towmater

I know this is the official user review, but I find at least four issues with just this one sentence.

Perhaps you can adapt one of the surplus Coleco PSU's on eBay? https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2386202.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.TRS5&_nkw=277-1016 But you'd need to add that 18v ac transformer.

Entirely my fault. That being said... Including a post-it note along with the boards might avoid this for other morons like me who might think the Antic is the last chip in the video chain. Thirty-five years has dulled my A8 knowledge. My mistake affected only one person. Publishing to the internet and the world an incorrect diagram, misleading many, is a higher crime. Thank you for fixing that, hopefully your image will show up in image-search results.

Sage advice. Although I hold some others to a bit higher level of responsibility, I will totally cop to being at fault. I hope someone else might learn from this. Oh, and I made the leap again in saying it was "cooked", once I tried some of my other myriad connections, and Flashjazzcat's direction... SOPHIA IS WORKING FINE. Old-Computers.com can still byte me.

Google image search comes up with two photos that ID the chips in a 1200, and of course the correct one is pages down, and the <I hope OLD-COMPUTERS.COM burns in hell> one is right up there in the first results.

Fuuuu... it is F.O.S. I sure wish the thing had come with a manual.

So this website is completely full of sh*?!:

I surrender. Any help will be appreciated. I had a chance to fit the new DVI version in a 1200xl with zero success. I have tried: DVI cable to a 15Khz capable monitor DVI cable to a recent LCD TV with DVI input DVI cable to a VGA and a scan convertor DVI to VGA straight to monitor DVI to HDMI to two different monitors DVI to HDMI to VGA just to be thorough All of the above on two different 1200's, swapping both machines and Antics in every attempt. Both machines work fine when the Antic is put back into the original socket without the Sophia. The NTSC output on both machines stop working when the Sophia is in place. And for thoroughness, here's the setup:

Interesting, you are suggesting we grade items as "retro" based on the curve of technological advancement? You are positing a day when "retro" is anything you purchased before midnight last night? Awesome Sci-Fi conjecture! I think we should begin to reclassify by eras, therein not everything older than a decade is from the Renaissance era. We could have a golden age of pioneers in gaming, say pre-xBox/PS2. No matter how you slice it, though, DSI and its wacky "SD" cards is really not "retro"

Do you have pictures of the actual item and not from this 2013 website? http://reflectionsonfilmandtelevision.blogspot.com/2013/12/reader-top-ten-greatest-toys-of_14.html

This was a rainy-day project and it never seems to rain, I need to find out how PR#3 works. A recent podcast, maybe Floppy Days, interviewed the designer of the original card who was a ghost writer for Steve Ciarcia. I want to say... John Harrington?

My 1040 STf has a particular floppy controller chip known to be not compatible with the Gotek. I wasn't clear whether changing to HxC firmware would fix that issue?

Do you think an STMF3 would suffice? And... (I know I'm pushing it) what would it take to make this 7800 compatible?

Very nice, though the first notch is so far off-center I could hear Monk screaming from his TV grave.

Tramiel was known for selling a bunch of stock to dealers for $x, then dropping the price of the computer to x/2, leaving the dealers stuck to sell the gear at a loss, or lose the sales entirely to those that bought at the new low prices. I don't think they welcomed further dealings with anything Tramiel, so his answer was essentially "screw 'em, we'll make our own retail network."

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LBg0df_099A Something in a similar vein from my employer, this shows that there are some things you can do with the device's magnetometer instead of using hardware and mechanisms.

https://3ds.guide

Intriguing. Using cheap Verbatim CD-R's, my FZ-1 would play from a disc burnt on an HP usb drive, which has a minimum write speed of 10x, but the same iso written with an Apple 8x usb drive would just spin a bit until it gave up. Conclusion - the burner drive is a variable as much as the medium, but not so much of a limit is that previously described minimum on write speed. I will try some other drives once I dig them out, although after playing Immercenary for five minutes on this test disk, I'm not sure I really want to have any more memories of the 3DO crushed.

I've just finished an rgb->scart cable for my Sony F1-XDJ. I have an 2xsd-based 512 megaram mapper, which turns out to be very confusing to use, as it emulates a variety of things, cartridge rom goes one place, a:, b: the cartridge's files, c: is a Gotek 720kb. I typed b: but accidentally hit b* and it ran the first program that it found with b in it, on another drive - so even the dos is confusing. I still haven't figured out how to run SpaceManBow.

I have the Hyperkin Smartboy, which could be the basis for this if they are now simply embedding their own ARM device instead of relying on the user bringing their own. That device is virtually impossible to use - at first - as the GameBoy controls physically block buttons you need to press on the screen, though I'm sure they'll work that out. Once you have fumbled with it enough to actually read the cartridge, some games work, some don't, yet I am not displeased because once I realized that I should just pre-load all of the GB and GBC roms that I wanted, I could ignore the cartridge slot and just use the GameBoy controls - as if the thing were really a flash cart instead of its intended ability to read legal rom carts. Their injection molded housing design is a bit crude, the buttons wiggle around and are obscenely thick, but ultimately the thing does function, although it makes me appreciate a real GameBoy that much more.

After trying every variation shown on YouTube, each at least a dozen times, I finally had success with one that describes leaving the cd-r Pseudo Saturn Kai CD in until the cd stops spinning with the message "this disc is unsuitable etc.", place an original game in, hit reset, then doing the swap back to the PSK cd-r once the logo "coalesces" on the boot screen. This turned out to be very repeatable and is kinder to your original game disc than trying to slam it in as other methods depicted in how-to videos. I used a verbatim brand disc sold at Best Buy, and burn games with Imgburn on XP run under Parallels on a MacBook. You do need to run the PSK cd-patch program on the game iso before burning. Once Saturn is running the PSK firmware writer, I plugged in an Action Replay to update, with power on. A bit risky I imagine, but it only needs to happen once, and seemed safer than the suggestion of "jiggling the cart at an angle" to keep AR from booting first. The PSK program warned that it didn't recognize the chipset in the AR cartridge, though having spent so much effort getting that far, I decided I had to try anyways, and the new firmware worked fine. The only game I've found that doesn't work is Panzer Dragoon Saga, although the cutscenes play through before the game crashes. I've gotten through a half-dozen games on the compatibility list, US, EU, and JP, and they all work perfectly. Combined with a cheap Amazon Scart cable and HDMI converter, the display is perfect. PSK firmware has certainly breathed new life into my Saturn and I can't recommend it enough.

They felt they had to try, as they had a hard time finding mainstream computer retailers who would feature their products.