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rfancella

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Posts posted by rfancella

  1. Posted

    I got the mod in yesterday.  Installed it and it's working great!  Well, working good.  LOL.  Some jailbars, but that should get better once I shorten all the wires.  :)

    Thank you!!

    On 4/1/2021 at 2:12 PM, -^CrossBow^- said:

    Let us know how it works out. If you still have issues after that, I have to think it is something else within the Intellivision causing it. But from what I can tell, most of these kits are all based on the schematics from the Wiki with just some slight variances on the values used or exact type of components used and their designs in how they lay them out. Although I've not used the specific kit you listed personally, it seems to follow the same design as others that I have used in the past.

     

    • Like 1

  2. Posted

    Thanks again!

    I just ordered a Winz mod.  Should have gone with this one first go round.  LOL

    I'll report back my findings.  :D

    59 minutes ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

    I've not used that mod. I've used Retrofixes kits in the past, the guy from Turkey that has been mentioned in these threads before although I haven't purchased one of his kits in quite some time, and lately I've been using the kits that Winz sells. I've not had that happen with any of them that I've used and I've installed quite a few into other Intellivisions over the past few years and haven't heard of anything like this happening.

     

    I pull the +5 from about the same place. I actually pull it from off the end of the ferrite bead just after that point since that is easier to solder to without risk to the already old and fragile ribbon cables. I pull the audio from a capacitor leg instead of from the RF modulator but it is along the same path. And video I pull from the unused pad/via just before the RF modulator on that same trace.

     

    The only other thing I can think of is that I tend to replace the two 3609s transistors just above the CPU as those burn out pretty often and replace them as a preventive measure.

     

  3. Posted

    I am pulling power from the leg that is connected to the 5v rail of JW6
     (right next to the power ribbon cable).

    30 minutes ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

    I've installed quite a few different composite upgrade kits in the model 1 units and haven't ever encountered this screen darkening issue? That said, the spec of the components does matter as I've used kits with 5% spec'd resistors and get different results from those with 1% resistors. Lately I've used the kits sold on ebay from Winz and they seem nice and bright on my setups. Some of the colors are off with all the kits however. Even the two different RGB kits I've been messing with lately have different results due to the components used and the way they were configured.

     

    But what you are describing sounds like a power issue to the mod board? Where are you pulling your voltage from and what exact mod board are you using?

     

  4. Posted

    The RF Modulator is still in place and works just fine with the mod in place.

    3 minutes ago, ChildOfCv said:

    Did you remove the RF modulator?  I see someone mentioned theirs is still there, as if to imply that some remove theirs.  It is essential to keep the RF modulator in the system for the mod that is linked to, because the system needs a pull-up voltage which the modulator supplies, but the mod does not.

  5. Posted

    Thanks for your quick reply!

    I am getting a steady 5.02vdc at the power in on the mod.

    The mod I am using is:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/183545797927

     

    23 minutes ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

    I've installed quite a few different composite upgrade kits in the model 1 units and haven't ever encountered this screen darkening issue? That said, the spec of the components does matter as I've used kits with 5% spec'd resistors and get different results from those with 1% resistors. Lately I've used the kits sold on ebay from Winz and they seem nice and bright on my setups. Some of the colors are off with all the kits however. Even the two different RGB kits I've been messing with lately have different results due to the components used and the way they were configured.

     

    But what you are describing sounds like a power issue to the mod board? Where are you pulling your voltage from and what exact mod board are you using?

     

  6. Posted

    Hello All!

    So, yea, I know this post is almost 10 years old.  LOL

    Has anyone found a solution to this issue?  I just installed the mod and I get the same results: On power up, the picture looks fine.  Within 10 seconds or so the picture gets so dim I can hardly see it.

     

    Thanks,

    Ron

    On 6/20/2012 at 12:47 AM, ApolloBoy said:

    This is the second time I've tried the AV mod on the Intellivision Wiki, this time on an Intellivision II as opposed to a Super Video Arcade. I have it built exactly according to the schematic, but when I first turned it on, the picture appeared nice and stable for a second. However, it began to fade out and now it doesn't display anything at all. If I turn it on again after a few minutes, a very faint picture will appear and then fade out to nothing again. I didn't disconnect the RF modulator in any way so I'm utterly confused here. The mod is here if anyone's curious: http://wiki.intellivision.us/index.php?title=Intellivision_Composite_Video_Modification

  9. Posted · Edited by rfancella

    Item sold elsewhere.

     

    Hello All,

    This is my first "For Sale" post, so please be kind. ;)

     

    I have an original Atari C061982 power supply. I purchased it recently off the "other bay". It is not what I needed, partially my fault and partially the sellers.

     

    Atari#: C061982 (nicknames: "Box" or "Peanut")

    "Power Supply"

    UL Listed: 771K, Made in Taiwan

    Type: SA R05-18

    Input: 120V~60Hz 25W

    Output: 5V-1.5A 7.5VA

    Shipped with: 130XE(most)

    Recommended for: 600XL,800XL,65XE,130XE,XEgs

    http://mcurrent.name/powersupplies/61982-Box.jpg

     

    I am asking $30.00 including shipping. I ask the buyer pay $25.00 and the buyer pay shipping + PP fees or Gift.

     

    Here are the pics:

    Atari%20PS%20C061982.jpg

     

    Atari%20PS%20Top.jpg

     

    Atari%20PS%20Ends.jpg

     

     

     

    Ready to be boxed:

     

    Atari%20PS%20Ready%20to%20be%20packaged.

     

     

    In a nice warm bubble wrap:

     

    Atari%20PS%20bubbled.jpg

     

    Boxed and ready to be shipped to a new home:

     

    Atari%20PS%20Boxed.jpg

     

     

    PS: I would also be interested in trading this for a SF314 or SF354 Power Supply.

     

    Thanks,

    Ron

  12. Posted

    Ok, done. What a PITA it was. The floppy header anyway. ;)

    I wanted to do this so I could put a longer floppy cable and power cable on it. Route it outside the case to make it easier to swap drives. ;)

    Here are my results.

     

    The before. The two original connections with the floppy cable removed:

    Before.jpg

     

    New headers installed:

    New%20Headers.jpg

     

    Working! :D

    Working.jpg

     

    As you can see in the second picture, the motherboard got a little scratched up in the process. I checked continuity across the circuits and it all looked good.

    So the first time I fired it up, I got nothing. A solid access light on the keyboard. I thought, "crap, I mucked up the job!". So just to be sure, I hooked up the Gotek to my A500 and got the "Insert WB" screen. Whew. My MicroSD-to-USB adapter fried. Go figure. So I went through all my USB drives (five of them) and the last one worked. One out of five?? Meh, all good!

     

    Thanks,

    Ron

  13. Posted

    So, today arived this:

    1118151721.jpg

    1118151722.jpg

     

    From an online site (not ending in bay) for $43.00 shipped. No power supply. I happend to have on handy with the right specs:

    1118151722b.jpg

     

     

    Tomorrow I will clean and hook it up and see if will read a disk! ;)

     

    I also got a second Gotek for my Amiga 500. Went to flash it with Cortex firmware. Connected the power up wrong and promplty fried it. DAMN!!

    Ordered a new power regulator for it. Harumph. We'll see what else got fried when the regulator comes in. :(

     

    Thanks,

    Ron

  14. Posted

    Agreed, if your PS works, no reason to do anything but use it.

    For me, I didn't have one. Mine only has one set of wires. ;)

    Power%20Supply.jpg

     

    And I put wire loom around it when done. If I needed another set of wires, one could easliy re-solder the leads back in the PS and run it to your expansion with an plug on the end. Then there would just be one PS "to rule them all". lol

     

    Thanks,

    Ron

  15. Posted

    Yea, that would be great. I have been drooling over an ACA500 for a month now. They are out of stock everywhere. And there will probably not be any more made. The word over at EAB is the new ACA500 Plus will be replacing it. It was slated to be released before the end of the year, but it's probably not going to happen, if at all, until the first quarter of next year. But one can hope? Right?

     

    Thanks,

    Ron

     

     

  16. Posted

    Hi,

    I recently scored an A500 after not having an Amiga of any type for over 25 years. So many of these questions I had to answer for myself over the last month.

     

    1). For sure get a mouse adapter. Well worth the money. The one I picked up last week allows you to move two jumpers and use it on either an Amiga or an Atari. ;)

    2). I modified an ATX power supply. Just happen to have a couple laying around.

    3). My luck with Amiga floppys has not been good. Out of the 120 or so floppys I have from "back in the day", I have not been able to get any of them to read. But I have not finished qualifiying if it is the floppy disks or the drive.

    4). Depends on what you want to use it for. If all you want to do is play disk based games and don't mind the floppy load times. Get a Gotek for sure. If you want to use WHDLoad, you are looking at adding more memory and possibly upgrading the Kickstart roms also. (also, see below)

    5). I purchased an Indivision ECS (scan doubler) from AmigaKit. It was a little pricy and requires you open up the machine, pull the Denise chip, instert it into the adapter and insert the adapter into the Denise socket. It has an RGB connector on it. I ran mine out the side expansion slot and plugged it into my 17" LCD. Works great! With a side benefit of, if you are running KS2 or higher, gives you an ECS upgrade.

    6). Easily? Not easily. But it can be done. As the poster above suggested, use a utility on your Amiga to read MS-DOS formatted floppy disks. Or use a Null-Modem cable and Amiga Explorer. There are other adapters out there as well that allow you to connect an Amiga floppy drive to your PC.

     

    Sounds like you scored well there. The SupraDrive setup, is a SupraDrive 500XP? How much ram is installed in it? Looks like it can be fitted with up to 8mb. So you might be able to use it and get away with just upgrading the KS roms. Fairly painless and not too expensive to do that and you might end up with a nice little WHDLoad machine.

     

    Thanks,

    Ron

     

    I'm an experienced Atari 8-bit user and former Atari ST guy and I just bought an Amiga 500 lot. I've always wanted an Amiga and noqw I have one (though it needs a few things before I can move forward).

     

    What I have:

     

    - Amiga 500 Computer (there is something in the expansion--I'm hoping its a 1MB upgrade)

    - SupraDrive sidecar HDD Chassis + 40MB HDD

    - Supra external floppy (seems to have some kind of Datel copier/speedup device)

    - 1080 Monitor (I also have a battered 1084)

    - Humungous power brick for the computer.

    - Handful of amiga disks

    - 100+ new never used DSDD floppies (yay!)

     

    The computer is missing the F1 key and there is no mouse.

     

    So here are my questions:

     

    1. Are the $20 mouse adapters decent or is it better to go with an Amiga mouse? If I can get an optical mouse with PS/2 protocol support I think I'd prefer that... or is it only roller mice that work?

    2. Are the old power supplies reliable enough to use? Or should I modify an ATX supply to drive the Amiga? I would test the P.S. with a voltmeter before using it no matter what

    3. Are the floppies reliable on Amigas? I've had good success with 5.25" Atari floppies but are the 3.5" ones still going to be usable? Opinions?

    4. Is there any use for the HDD? Or am I just better off to get a floppy emulator like the Gotek?

    5. Is there a good way to interface with a modern LCD monitor or TV? Or is this just as horrible as the ST? I have a 1084 and a 1080, but I'd really rather go with a modern display.

    6. Can I move files from PC to the Amiga easily? Recommendations? I guess if I get the floppy emulator that will do it but until then?

    • Like 1

  20. Posted · Edited by rfancella

    Hello All!

    First time posting, though your forum has helped me in the past modding my 2600. Thanks to all for that!

    I recently came into possesion of an Atari 1040 STf. I am a Commodore & Amiga guy from way back, so I know little to nothing of the ST series. I was assured there was nothing wrong and it was tested (a one owner machine). Well, it boots to GEM without issue. The floppy (D357) does not spin. Makes no noise other than the head.

    My question is, could the caps in question cause the drive to not spin? Or is the drive motor just toast?

    Is there anything I can test or just replace the drive and cut the case?

     

    Thanks,

    Ron

     

    PS: Just went digging through my junk pile. Found and old (but great shape) NEC FD1231H. Anyone know if I can mod it and make it work?

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