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Posts posted by towmater
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1 hour ago, ParanoidLittleMan said:Still, idea about correcting C-sync may solve it.
I think it wants to see certain sync conditions. I'll have to look into some of the other Hyperkin HDMI convertors (I know there's one for N64 -which is not S-Video, and one for PS2, which definitely is RGB), so perhaps one of the other versions uses separated sync signals. In any case, some success, I did just get the Genesis one to work by adding a 100Ohm resistor between the composite connector (on the Genesis end) and the comp sync pin on the ST side. Since the STF doesn't generate composite video, I'm certain what I'm viewing on my TV is an RGB image. I think the result can be cleaner, so I will examine some suggestions for combining H/V sync to see what happens, but for now, it is not a bad deal for US$29.
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2 minutes ago, Christos said:but don't quote me on that.
I tried 45 different TV's, I don't think I'll find one with more tolerances!
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I bought a Hyperkin Sega Genesis RGB-to-HDMI cable from Amazon for my 32X, and it came with a short adapter for use with a Model 1 Genesis, so I thought... this must be easier to use with an ST than dragging out my 15KHz monitor, or using an bulky wall-warted SCART-to-HDMI convertor.
In short, after soldering on an ST connector, it works on a 1040 STF, but I have an issue on which one of you may have some insight...
Wiring the comp sync line from the ST to the Csync line on the Genesis side results in the HDMI screen blanking out every few seconds. This is something I saw before with a Sophia on the 1200XL, and that was cleared-up when I used a DVI-to-HDMI dongle to insert the XL's audio. In this case, however, the audio signal is available on the ST monitor port and is wired to the Hyperkin adapter, so it probably isn't a case of missing audio packets on the HDMI side.
I then pushed the ST Csync line into the Genesis CVBS line on the Hyperkin adapter, and the monitor image properly remains on, but jitters a bit too much, was in a half-inch from side-to-side constantly.
Hopefully our Wunderkind can suggest what might be off here? Some pinouts show the Csync line on the ST being labeled as "TTL" where the seperated H/V sync lines are not labeled as such, should I try combining those instead?
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1 hour ago, Majdachi said:Dear all,
I'm searching for the following flashback v2018 working ROMs:
I gather from this that the usual dumps do not work with the FBP? Is there any info as to why there might be compatibility issues, and has anyone found fixes for some other roms? Sorry to hijack, but since a rom is rather deterministic in content*, I'd love to know what can be done to fix these issues (*unless various bug-fix versions of roms were made back-in-the-day.)
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On 6/17/2019 at 7:48 PM, Console gamer said:Hey everyone! I recently received an Atari 1040 STE. I didn't receive a din cable for it, I was planning on using on more of a modern monitor/tv. I looked for adaptor but nothing seems to work for me. The VGA adapter only outputs monochrome and the rca cable only works for the atm model! What can I do?
Scart 2 hdmi
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6 hours ago, gbennett0321 said:I recently acquired a fully working Death Star
Greg Bennett
Don't quote me on this, but there were several other devices using the OEM(?) M100 design, from Olivetti, NEC, and Kyocera. Sorry, hazy memory, though my point is that you might find searching for memory for one of these other models may be more fruitful... if they are indeed pin-compatible. Someone also sold cloned memory on eBay as recently as 2016, unfortunately the chip in mine is hard to read, it says something like "poiner", plus I can't quite make out the last letter, it might be a "v" I may have bought it from Arcadeshopper.com.
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11 hours ago, orrko8791 said:Definitely Some "Running Up" The Bid Tactics By Other Entity's,I Have Dealt On and Off With The Shop Goodwill For A Few Years and I Will Be The First To Say There Is Something Fishy Behind Closed Doors About Their Auction Amounts,As Well On Three Occasions I Viewed Game Lots Being Bid Through The Roof and Low and Behold A Few Months Would Go By and I Would See These Same Lots Listed Again,Either The Buyer Did Not Pay (Unlikely) Or There Is A "Real Reason" To Be Re-Listing After Auction Closes To A Highest Bidder.The Site Has Become Very Discouraging.
I've had a few questionable S.G. dealings, in a few cases I was outbid, then mysteriously won the auctions. I suspect that there are no repercussions for a store bidding on their own auctions to raise the price to what my max bid is, then cancelling their own bids.
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has someone made a usb driver for this yet? It would be cool on an emulator.
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avoiding rounding errors seems like a perfectly valid explanation, and is reason enough by itself.
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The Mac mini g4 has some things going for it, there is a version of Amiga OS for it, and it is one of the last Apple machines to come with OS9 classic compatibility OS.
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That Atwater Goodwill's been on a roll lately, they just had two TI/99-4's (not 4A's) for auction. Basically this tells me not to bother going to the store, because they know what is profitable when auctioned, although at this point probably every Goodwill is aware of that.
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I am testing some new quantum time-tunneling software, so I thought I'd take the opportunity to post this from the year 2039, and bump-up my place in the queue for when they do become available. I'd like to know if you will be able to hyper-drone the shipment to New Canada once the atmospheric vapor-lock dissapates?
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I had nearly the same thing happen last week, and you probably should regrease the rails, although simply using it for a while seemed to be enough to make mine spread the lubrication a bit and started working properly by itself.
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4 hours ago, Shannon said:Just a warning for anyone who was thinking of getting one of those True Blue pre-loaded memory sticks
Can I take the iso's off of this Crackhead and put just those on an Autobleem drive?
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I put my board layouts on Osh Park as an easy way for anyone to order, with the caveat that they make you order at least three, so it is not the most cost effective, but better than nothing. It also means I don't have to provide support if I were to sell the boards and folks did crazy things (like I usually do) and put one of the chips on backwards.
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They showed it on a tall stand, with the yoke up out of reach, so I couldn't try it, I imagine they didn't want people to judge it just yet.
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I've been meaning to install an F18A and this seems like a great idea to add at the same time, is there a shop link I missed somewhere?
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A lot of programs, like the Overcast I use, will ignore all but the latest three podcasts if released all at once. I'm sure there is a per-cast setting to adjust this, but FYI.
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Did I read somewhere that flash cards exist for this system? I recall vaguely there was some compatibility with Vectrex eprom carrier type cards.
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At Goodwill I found an Atari 2600 portable for $5 and a Snes mini for $5... here's the thing: Goodwill's never have anything good, but this particular shop is next to some college dorms, and those kids, when they move out, don't have a care in the world (for the time being) so they dump electronics that would be a hassle to move. I walk past stacks of Wii's, PS2's, XBOX OG's, and ten years from now I will be posting "I used to walk past stacks of those things" as the value skyrockets.
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There is absolutely nothing to find in the picked-over carcass of retro-computing that is Los Angeles. Even Game Dude has begun to run out of retro items of interest, as people learn the art of "picking" from YouTubers and TV shows.
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Kudos... molding, casting, painting, and shipping 500 action figures for just $8500 is quite an achievement in cost-cutting.
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Probably shouldn't judge the latest Fords by the Model A. I vote for Desert Falcon.
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Almost the ultimate cheap RGB->HDMI adapter
in Atari ST/TT/Falcon Computers
Posted
Interestingly, the "no signal" display from a $35 Amazon generic SCART-to-HDMI and the Hyperkin converter is the same, I gather some generic circuit is involved.