towmater

That might negatively impact the pad-printing, haze the plastic... inflammable stuff is not that gentle. You might test it on an interior plastic surface to make sure you don't create an 8-bit Guy Osborne situation.

Paint might help it hold together a little longer, it's probably worth a try since you'd dispose of it in any case (no pun.) Perhaps avoid garish colors.

It's 49152. I guess this is moot now, because I ordered a "Saturn Rocket 128K" card out of frustration. The strange thing, though is that I had been using the CFFA3000 without issue before adding the language card, and now that I have removed the language card the CFFA will not boot anymore, flashing "Requires 64K". UPDATE: all of the stored settings in the CFFA went away for some reason, it works now.

Yes, it cleverly accesses address and data lines by hijacking one of the mobo ram chips. I will search around for a diagnostic program. I used a mini-pro to verify that all of the 74 logic is working properly, but I don't know for certain that the eight 8118 chips are all OK. Is there a simple way to print the memory size in Basic?

Wanting to use the "greatest HD image ever" recently posted here, I found that I need to run ProDos to use HD images with a CFFA3000. No Problem, I thought, I'll add this Microsoft 16K "language card", however ProDos still complains that it wants 64K. Is this the wrong way to upgrade an A2+?

Ah, so you didn't actually click on the link. 'nuff said.

But you didn't link to a binary package. "Again: There is still some "building" to do, no full, ready to burn, binary will be provided by me, but I've tried to make it as easy as possible for you to create one." (..except leaving it unclear how to build these.)

How do you build these?

Typically, lacking dimensioned plans for the ports, we'd 3D scan the INTV internals, then use a parametric modeling program to build a new housing design around the scan data. Here be one example of the process I've been tweaking of late.

I have a projector decommissioned from a fun park, and a Pangolin PCI card. Can I potentially use your software with such a configuration?

Cheaper than buying new 1200xl function key covers, these (the seller has more than one) NOS Atari keyboards still have the gummy protector film in place. You will still need a new mylar, or do the compression trick, because the glue delamination issue isn't a function of usage. https://www.ebay.com/itm/153578991216

Not sure if this is widely known, spankin' new 1200xl keyboard was $30 on eBay, though "Atari" and "1200xl" were nowhere in the description, Radio Shack catalog #277-1018.

I hate to be one to auto-blame the caps, but this case it probably is due to an AC line noise filtering cap.

My senility. The inquiry was still in my drafts folder.

One of the reasons I've decided to do no more case hacking, I did the dirty deed to my TI for the F18A, but when it came time to decide where to mount a DVI to a 1200XL I decided there was a good chance that the Sophia chip was probably not a "forever" solution and that I'd find a way to snake it through an existing opening. Not as neat, but not as destructive.

Pretty pretty sure I just ordered one from A2heaven.com

No response.

No Dr. Smith, the Tomy Parker game!?

It's for the wrong computer, so do properly arrange the bus pinout, but other than that this book should tell you what you need to know. https%3A%2F%2Farchive.org%2Fdetails%2FTRS-80_Interfacing_Book_1_19xx_Jonathan_Titus&usg=AOvVaw3KYjugnFuI7ZuuBK0b4Kqb And remember Raspberry Pi's have a different signal voltage compared to anything retro.

Actually OP was able to make it work with an original ST, so I am flummoxed. Can someone confirm the jumper settings on an ST Gotek? Right now I just have the drive 0 select jumper installed.

I used FF V3.2, perhaps I should downgrade if it is buggy.

Out of frustration I moved the drive to inside the ST, and even tried going to HXC compatibility mode, still nothing shows up. I read that early ST's were not compatible with Gotek because of the floppy controller IC, but I thought this was solved by FlashFloppy?

Thank you Forrest, although that circuit still left me with sporadic blanking, when I tried combining your circuit with the original TTL composite sync signal, I have been left with a stable image, so for now this iteration is the best image quality, I'll see how it holds up when I run some games through it. Not having to use a dedicated VGA monitor for the ST is a great advantage. Hopefully I'll be able to get this working with monochrome mode as well.

Sorry, I didn't state it very clearly. The 5V works on the original 32X for which it was made. I didn't plan tp power it via ST until I tried the sync-combo approach, so thank you for stopping me from making that mistake in using the 12V.

I wasn't going to destroy a SF314 to make it a FlashFloppy, but since discovering that the previous owner had simply put a hacked 314 cover on an SF354, I went for it. Any suggestions as to why the B: drive only shows as "0 bytes empty" no matter which SF file I choose on the Gotek?