TripHammer

Do you mean that there will hopefully be a fix (switch/option/etc) for paddles that use the whole range of movement?

Excellent!

I'm beginning to understand this a little better. I'll make some closer observations and see if I can adjust the paddle source code and improve how it functions. I'm not an expert but I can tinker and figure things out. Thanks.

Would you mind enlightening me as to what it is then, please? The Retronic Adapter is re-programmable. As far as I can tell The Retronic adapter goes from 0-255. I've verified that by looking in the source code also. Edit: Found the information in the Stella Adapter User Manual. It seems that the range of the paddle is from 0-128 but it's double (normalized) to fill out a byte. So I'm not seeing anything different about the Retronic Adapter as it uses the same range??? Thanks.

I'm using the Retronic adapter and regular Atari 2600 paddles. I can see in windows, the control panel calibration, with Raw Data checked, that throughout the entire range you can turn the paddle that it does read values from 0 thorough 255 with 128 being the center. The movement is smooth also. But in Stella, it only uses a small portion of that range and it's a bit laggy even with the sensitivity turned down to 1. So it's hard to control and when your at the edge of the screen it feels like it gets stuck there briefly. My mouse works better. I tried the Z26 emulator, which feels a little better but still not good enough. Hopefully when the Stella authors work on paddle emulation again, they will provide more settings to adjust things and improve control overall.

I'm running Stella V4.6.6 and I just bought a Retronic USB adapter and configured it for the Atari 2600 Paddles. I cleaned the pots on them to eliminate jitter. I tested them in windows (10) in the joystick control panel and they respond fine. It could be a little faster but it tracks left and right as quick as I can move it with no noticeable lag. When I try and use them in Stella, only a small range of the paddles cause movement on screen and it lags making it unplayable. Lowering the digital sensitivity doesn't work as it's then slow and lags. It's just not responsive enough to be playable on the few games I tried (Breakout, Circus Atari, and especially Kaboom). Has anyone else tried this combination and got it to work and what setting do you use? Thanks all.

Exactly what I needed also. So double thanks from me too!

Ok, thanks for your help.

Yes I plan on using a 3 wire. However since the Power supply's terminals are labeled AC 1 And AC 2, it doesn't indicate which one is the Neutral terminal and which one is the Live terminal.

Quick question, I went ahead and bought a Min Dong Switching Arcade power supply off of eBay. The AC terminals are labeled AC 1 and AC 2. I googled it online but can't seem to find an answer. Which one is the Neutral and which one is the live? I know I got a 50% chance of guessing right. Thanks.

Thanks for sharing.

Will the information on how to build it ourselves be giving? I would be more interested in putting one together myself.

Thanks, Ordered one and it should be here in a few days. $16 and change with shipping isn't too bad of a deal and I'll hopefully have plenty of spare parts in the process. Thanks All!

Adam's House? Can you provide a link please? Thanks.

I also damaged my little encoder wheel. Any one have any ideas where I can get a replaement part?

I know just enough about electronics to sorta know what I'm talking about..... Anyway, on the board is the big sliver box with two holes on it. They are used to adjust the picture . You need a set of plastic adjusters to put in those holes and turn a little (you may be able to get by with a small screwdriver but they are suppose to be plastic for a reason). There's also a screw adjuster in the upper right corner that you can turn with a small screwdriver. If you fiddle with these, you may get a stable picture. I've adjusted mine so that it's halfway decent, but wish it could be better. I also replaced a broken leaf spring by fabricating a curde one out of the metal from a puddy knife. I drilled, shaped and bent it to look close to the original and used a very small copper rivet for the connection point. A little fine tuning and it works. It's a little stiffer then the original but it does work. I could probably make a better one if I try again. Hacksaw blades are also suppose to be reasonable material for making leaf springs. I went with a shiny puddy knife that was thicker and more closely looked like the original. I'm thinking of replacing the capacitors under the silver box (RF shield) to see if the picture improves. But I did get mine working (bought it on eBay listed as non working) and I'm at least happy with that.