-
Content Count
803 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Posts posted by towmater
-
-
On 12/26/2019 at 4:36 PM, Tursi said:There you go, I added the laptop idea to my tasklist. Now lets see how serious you are
Would this be considered a monolithic architecture?
-
Not on eBay yet... I think I need to sell my PEB, as it has seen little use of late. But it is heavier than an IBM 5150 or a small yacht anchor. Is it even worth selling if it cannot be shipped with reasonable assurance of survival?
-
2 hours ago, OLD CS1 said:You might be able to snag one here in AA for a better price if you post in the Wanted sub of the Marketplace.
I should get around to offering up some trades. I have an Atari 1200XL that needs a new home, etc.
I'm just finding out that the Indus itself may be capable of running CP/M. Not loading it... it runs on the drive's internal Z80 CPU, apparently. (It may only work on the Atari version, I'm not certain.)
-
On 12/31/2019 at 8:08 AM, motrucker said:I would highly recommend getting a real 1571 to use with your "new" C-128.
I've been watching auctions. For $75-ish I can buy a questionable drive, for $125-ish a tested drive.
-
16 hours ago, Casey said:If it's an actual CP/M boot disk image, after you mount it in the SD2IEC, you'll have to use this command: BOOT,D0,U9
I guess BOOT D0,U9. This almost worked, but halfway through decided it wanted to use the Indus and offered up a "READ ERROR". I'll play with giving it a blank floppy in unit 8.
-
-
I can't help but let anyone within earshot know that a 1581 is on ShopGoodwill at this moment.
-
-
11 hours ago, OLD CS1 said:I believe GG Labs has created a REU clone.As for copying, you are really going to make me pull out my CP/M stuff... or Google, whichever I get to first. I believe the CP/M directory is different than the CBM directory. I have no idea if D128/64IT will handle them.Many thanks. We Retroists seem to forget that Google stopped working as an easy search tool a decade or more ago.
Eating my words, Google led to this:
https://sites.google.com/site/h2obsession/CBM/C128/cp-m
And the same search engine confirms that SD2IEC will read a D71 format.
There, now was that so hard? I think perhaps Google has cataloged more info on the Commodore machines than some other devices for which I've searched lately. "XTIDE in an AMSTRAD PPC640" anyone?
-
1
-
-
4 hours ago, OLD CS1 said:The Indus GT can only read GCR-formatted disks, so any of the other CP/M formats will be unreadable. For the most part, though, if he is only working with C128 CP/M stuff he should be fine. It will be slow, for certain. A 1581 is fantastic for CP/M, and I recommend an REU as the system gets built up.
5 hours ago, Casey said:If I remember right (from years ago) - the CP/M system disk is a flippy disk - not a double sided disk (i.e. you turn it over to use the back side). It should boot in a 1541 but it certainly would not be fast. The 1541 can’t use any of the MFM formatted CP/M disks that the 1571 can read however. May or may not be an issue in your case.
I think to make a system disk, you use the FORMAT.COM utility in CP/M to format the disk first, and then you just need to PIP the CPM+.SYS and CCP.COM to the new disk and it will be bootable.
Thanks for this. Is there an REU clone design? I should also mention that I have an IEC2SD device, and wonder if D128IT or D64IT can be used to transfer the necessary CP/M data to a floppy. (Or could I boot CP/M from the SD?) I'm not sure how one would use the CP/M format command without booting... unless this can be done on another machine such as a PC first.
-
you'll need the long-lost instructions
https://web.archive.org/web/20030710103523/http://www.8bitdesigns.com/howto/d64it/d64it.html
-
-
The word is spoken...
The NOS keys sold as Archer are labeled (on the back) as 99/4, but they are really 4A's. This might be good news, if you have a 4A with keyboard issues (or just missing keys) there is often one of these replacements on eBay.
-
4 hours ago, RickyDean said:Is this beige keyboard from a TI99/4? It looks just like a beige TI99/4a keyboard.
Probably they used the same tooling. Most beige 99/4a keyboards had computers attached, from what I understand, the inventory of 99/4 keyboards were purchased by a Texas-based computer retailer and resold as "experimenter's Special Purchase", thus the New Old Stock status. I guess a key identifier would be whether the beige 99/4a's used the mylar method.
-
-
37 minutes ago, --- Ω --- said:That's the point of failure for most mylar keyboards. My fix is to build a mound of solder onto the PC board, then use a piece of poycarbonate (shown here temporarily clamped to the board until I can melt screw holes into it) to put many times more pressure on the connections compared to the original.
-
-
31 minutes ago, --- Ω --- said:If it's a Mitsumi, it's very possible it's in need of overhauling. It's not the easiest keyboard to mess with either.
If it's not the membrane, sometimes, because of age, a wire can break in the ribbon cable causing havoc as well.
Greg, (arcadeshopper) sells replacement ribbon cables if that is what it turns out to be, if it's the membrane keyboard someone here posted instructions on how to repair it.
I recently installed a NOS keyboard on a 1200XL, which had keys that would finally respond with repeated hard presses, but in this case the unresponsive keys are completely... unresponsive. I guess I am going back in, although I'm not looking forward to removing the 25 small screws on the back of the keyboard.
-
1
-
-
18 minutes ago, arcadeshopper said:The pinout is documented for the 4a it should take about a minute to confirm with a meter if the 4 is the same
Some keys work. I was hoping for an easy answer, as it took me about ten minutes to open the case, figure out what was catching (right-angle cartridge header), determine whether to unhook the PSU harness or unscrew the assy. (one can't easily reach the PSU connector release tab,) work out how to close the case with the new longer, stiffer (don't) keyboard cable, close the case, reopen the case to find out what was rattling (sliding port door snuck away), reopen the case to reposition the power jack, reopen the case to figure out why the power-switch would no longer slide to the on-position...
I know I will need to go back in there at some point, the question is do I do that after refurbing the black keyboard, or do I waste time trouble-shooting something when someone here like a Tursi will know the answer. And yes, writing all of this was still easier than opening and closing a 4A.
-
I thought I'd save the trouble trying to fix my keyboard, and just swap in a TI-99 NOS keyboard.
The "A", "Q", "ENTER" and a few other keys don't work. This can't be right, right? They would not have changed the wiring scheme from the /4 to the /4A? should I waste time trying to find a fault or is this hopeless?
-
1
-
-
-
On 10/2/2019 at 8:10 AM, davidcalgary29 said:you can easy select the 6V setting required by this device
OOPS! I've been using a 5V adapter on mine for, I guess decades... and it still works fine, (battery still works as well, I wonder if the undervolt condition helped preserve the battery?)
-
-
That might negatively impact the pad-printing, haze the plastic... inflammable stuff is not that gentle. You might test it on an interior plastic surface to make sure you don't create an 8-bit Guy Osborne situation.
-
1
-

TI Related -- Ebay / Heads Up Notice
in TI-99/4A Computers
Posted
I've been told that I can use our corporate shipping rate, so maybe it won't be too bad, at least to someone in the Southwestern US.