7800fan

Looks like something made by Activision with that water reflection. Looking forward to finished version!! (subbed)

Sean Kelly is pretty well known for multicarts and runs a game store. I doubt he'd sell the sign I sold to him. All I can say is check eBay and maybe set up saved searches with email notification.

^^ bump ^^ Still looking for correct connector

$2k wow... I should have kept mine that I sold on eBay about a decade ago. Sean Kelly was the winning bidder if that matters.

Atari Lynx, used qne working, seller didn't mention Hyperdome was included in the title and didn't show in thumbnail picture so there weren't many people bidding for it. Ended up paying a smidge over $100 for the Lynx and the game. Compared to average ebay price for working Lynx, I got the game nearly free! (kinda sucked anyway)

FWIW blue ray players are no longer offered with anything out but HDMI. No more composite (for DVD), no more component, just HDMI. Been this way for a few years.

So your 10,000th post is a grave digging post?

NEs can do something like 50 colors at once but it's limited in sprites. C64 is fixed to 8 sprites and 16 colors but it's not impossible either. TG-16 might be the best one to port, over 500 colors and 16 sprites. I don't know what Apple IIGS is capable of, I only used older II and IIe with green monitor.

Lynx is based on 6502 so it is possible to port the code to other consoles including NES, TG-16, C64, and Apple II. (Atari 2600 as well but the limitation of TIA would ruin the game)

Worth as much as you are willing to pay. The price guide are sort of dumb as it's easily influenced by unusual stuff like prank bidding ($500 for loose ET?), ignorant seller ($100,000 for a Lynx game?) and often do not reflect current trend.

PMd

Just a tip, when playing Starflight 2 don't pick up any endurium. It's banned and getting caught with them can get very expensive.

With 3D printing, replacement guide is easy but where would I get a suitable 12/24 pins card edge connector? The ones I've looked at all has short pins which meant the game PCB will not reach the connector inside. I can't seem to find a connector that has long pin that would fit 2600 cart and still be able to connect to PCB. Also does someone have a 3D printable file that I can use? Something like the one used on common 4 switch console? I am trying to recreate a 2600 board from scratch with built in AV support (no more useless RF modulator), built in pause, and with option for built in controller for portable use. And built in lipo support to run it as portable or with external 5v source via USB. PS another quirk I ran into when I was designing a new 2600 board: oscillator. Atari 2600 uses 3.579575 but this is incredibly hard to find anywhere outside of Atari 2600 spare part source like Best Electronics. However 3.579545 MHz is very easy to find. After some digging, this should be fine because the difference is only 10 PPM and a typical crystal has tolerance of 20-30 PPM. Seems Atari went with the odd frequency because: 3.579545 MHz is for NTSC interlaced, and 3.579575 MHz is for NTSC noninterlaced. http://www.rennes.supelec.fr/ren/fi/elec/docs/tvnum/i852_c.pdf Atari choose noninterlaced and doubled the scans to fake 480 resolution, FWIW someone was able to produce a test ROM that can do true 480 but it used too much processing power to be of use so (AFAIK) it was never used even in newer homebrewn. Modern TV tended to be more picky about old standard, maybe using the internaced frequency crystal would make some TV work while still staying with 2600's spec?

Price have gone up a lot. Some years ago I picked up a lot with about 25 CIB games and a Sears Arcade console with 2 working controller and a boxed spare for only $20. The best game was a CIB Sears Backgammon that I sold on eBay a few years ago along with other duplicates.

Just an update... still waiting for Chinesium boat to finish paddling across Pacific Ocean to deliver the last of the parts I need. Then it's off to programming and testing each one.

I'm making them for myself, my thumbs kept falling off during rapid fire scene and I have only one controller with built in rapid fire, a Hot Stuff joystick but I don't like the fixed timing. I want variable timing and a few options so I whipped a proof of concept: as seen in Eagle The connectors are soldered directly onto PCB, not the 90 degree angled connector so it's thinner by a bit. The board measures about .95 inches by 1.15 inches and is powered by ATTiny10 the smallest Arduino compatible chip (the largest available chip is a 6 pin package that is about half a grain of rice, and also comes in even smaller UDFN package Variable resistor for range from 2 fire per second to 30 fire per second (any higher and it'd be faster than screen frame!) No mod at all, just plug inline from 2600's controller port and should work with Sega controllers as well (sorry, not for 7800 games with 7800 controller, as that'd require different wiring) 2 switches, one to turn on and off the rapid fire anytime, and one for hands-free firing so you don't need to hold the button (whether rapid fire is used or not). Ps if you're wondering why ATTiny10 instead of a classic 555 timer, the cost and power consumption are why. Digikey has ATTiny10 at 30 cents each. 555 timer starts at 37 cents each and would require 2 more parts (another resistor and a capacitor) so the final cost would have gone up a bit. And under normal operation ATTiny uses only about 30uA or roughly 1/1000th of what 555 normally draws. So that's a major perk for those with modded portable 2600 system running battery! This is still early in stage, I am still waiting on parts to finish up other projects I've started.

I'm going to add spring loaded clips so you can attach the adapter to 5v without any soldering. Thus only cosmetic mod would be needed if you wanted to mount the port for easy access. Intellivision II would still require soldering.

I've had PSIO for a long while now, I was among the lucky to get the very first batch. Yes, modding is needed because the hardware was never designed to have CD signal fed from the parallel port so a couple traces had to be cut so the PSIO can send CD signal from ISO to the hardware (and allow original CD to work when PSIO is removed) Requirement also includes PSX with parallel port so later models and PSOne can't use it. It is possible to integrate the PSIO inside but hard wiring about 50 wires correctly wouldn't be fun since Sony never made schematic available for us to figure out where's the right spot to wire in for each of the signals.

They **could** run off batteries. ATMega chip I am using are designed to work from low voltage up to 5v. I went with 5v mainly because it's available and I can't use 12v that's also available on Intellivision consoles. It runs at 8MHz and will work down to 3.3v without an issue so 3 battery packs should be fine. You'd want to wire in a switch to cut battery off when not using it. The only issue I see is controllers. Genesis pad and Jaguar pad were designed for 5v and may not want to work at lower voltage. I'd need to check to be sure it'd still work at 4.5v from 3x batteries.

eBay is stupid. Said the listing is no longer available and offered "similar" item, a Sega Genesis 3 system with a few games. Genesis 3 can't even play SMS games with adapter.

More likely there's excess noise and ripple on DC power causing glitches. Plus 40 years old cap... those are cheap to replace with good quality caps.

Must rob a bank to get money. Out of money for this week and the coupon ends a few hours before my next payday so I'm already missing some deal.