Jump to content
Have You Played Atari Today?
2600|5200|7800|Lynx|Jaguar|Forums|Store  

ataridave

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    1,181

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by ataridave

  1. Posted

    While I certainly hope that there is a price crash with Sega Genesis and SNES games, it doesn't look like it's going happen anytime soon. I checked eBay for Super Castlevania IV, and, cartridge-only, it's going for $44.00. That's up from $33.00 about a year ago. And that's not a rare game.

     

     

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  2. Posted

     

    Yeah, this week. They didn't just design this mini NES yesterday.

    I know that, but they weren't doing bad before that. I think the picture on this will look fantastic! Nintendo knows how to build quality hardware; if it was anyone else making this then I'd be concerned. I wonder which retailers are going to sell this? They're going to go like hotcakes this holiday shopping season.

     

     

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  3. Posted

     

    $185 for the AVS vs $60 for this, plus the AVS has no built-in games. They're not even competing for the same market segment.

     

    Nintendo is creating a Flashback, basically. The point isn't really to have a cartridge slot and play all NES games, the idea is to have a cheap, simple unit that plays a curated list of great games that most people will remember. The AVS is designed for people that really care about NES gaming, so to shit on Nintendo for not adding features that go beyond the point of the console is a head scratcher.

     

    Each feature = more money, so if they added all the features people want (cart slot, SD card slot, espresso maker) they'd end up with a $150 console that people would complain is too expensive.

    I'm not hating on this console, first of all. Given how protective Nintendo are with their IPs, they'd never add an SD card slot so that people could download NES roms and play them on this console. Regardless of markets, I seriously doubt that it would have cost Nintendo that much more money to make this thing larger and include a cartridge slot. Nintendo's rolling in money, partly do to the phenomenal success of Pokemon Go.

     

     

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  5. Posted

    Not sure why everyone is worried about their clock speeds the only speed dependent point in IBM PC history was the 4.77 mhz machines

     

    You take code from one of those and run it on even a 7 or 8 mhz xt and it's going to be bindingly fast. Pretty much ever since then its been a non issue or else your game running on a 66mhZ 486 would be a blur compared to the 386 20mhz base spec.

     

    Unless one is just a pathetic programmer Delta time tween frames is a standard in PC game programming

    I just don't want to get a Windows 98 Pentium II computer where the Windows 98 games, and the older games, run too slow.

     

     

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  7. Posted

    So I saw a YouTube video from someone who has an IBM Aptiva, running Windows 98, with a Pentium II that runs at 400MHz. I've seen other brands of Windows 98 PCs that have the Pentium II, BUT it's running at a lower speed then 400MHz-would there be any way for me to get one and mess with the clock speed somehow? I don't see how I could, unless the PC has some kind of turbo switch, like an old Gateway 2000.

  10. Posted

    I'd love to buy a Gameboy Advance, model AGS-101, with the back light. I don't care what color the unit is, as long it's in excellent condition, and comes with the original charger. Since payment will be made through PayPal, I can pay anyone, anywhere, however I would prefer that the seller be located either here in the USA, or Canada.

     

    That's about it. Please contact me if you're interested! Thanks!-Dave

  11. Posted · Edited by ataridave

    I have the game--and was actually very excited to get it since it was the last red label cart I needed, and it was a lightgun game--but I haven't played it much. To be honest, it was very hard to play because the XE gun is such a piece of junk; it's notoriously inaccurate and with good reason. I guess that is to say I really haven't *played* it yet, I only struggled with the gun. Apart from that I don't have much to comment on. Seems like kind of a neat game otherwise.

    In fairness, I was playing on a 27" CRT and supposedly the XE gun doesn't like TVs much bigger than about 15," which may be true. I recall better performance with 7800 gun games on a 13" screen, but my XE gun still liked to shoot left.

    Thanks for your opinion. I know that Best Electronics have their own light gun, but I haven't read anything about it. It's gotta be better then the XE gun. It's listed here http://www.best-electronics-ca.com/quickguide.htm

  14. Posted

    I've played this game on an Atari compilation for the Nintendo DS, and it was fun, tapping enemies to destroy them. What is it like playing this game on an Atari 2600, with the XE light gun? I've never read any reviews of this game that cover that.

     

     

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  15. Posted

    @Catpix, I don't know if that's necessarily true. It's to my understanding that there were minor differences in hardware between the varying models, and so to ensure compatibility on all units, 3DO required the use of their development software kits. That's not to say one can't write 3DO software without it, it's just that they might have a game that won't work properly or the same across all models.

     

    As far as homebrew, there are a couple of people toying around with the platform at the 3DO Zone forums. It's still not much compared to years ago when this thread was made, but it's something. Someone's toying around with optimizing 3DO DOOM as well. So, it's a start.

     

    Well that's good news!

  18. Posted

    In the basics, there are 3 frequencies used by NTSC signal. The main signal that carries luma signal (used by B&W TV), a color on a different carrier frequency (color TV uses it with luma to get full range), plus audio on another carrier frequency. PAL uses different frequency for those so they would have to be changed to be picked up by NTSC. Also color phasing is different on PAL from NTSC.

     

    Also PAL has more lines per frame, but are only 50 fields per second (25 frames) while NTSC is 60 fields (30 frames) per second so there's more converting beside frequency.

     

     

    So it is generally not simple to convert between NTSC and PAL.

    I know it's not simple, but I have seen composite to HDMI, and RGB to SCART converters that will do the job. My question is about RF.

  19. Posted

    From what I've read, PAL RF gets it's signal through UHF channels, but there are UHF channels here in the USA. I'm just thinking that if I bought a PAL console or computer, RF out might be the cheapest option. Perhaps something like this would work?:

     

    I can't read Portuguese, so I'm not 100% sure that that's what the converter does, but it looks like it.

  20. Posted

    a lot of modern switching supplies have a rating from like 90-240 volts, and on higher powered industrial or computer types there's a toggle switch to choose, the sony suplpies are on the oddball side, once the power leaves the supply its low voltage DC, doesnt care where it comes from

     

    in power supplies that use transformers the output would be 2x as a 110 supply, if it doesnt burn up, and in some cases where the device is using the AC wall frequency like old TV's and radios, the difference tween 50-60Hz will mess with the operation

     

    So the PAL slim model PS2s are exceptions to the rule? :?: As far as voltage step up converters do, I don't want to spend a lot of money-this one looks solid: http://www.220-electronics.com/100-watt-diamond-series-deluxe-voltage-converter.html

  21. Posted

    So Mark, on Classic Game Room, had an episode where he got a PAL slim PS2. And all he had to do to get the right power into the console was swap out another 8.5v slim PS2 power supply, and not use a voltage step up converter. What confuses me about this, is that I was under the impression that ALL PAL hardware, whether it be a gaming console, or a computer, requires 220 volts. Is it just the "newer" hardware that doesn't?

  22. Posted

    They should't be. Just look at naked eye. They should shine, and be straight. If they are bent, you can push them back in place with a ruler. If they are rusted... WTF have you done with it? :D More seriously, I cleaned mien with a bath in crystal vinegar. It dissolve oxydation.

    You should also clean your carts connectors. The simplest way is to get a bit of cardboard and rub it inside the cart. It will remove oxydation from the cart. If you still ahve issues with some games, cleaning them with crystal vinegar will usually do. And if it still doesn't, well then you might have to open it and clean it this way to you can easier access to the PCB, but that's a rare occurence.

     

    OK, thanks! I think all of the screws in the NES are phillips head.

  23. Posted

    I do'nt see why you should buy a new one. I have the same conenctors in my old NESes - and one of them have been in my possession for 20 years now. I cleaned the connector ONCE, about 8 years ago, and it's stull useable today. So unless your conenctor is physically damaged beyond repair, you can just clean it and wait for the Blinking Light.

     

    OK, then I can just clean it. Since the pins are so small, how do I tell if they are physically damaged at all?

  24. Posted · Edited by ataridave

     

    Yes, and for reassembly purposes, keep track of which screws go where. You don't need to put each screw back in exactly the same hole it came out of, but you want to put the same type of screw back in. If I remember right, there are 3 types of screws (maybe more): the type that holds the two half of the outer plastic case together, the type that holds the RF shielding in place, and two silver-colored ones (the rest are goldish colored) that are longer than the rest, which are among the screws which hold the cartridge tray in place. Just keep like grouped with like, and remember or write down where they go.

     

    Getting the cartridge tray back in place correctly can be slightly tricky, because there is a tab in front, on the bottom of it, which has to go under something, and it's easy to get it wrong and still have it go back together, sort of. It is hard to describe (plus it has been a few years since I took one apart). Just pay attention to how the cartridge tray is in there before taking it apart (or better yet, take pictures).

     

    At this point, I wonder if I should just buy a new 72-pin connector, or the blinking light win. Arcade Works has a pretty heavy backlog of orders for the blinking light win, although you can still get one.

AtariAge
Forums
Store
General
Follow AtariAge

Copyright ©1998-2021 AtariAge

×
×
  • Create New...