give it a shot.
  7. I bought a Mac Mini G4 1.25GHZ on eBay, it's in the mail as I type this so I don't have it to hand at the moment, and in the photograph, the top of the case is yellowed like the yellowing you see on beige box computers from back in the 80s and SNES consoles from the 90s, etc. I'm wondering whether or not this is the same process, and if it is, would retrobrite treatment work to restore the white color; can retrobrite even be done on the white part of the top of the Mac Mini case without messing up the rest of the case? Secondly, how difficult is it to overclock the Mini G4 and how stable is it at the various clock speeds(1.5GHZ being the obvious choice)? If I proceed with doing the OC, is there anything I should be concerned about? I've done soldering on an Xbox 360(glitch chip, JTAG) so the size of the resistors and the simplicity of the soldering doesn't really intimidate me, but obviously I don't want to break something if it's extremely sensitive.
  8. At the moment, the JTAG hack appears to have been successful as I currently have Aurora Dash running. The temps displayed in the guide menu/mini blades are: CPU 37.8c, GPU 39.5c, Memory 1.0c(I assume I messed this particular sensor up somehow by adding little heatsinks to the RAM chips), and Chassis 29.1c. These temps are even better than my Jasper. It was a lot of work installing the two copper heatsinks, rigging up my crappy fan shroud, and soldering the 12v fan mod wire, but the results certainly speak for themselves. Thanks for all the advice, folks.
  9. Right, it was running the - I guess - first NXE update, which I initially assumed meant it was way past the JTAG hack, but I was wrong. CB number is low enough as well, 5761. My parts from Digikey should be coming in today so hopefully it won't give me any issues. I'm not sure why I couldn't get the RGH hack to successfully glitch as I checked my soldering numerous times, but whatever. I'll take the JTAG hack if I can make it work.
  10. Minor update: I haven't had any success with my RGH attempts so far, having tried 1.0, 1.2, and 2.0. This is odd, but I suspect it may have to do with how old the firmware is. The dash is, in fact, so old that the system is still able to use the JTAG hack that predates RGH. With that in mind, I ordered some resistors and diodes and I plan to try that method since it would have the benefit of being simpler and booting instantly without having to glitch.
  11. Just a quick update. I removed the logic board and reflowed the solder on two of the ram slots with my iron(368 pins, good grief), and after going back and cleaning up any shorts, I tried booting the Power Mac to no change in behavior. I even went so far as to get a cheap hair dryer and attempt the heat workaround i've seen others have some success with(the logic is that you heat up the area around the ram slots to temporarily re-establish enough of a connection on the memory controller chips to allow the system to boot at least past the memory check), but that seems to have had no effect. I tried various combinations of the old RAM that came with the system and the two used working chips I bought, but still nothing. Nary a sausage. So that sucks, but I guess it isn't unexpected. Chasing down the cap replacement rabbit hole seems to be more trouble than it's worth(despite my having reflowed the RAM slots, but at least that didn't cost me anything but time). Reflowing in an oven seems fraught with peril, as would be trying to reflow with a heatgun(which I don't actually own).
  12. Short version: -power connector on mobo indicates Falcon -my power supply borrowed from a legit Jasper is a Falcon-compatible higher wattage power supply -12v fan mod, to possibly be removed once I have RGH'd the system and up the fan speed in software -thermal grease is Thermaltake TG-7(some brand that Best Buy sells; I can't speak to it's efficacy compared to more mainstream thermal compounds except that it has helped lower the temps on my -original Jasper and seems to be working with this Falcon) -x-clamps are attached to a pair of Xenon CPU heatsinks(rectangular, finned, with copper pipe running through the middle) for both the CPU and the GPU -I cut smaller heatsinks from an old Xenon GPU heatsink and placed them onto the ram chips on the topside of the board. -hacked together two fan shrouds into one piece to more effectively split the air between the two fans and give the GPU much more airflow, seems to help keep the pipe much cooler With all this said, I stress tested the system for over an hour earlier today running Crackdown with no problems. Once my glitch chip arrives and I get it installed, I will be able to get some actual temperature measurements and compare them to what I see with my original(actual) Jasper.
  13. *Edit: It looks like my original store bought Jasper actually came with one of the older, higher wattage power supplies that is compatible with a Falcon motherboard. So I was using the correct PS after all. What a strange turn of events...* The plot thickens, or "I really should pay closer attention when identifying Xbox 360 models". When I got what I thought was a Jasper from Habitat, it was half taken apart and the sticker on the separate but included case top on the back indicates 12.1A and a 2009 manufacture date. I've also been testing it with the power supply from my original Jasper arcade. However, I just had J-Runner run a check to identify the NAND chip on the motherboard and it registers as a Falcon/Opus. A look at the power connector on the back of the console further indicates a Falcon because of the single black plastic bar across the top of the connector. By all accounts, a Falcon shouldn't work with a Jasper power supply because it requires 14.5A whereas the Jasper supply only puts out 12.1A, right? I guess this could explain the difficult time i've had getting the system to stay cool and not shut itself down during gameplay. I ordered an RGH glitch chip already, so if it is indeed a Falcon(the system has an HDMI port, I should mention), it should still be worth pursuing for my modding purposes. Is there any other way to confirm on the motherboard that this is not a Jasper?
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