Quick question for the group

[Quick question for the group]

Paint might help it hold together a little longer, it's probably worth a try since you'd dispose of it in any case (no pun.)

Perhaps avoid garish colors.

[How to bring Apple ][+ to 64K]

1 hour ago, The Usotsuki said:

 

That shows the location of the top of memory (usually 49152).

It's 49152. I guess this is moot now, because I ordered a "Saturn Rocket 128K" card out of frustration. The strange thing, though is that I had been using the CFFA3000 without issue before adding the language card, and now that I have removed the language card the CFFA will not boot anymore, flashing "Requires 64K".  UPDATE: all of the stored settings in the CFFA went away for some reason, it works now.

 

[How to bring Apple ][+ to 64K]

6 hours ago, The Usotsuki said:

ETA: Doesn't that card require one of the chips on the mobo to be moved to the card or something like that like the Apple card?

Yes, it cleverly accesses address and data lines by hijacking one of the mobo ram chips. I will search around for a diagnostic program. I used a mini-pro to verify that all of the 74 logic is working properly, but I don't know for certain that the eight 8118 chips are all OK. Is there a simple way to print the memory size in Basic?

 

[How to bring Apple ][+ to 64K]

Wanting to use the "greatest HD image ever" recently posted here, I found that I need to run ProDos to use HD images with a CFFA3000.

 

No Problem, I thought, I'll add this Microsoft 16K "language card", however ProDos still complains that it wants 64K.

 

Is this the wrong way to upgrade an A2+?

 

 

[Floppy Emu on a 2c]

15 hours ago, R.Cade said:

On that page, there is a link that says "The binary release". Not sure how more clear that could be.

 

Ah, so you didn't actually click on the link. 'nuff said.

[Floppy Emu on a 2c]

On 7/31/2019 at 5:02 AM, R.Cade said:

You download the binary package and burn them to EPROM.

But you didn't link to a binary package. 

"Again: There is still some "building" to do, no full, ready to burn, binary will be provided by me, but I've tried to make it as easy as possible for you to create one."

 

(..except leaving it unclear how to build these.)

[Floppy Emu on a 2c]

8 hours ago, R.Cade said:

What's the big deal? The ROMs are here... http://apple2.guidero.us/doku.php?id=projects:rom_4x_and_5x

 

How do you build these?

[3D Printed Housing for Intellivision II ?]

Typically, lacking dimensioned plans for the ports, we'd 3D scan the INTV internals, then use a parametric modeling program to build a new housing design around the scan data.

Here be one example of the process I've been tweaking of late.

[Laser Vectrex game testing]

I have a projector decommissioned from a fun park, and a Pangolin PCI card. Can I potentially use your software with such a configuration?

[Wanted: Interesting Auctions]

Cheaper than buying new 1200xl function key covers, these (the seller has more than one) NOS Atari keyboards still have the gummy protector film in place.  You will still need a new mylar, or do the compression trick, because the glue delamination issue isn't a function of usage.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/153578991216

[Tips/Tricks/Products Used In Restoration]

Not sure if this is widely known, spankin' new 1200xl keyboard was $30 on eBay, though "Atari" and "1200xl" were nowhere in the description,

Radio Shack catalog #277-1018.

[Problem with "new" Mega STE power supply]

I hate to be one to auto-blame the caps, but this case it probably is due to an AC line noise filtering cap.

[VidHD HDMI Board Update]

12 hours ago, towmater said:

No response.

My senility. The inquiry was still in my drafts folder.

[F18A MK2]

On 6/20/2019 at 7:03 AM, --- Ω --- said:

My hope is to swap out the VGA connector on the back of my TI with an HDMI one (using the adapter cable).  I know a quite a few of us mounted our F18A's the same way...

  

One of the reasons I've decided to do no more case hacking, I did the dirty deed to my TI for the F18A, but when it came time to decide where to mount a DVI to a 1200XL I decided there was a good chance that the Sophia chip was probably not a "forever" solution and that I'd find a way to snake it through an existing opening. Not as neat, but not as destructive.

[[WATARA] [VECTREX] Flash cart rewritable multigame cartridge available]

43 minutes ago, zezba9000 said:

Any of these still exist for the WATARA? Any WATARA flash/multi carts around?

Pretty pretty sure I just ordered one from A2heaven.com

[VidHD HDMI Board Update]

On 7/3/2019 at 8:18 PM, Aunty Entity said:

[email protected] is the place to ask.

 

No response.

[Finally, the 5 Parker handhelds from the 70s + the mid 90s game)]

No Dr. Smith, the Tomy Parker game!?

 

[Cartridge port question]

It's for the wrong computer, so do properly arrange the bus pinout, but other than that this book should tell you what you need to know.

 

https%3A%2F%2Farchive.org%2Fdetails%2FTRS-80_Interfacing_Book_1_19xx_Jonathan_Titus&usg=AOvVaw3KYjugnFuI7ZuuBK0b4Kqb

 

And remember Raspberry Pi's have a different signal voltage compared to anything retro.

[GOTEK in an external FDD?]

On 7/5/2019 at 8:36 AM, towmater said:

 I read that early ST's were not compatible with Gotek because of the floppy controller IC, but I thought this was solved by FlashFloppy?

Actually OP was able to make it work with an original ST, so I am flummoxed. Can someone confirm the jumper settings on an ST Gotek? Right now I just have the drive 0 select jumper installed.

[GOTEK in an external FDD?]

21 hours ago, 256 colors said:

In case you don't have them hope these help

 

FlashFloppy firmware is 2.13

 

 

I used FF V3.2, perhaps I should downgrade if it is buggy.

[GOTEK in an external FDD?]

20 hours ago, towmater said:

Any suggestions as to why the B: drive only shows as "0 bytes empty" no matter which SF file I choose on the Gotek?

 

Out of frustration I moved the drive to inside the ST, and even tried going to HXC compatibility mode, still nothing shows up. I read that early ST's were not compatible with Gotek because of the floppy controller IC, but I thought this was solved by FlashFloppy?

[Almost the ultimate cheap RGB->HDMI adapter]

2 hours ago, Forrest said:

I was able to connect a 1040ST to a Sony KV-20XBR by building a cable that connected HSync and VSync using 2 resistors and 2 diodes. This information may be helpful to you. I've attached my instructions from 1987

 

Thank you Forrest, although that circuit still left me with sporadic blanking, when I tried combining your circuit with the original TTL composite sync signal, I have been left with a stable image, so for now this iteration is the best image quality, I'll see how it holds up when I run some games through it.

 

Not having to use a dedicated VGA monitor for the ST is a great advantage. Hopefully I'll be able to get this working with monochrome mode as well.

[Almost the ultimate cheap RGB->HDMI adapter]

1 minute ago, ParanoidLittleMan said:

Did you check is there +5V under work really ?  

Sorry, I didn't state it very clearly. The 5V works on the original 32X for which it was made. I didn't plan tp power it via ST until I tried the sync-combo approach, so thank you for stopping me from making that mistake in using the 12V.

[GOTEK in an external FDD?]

I wasn't going to destroy a SF314 to make it a FlashFloppy, but since discovering that the previous owner had simply put a hacked 314 cover on an SF354, I went for it.  Any suggestions as to why the B: drive only shows as "0 bytes empty" no matter which SF file I choose on the Gotek?

[Almost the ultimate cheap RGB->HDMI adapter]

Since we are on the topic of Hyperkin HDMI convertor hacking... sort of, 

 

Looking for clues inside the Hyperkin cable, I spotted this unpopulated trace. According to the manual "if the cable doesn't self power, use the supplied USB cable."  

 

Without that diode, like Newman told Redford, "It ain't gonna happen."  The convenience of not needing a USB cable and wall-wart far outweighed the $29 risk, so I added the missing diode, and voilá, the thing is now self-powered. In order to use this with the ST, though, I'll need to drop the monitor port's available 12V to 5V using a regulator.