towmater

A picture's worth 1024 words:

TL866CS wouldn't read the mystery roms. I tried the TL866A updater, but it is missing a special update.dat file(?) The good news is that I was able to flash one of the UV-erasable 28-pin roms, using a vectrex file (since that's the only thing I could find that used a 28-pin) It looks like I could use this as a dev system!

They don't seem to say "local pickup only"? Wasn't someone asking about a 400 keyboard recently? This is it for $50, although the front of that 400 looks a little tweaked.

you might have to use the pin-header on the GBS, I could never get it to work properly with the 15-pin input (with the 500 only.)

So you need another TL866 to flash the one being modded? The ICSP port sounds somewhat interesting because I often see things like "ST mouse to PS2 mouse" sorts of projects that require a PIC chip and from what I gather the ICSP port can program those microcontrollers?

Thanks for that, Bryan, I ordered the Amazon one if only because it was a cheap and easy way to test the waters.

Yep, I just found that out, after opening the ones I had. Everything but the Abbuc USB cartridge had four pins fewer. (Ok, I just opened that last one because it seems otherwise to be gathering dust.) I have always wanted an eprom programmer. That's why I buy any of this stuff, to obtain the things I could not afford as a kid. Does anyone have a reccomendation as to where and what to buy in order to program old eproms? I have a bunch of 27c256b's (the kind with the uv window) that I've been sitting on for a decade or so, waiting for the rest of the puzzle to come together.

It sounds like they could be for 8-bit then? What if I put them in an a800 cartridge and plugged it into the atari. Couldn't hurt, right?

Amongst the pile of serial/parallel interfaces I just bought at Goodwill (an 850 and an ICD 850 clone) were two ROM-like IC's in black foam labelled "Toshiba TMM23256P 6362 8618HAK" and "Toshiba TMM23256P 6356 8614HAK". It seems like a lot of trouble keeping thirty year old IC's protected for no reason, so I wonder if any of our brethren have an idea what is in these? There are a couple of reasons why I think these chips may belong in an ST instead of an 8-bit, one being the "256" which sounds large for an 800, and the second being two unopened 8-inch long 9-pin joystick extenders also in the pile that seem perfect for extending the under-keyboard mouse ports on an ST.

My TV has a "ratio" button that controls this.

I followed the console5 instructions on cutting a couple of chokes and a cb trace to the ram, just to be certain, but then just took out the old chips, because you are correct, they would still draw power. There's no huge border. The colors look spot-on.

I don't think any two televisions are going to show the same color , much less have absolutely original colors.

I paid $80 for the F18a and $20 for the vga-hdmi board at Fry's. This also saves you from needing to buy a console5 ram set if you come across a swap-meet CV without power supply, (as was in my case) you can just use a 5V wall wart instead. Matt confirms that he's manufacturing more as we speak.

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/193925-matthew180s-f18a-is-available-for-pre-order/?p=3188712 HDMI, 5 volt only mod, and runs without RAM chips, all for under $100US. NO FLICKER. And Matt recently added a scan-line emulator to the firmware.

Pretty sure they are still available from Matt's reseller.

Watch out for missing power supplies and cables. I bought a "cheap" A500 from Goodwill and ended up spending $30 more on a pico PSU because the power supply wasn't included, which worked out really nicely because I can now power it from a commonly available 12V brick instead of finding the weird square PSU connector. Adding a Gotkek floppy emulator, an arcade video board, and a 23-pin convertor really brought the cost up. Not a bad thing, all part of the fun, but just be aware you get what you see in the auction photos.

By the way, it worked fine in a 500 without hacking up the floppy port, which would allow the original floppy to be put back in later, if another better storage solution comes along.

I just put one in a 500. The programmer was $12 from Amazon, and I used XP under Parallels to program the firmware http://www.amazon.com/ADAFRUIT-INDUSTRIES-954-SERIAL-RASPBERRY/dp/B00DJUHGHI/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1440344274&sr=1-1&keywords=adafruit

YMMV, depending on your printer's idiosyncrasies. In my case, it works fine with a light-touch, but if you press too hard North, for example, the diagonals will end up pressing as well.

Well there it is. I've used it to replace the broken one in my controller. STL's attached. No Warranty! coleco controller thing.zip

Just like those action-figure hoarding wonks, one edge is in getting to know the employees and have them put aside certain types of items. Or, just like Storage Wars, put phony video game "finds" in the storage unit, yell "Oh..my..god..", then cut to a commercial!

The +5v only mod is a good option, and as the f18a thread recently showed, that chip can also be used as a +5v only mod