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About towmater

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  1. Not sure if this is widely known, spankin' new 1200xl keyboard was $30 on eBay, though "Atari" and "1200xl" were nowhere in the description, Radio Shack catalog #277-1018.
  2. I hate to be one to auto-blame the caps, but this case it probably is due to an AC line noise filtering cap.
  3. My senility. The inquiry was still in my drafts folder.
  4. One of the reasons I've decided to do no more case hacking, I did the dirty deed to my TI for the F18A, but when it came time to decide where to mount a DVI to a 1200XL I decided there was a good chance that the Sophia chip was probably not a "forever" solution and that I'd find a way to snake it through an existing opening. Not as neat, but not as destructive.
  5. Pretty pretty sure I just ordered one from A2heaven.com
  6. It's for the wrong computer, so do properly arrange the bus pinout, but other than that this book should tell you what you need to know. https%3A%2F%2Farchive.org%2Fdetails%2FTRS-80_Interfacing_Book_1_19xx_Jonathan_Titus&usg=AOvVaw3KYjugnFuI7ZuuBK0b4Kqb And remember Raspberry Pi's have a different signal voltage compared to anything retro.
  7. Actually OP was able to make it work with an original ST, so I am flummoxed. Can someone confirm the jumper settings on an ST Gotek? Right now I just have the drive 0 select jumper installed.
  8. I used FF V3.2, perhaps I should downgrade if it is buggy.
  9. Out of frustration I moved the drive to inside the ST, and even tried going to HXC compatibility mode, still nothing shows up. I read that early ST's were not compatible with Gotek because of the floppy controller IC, but I thought this was solved by FlashFloppy?
  10. Thank you Forrest, although that circuit still left me with sporadic blanking, when I tried combining your circuit with the original TTL composite sync signal, I have been left with a stable image, so for now this iteration is the best image quality, I'll see how it holds up when I run some games through it. Not having to use a dedicated VGA monitor for the ST is a great advantage. Hopefully I'll be able to get this working with monochrome mode as well.
  11. Sorry, I didn't state it very clearly. The 5V works on the original 32X for which it was made. I didn't plan tp power it via ST until I tried the sync-combo approach, so thank you for stopping me from making that mistake in using the 12V.
  12. I wasn't going to destroy a SF314 to make it a FlashFloppy, but since discovering that the previous owner had simply put a hacked 314 cover on an SF354, I went for it. Any suggestions as to why the B: drive only shows as "0 bytes empty" no matter which SF file I choose on the Gotek?
  13. Since we are on the topic of Hyperkin HDMI convertor hacking... sort of, Looking for clues inside the Hyperkin cable, I spotted this unpopulated trace. According to the manual "if the cable doesn't self power, use the supplied USB cable." Without that diode, like Newman told Redford, "It ain't gonna happen." The convenience of not needing a USB cable and wall-wart far outweighed the $29 risk, so I added the missing diode, and voilá, the thing is now self-powered. In order to use this with the ST, though, I'll need to drop the monitor port's available 12V to 5V using a regulator.
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